DIY Gear Swap - Step by Step ('ish) Writeup - Rubicon Dana 4.88 Gears

  1. chevymitchell

    chevymitchell Well-Known Member

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    #1 Mar 1, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019 at 12:55 PM
    I just finished swapping my factory Rubi gears for a set of DANA 4.88's.

    Here's is a step by step guide to do the swap yourself. This is a quick list I threw together. This is by no means a replacement for a maintenance manual, however, my goal was to relieve some of the pressure that comes with never doing a set of gears yourself. I've done many gear sets over the years and I will say, using DANA parts really made this a out and back in job. Hope this write-up helps you guys out there. If you have any questions, please ask.

    Thank you.

    References:

    DANA 44 4.88 Axle Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/dana-44-advantek-specs-for-4-88-re-gear.22854/

    Complete TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/


    1. Inventory Parts.


    IMG_0169.JPG

    2. Tools Required:
    a. 0-60 in/lb TQ Wrench
    b. Bearing Race/Seal Installer
    c. Carrier/Pinion Bearing Remover
    d. Hydraulic Press
    e. Plastic Bags (Keeping track of all HDWR)
    f. Sharpe
    g. 1/2” Impact
    h. Socket for lug nuts (22mm and special socket for my Beadlocks)
    i. 21mm Wrench
    j. 10mm Wrench
    k. 1/4" Ratchet
    l. 1/4" Extension (6”)
    m. 3/8” Drive 10mm
    n. 3/8” Ratchet
    o. 3/8” Drive Extension (3”)
    p. 1/2” Drive 21mm
    q. 1/2” Drive Extension (6”)
    r. 1/2" Ratchet
    s. Plastic pry tool (Flathead screwdriver will work, not recommended)
    t. 5 Gal Bucket (Oil receptacle)
    u. Rubber Mallet
    v. 2 1/2 lb. Sledge Hammer
    w. 1/2" Drive T30
    x. 1/2" Drive 36mm Socket
    y. 5mm Allen Key/Socket
    z. 1/2" Drive 13mm, 12 point socket
    aa. 15mm Wrench
    bb. 3/8” Drive 15mm socket
    cc. Flashlight
    dd. Body clip removal tool (Metal or Plastic)
    ee. 1/2" drive 15mm socket
    ff. Small Pry Bar
    gg. 2 flathead screwdrivers (removal of the inner axle shaft clip)
    hh. Caliper
    ii. 1/2" drive 32mm socket
    jj. 3 Jaw puller (Wide enough for flange)
    kk. Punch
    ll. Brass drift
    mm. Dial Indicator ( .001” increments)
    nn. 1/2” Drive T50

    Here's an example of what I used. (Not complete)

    IMG_0258.JPG

    3. Consumables Required
    a. Rags
    b. Large Zip Ties/Bungee Cords (For hanging calipers)
    c. Paint Pens
    d. Gear Oil


    FRONT AXLE

    1. Raise vehicle.
    2. Remove Wheels/Tires.

    IMG_0168.JPG

    3. Using 21mm and 10mm wrench, remove Tie Rod from Driver’s Side knuckle.

    IMG_0170.JPG

    4. Drain Differential. If your drain plug is destroyed from wheeling like mine is, go to step 5.
    5. Using 10mm socket, remove diff covers. Remove lower half of the bolts first. Loosen the top half of the bolts. Gently tap plastic pry tool into the side of the diff cover to drain.

    IMG_0172.JPG
    IMG_0173.JPG
    IMG_0175.JPG

    6. Turn the Passenger side knuckle to the left to access Caliper mount bolts
    7. Using 21mm socket, remove both bolts holding on Caliper. Hang Caliper by opening in frame.
    8. Turn the Driver’s side knuckle to the right to access Caliper mounting bolts.
    9. Using 21mm socket, remove both bolts holding on Caliper. Hang Caliper by opening in frame.

    IMG_0176.JPG

    10. Using a T30 remove the rotor retention bolt.
    11. Remove Brake Rotors
    12. Using 36mm Socket, remove axle nut.
    13. Using a 10mm socket, remove rotor dust shields from both sides.
    14. Using a 5mm Allen Key/Socket, remove the ABS sensor from both knuckles.

    IMG_0177.JPG
    IMG_0178.JPG

    15. Using a 13mm, 12 point socket, loosen and back out the 3 bolts holding the hub bearing assembly to the knuckle. Back the out 3/4 of the way. Do this for both sides.
    16. Place the 13mm socket over the bolt and tap with a hammer/mallet. Do this to all 3 bolts to loosen the hub bearing. Once loose, remove all 3 bolts and remove the hub bearing assembly. Do this for both sides.
    17. Remove Driver side axle shaft.
    18. Remove Passenger side axle shaft.

    IMG_0179.JPG
    IMG_0180.JPG
    IMG_0181.JPG
    IMG_0182.JPG

    19. Set Transfer Case into 4H
    20. Set Parking Brake
    21. Using a 15mm wrench/15mm socket, Remove the Front Driveshaft bolts (Axle End)
    22. Disconnect the drive shaft from the differential and zip tie it to the upper control arm.

