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DIY Gear Swap - Step by Step Pic's - Rubicon 4.88

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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Revolution is showing 6-10 thou for backlash in the paperwork that came with the gears and also online in their tech section. The carrier bearing possibly being the culprit of my noise could be true since I have beat the carrier in and out around 30 times total. The amount of force that it has taken to get the flange on enough with a dead blow to see a couple of threads was a surprise as well. It’s possible I have trashed the pinion or tail bearing.
What were all of your figures?
  1. Pinion Etch coming out?
  2. Pinion Etch going in?
  3. Pinion shim coming out?
  4. Pinion shim going in?
  5. Did you replace all the bearings and races?
  6. PTTR?
  7. Carrier shim? I read you used the same shims that came out. I can tell you that I have never been able to do that when changing gears.
  8. Backlash should be around .003-.006. You can get away with .009 on a new set of gears. Anything less than .003 is too tight and the oil will not do its job for shock loading and heat control.
  9. TTTR?
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JeepBaty

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Pinion etch coming out I read as 0 after reading through the thread and learning it’s the lower left number. I will add a picture just to be sure.
The new pinion going in had the number 95 on the head which I think correlated with the 95 that was on the ring gear and also the number 3.597 on the new head.
Factory pinion shim was .050 and new shim was .054
All bearings and races were replaced with the ones from the master install kit which were koyo branded.
Rotational pinion torque was 16in/lb.
Driver side carrier shim was .075 and passenger side was .090 they did not slide in by hand and required a couple light taps using a flat headed screw driver to seat all the way in the cups.
Total rotational torque with the carrier installed was 26in/lb.
Jeep Wrangler JL DIY Gear Swap - Step by Step Pic's - Rubicon 4.88 IMG_6015
 
 



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