    IMG_0183.JPG
    IMG_0184.JPG

    23. Using a 10mm socket/wrench, remove the 4 bolts holding on the FAD skid plate.
    24. Disconnect FAD connector.
    25. Using body clip tool, disconnect FAD connector harness Christmas tree.
    26. Have your bucket/oil catch can ready. The FAD portion of the axle tube holds a small amount of oil.
    27. Using a 13mm socket, remove the 4 bolts holding on the FAD motor.
    28. Remove FAD motor.
    29. Remove collar.

    IMG_0185.JPG
    IMG_0187.JPG
    IMG_0188.JPG
    IMG_0189.JPG

    30. Slide inner axle shaft out enough to expose the large C-Clip.
    31. Using two flat head screwdrivers, remove C-Clip. (This take some finesse. Have patience)
    32. Slide inner shaft out until it clears the differential bearing.

    IMG_0190.JPG
    IMG_0191.JPG

    33. Disconnect front locker connector.
    34. Using a 10mm, remove the bolt holding the locker connector to the housing.
    35. Pull the feedthrough out of the housing.
    36. Disconnect feedthrough connector.
    37. Push locker harness back into housing.

    IMG_0193.JPG
    IMG_0192.JPG

    38. Have rags ready as everything is going to come out covered in oil.
    39. Remove diff bearing cap bolts.
    40. Remove bearing caps. (Take note of the arrow on each cap. Arrows point outwards.)
    41. Rotate Differential down slightly and pull locker harness connector out the front
    42. Using a small pry bar, remove differential. Do not pry on locker solenoid. Use ring gear teeth and/or ring gear bolts. A lot pressure is not required. Be careful as the carrier assembly is heavy.
    43. Clean shims.
    44. Using a caliper, take note of the shim thicknesses used with factory ring and pinion.
    45. Discard diff bearing cups.

    IMG_0194.JPG
    IMG_0195.JPG
    IMG_0196.JPG
    IMG_0197.JPG
    IMG_0198.JPG
    IMG_0200.JPG

    46. Using a 32mm, remove the pinion nut and washer.
    47. Using a 3 Jaw Puller, remove flange.
    48. Using the 2 1/2 lb. sledge hammer, hit the pinion shaft to push it out of the tail bearing. Be ready to catch the pinion. It will fall out.
    49. Using a small pry bar, remove pinion seal.
    50. Remove tail bearing.
    51. Using a punch and 2 1/2lb. sledge, remove tail bearing cup. Align punch with cup from inside the housing. You will see a notch (Oil Galley). Place punch here. Hit the punch a little at a time while swapping from top to bottom on every other hit.
    52. Using a punch and a 2 1/2lb. sledge, remove pinion bearing cup. Align punch with cup from outside the housing. You will see a notch (Oil Galley). Place punch here. Hit the punch a little at a time while swapping from top to bottom on every other hit. Be careful not to damage the pinion bearing shim.
    53. Clean and inspect the housing.

    IMG_0201.JPG IMG_0202.JPG IMG_0203.JPG IMG_0204.JPG IMG_0205.JPG IMG_0206.JPG IMG_0207.JPG

    54. Measure the pinion bearing shim.
    a. Mine was .044”
    b. New shim pack comes with a .034” and a .010”. I just used these two in place of the original. My original was damaged during removal.
    55. Install pinion depth shim under pinion bearing race.
    56. During the next two steps; if the race doesn’t go in straight, use the brass drift to tap in the race until it straight. Once straight, go back to using the bearing race installation tool.
    57. Using the bearing race installation tool, tap in the new pinion bearing race.
    58. Using the bearing race installation tool, tap in the new tail bearing race.
    59. Place the tail bearing in the cup.
    60. Using the seal installation tool, tap in the new pinion seal.
    a. If your seal installation kit doesn’t have a tool big enough, use the old pinion bearing race in conjunction with the seal installation tool.

    IMG_0209.JPG IMG_0210.JPG IMG_0211.JPG IMG_0215.JPG IMG_0216.JPG IMG_0212.JPG IMG_0214.JPG
    IMG_0221.JPG

    61. Make sure you’re using the parts from “Front” bearing kit.
    62. Using a hydraulic press, install new pinion bearing onto pinion. Make sure to press this on in the right direction. This bearing is a press-to-stop installation. Ensure there is no gap between the bottom of the pinion head and the bearing.
    63. Slide the crush sleeve on the pinion with the flat base towards the pinion head.
    64. Slide the pinion assembly into the housing and into the tail bearing.
    65. Hold the companion flange square and tap around the flange lightly to start the pinion shaft evenly.
    66. Hold the pinion with your left hand and tap the companion flange on far enough to grab at least 2 threads with the old pinion nut.
    67. Tighten the pinion nut until you have enough threads to use the washer and old pinion nut at the same time.
    68. Tighten the old pinion nut until the shaft is 2 threads from the outside edge of the old nut.
    69. Remove old nut and install new nut with old washer.
    70. Tighten until there is no up and down or in and out movement of the pinion. Do NOT over-tighten.
    71. Once, there’s no movement. Take your first Torque to Rotate reading. Refer to the info at the end of this post. (Keep in mind, that info is specific for 4.88’s)
    72. If outside of the specification, continue tightening until you are within spec. This won’t take much movement of the nut. If you go outside the tolerance high, you might be able to back the nut off just a hair to get it into spec. If you back the nut off and there’s too much movement, you will need to disassemble and replace the crush sleeve.

    IMG_0222.JPG IMG_0223.JPG IMG_0224.JPG IMG_0225.JPG IMG_0226.JPG IMG_0229.JPG

    73. Using the bearing removal tool, remove the carrier bearings from the differential. If you do not have a bearing removal tool for the smaller carrier bearing, you can use a dremel to cut the cage off. Once you have the cage and bearings removed, cut the inner portion of the bearing at a steep angle as to not damage the locker solenoid. Once you’ve cut through approximately half the material thickness, use a sharpened chisel and hit it once with the 2 1/2lb. sledge. This will crack the bearing and it will slide right off.
    74. Remove locker solenoid.
    75. Remove locker solenoid spacer.
    76. Mark the glide plate in two places. One with an X and the other with an O. This is just in case one of the marks gets erased by accident. I used a Sharpe.
    77. Using a 15mm, remove the ring gear bolts. Leave 2 of the bolts in about 1/4 of the way.
    78. Using a brass drift, place the drift on the outside edge of the ring and tap with the 2 1/2lb sledge. The ring will fall, but the 2 bolts will catch it.
    79. Remove the ring gear.
    80. Discard ring gear bolts. The new gear set should come with new bolts containing yellow Loctite.
    81. Thoroughly clean and inspect the differential. If you cut the small carrier bearing off, you’ll want to make sure you don’t have any metal debris anywhere in the differential.
    82. Using a 15mm, install the new 4.88 ring gear to differential using the new bolts. Be sure to run the bolts down in a crisscross pattern with a ratchet. Do not use an impact until the ring gear is full seated all the way around. TQ per the info at the end of this post.
    83. Using the hydraulic press, install new carrier load bearing (Large one). If you don’t have anything the right size to press on the new bearing without damaging the cage, cut the cage off the old bearing and use the inner race to press on new bearing. Press to stop.
    84. Install glide plate. Ensure to line up the marks made previously. Also, ensure all 3 tabs are above the fixed plate. (2 triangles and 1 rectangular tab)
    85. Install Locker Solenoid Spacer.
    86. Install Locker Solenoid. Make sure to line up the sensor and the pick-up on the plate. There are 3 small alignment tabs on the plate. These will go to the outside of the solenoid.
    87. Using the hydraulic press, install new carrier bearing (Small one). If you don’t have anything the right size to press on the new bearing without damaging the cage, cut the cage off the old bearing and use the inner race to press on new bearing. Press to stop.

    IMG_0230.JPG IMG_0231.JPG IMG_0232.JPG IMG_0233.JPG IMG_0237.JPG IMG_0238.JPG IMG_0239.JPG IMG_0240.JPG IMG_0241.JPG IMG_0242.JPG

    88. Inspect the passenger side axle tube for extra RTV. If there is any, trim it back so the shim and bearing cup will slide in properly.

    IMG_0243.JPG

    89. Clean the bearing cups, shims, bearing cup mounts, and bearing caps. Make sure there isn’t any debris on any mounting surface.
    90. Install Differential into the house. My Pinion was a zero etch, so I’m going to start with the original shim sizes.
    91. Feed the locker solenoid feedthrough connector through the hole in the housing. You will not be able to do this once the cap is installed.
    92. Using a 15mm, Install bearing caps. Ensure the arrows point outwards. Also, be sure the stop plate is under the driver’s side bearing cap bolts. Align the pin on the solenoid with the opening in the stop plate. Do not use an impact to install these.
    93. Using a soft mallet, tap on the ring gear with force to ensure the bearings are seated in the housing.
    94. Using a 15mm, TQ the bearing cap bolts to spec. See chart at the end for the specs.
    95. Using a dial indicator, measure your backlash. Be sure to mount the indicator where you can get onto the outside edge of the gear straight on. See spec chart for spec. Mine was right on at .005”. Too much backlash, adjust shims to move ring gear closer to pinion. Not enough backlash, adjust shims to move ring gear away from pinion.
    96. Using the In/lb TQ Wrench, measure Total TQ to Rotate. See chart for specs

    IMG_0244.JPG IMG_0245.JPG IMG_0246.JPG IMG_0247.JPG

    97. Using a 10mm, install Locker Connector into housing. TQ to spec.
    98. Slide the intermediate shaft into the differential.
    99. Install C-Clip. Ensure it’s installed all the way.
    100. Install FAD Collar.
    101. Install Passenger Side Axle shaft.
    102. Slide collar all the way to thr right.
    103. Using a 13mm, Install FAD Motor. TQ to spec.
    104. Connector FAD Motor.
    105. Using a 10mm, install the FAD Skid Plate.
    106. Install Driver Side Axle Shaft.
    107. Using a 13mm, install the Driver’s Side Hub Bearing Assembly. Make sure the ABS Sensor mounting location is pointed up and FWD. TQ to spec.
    108. Using a 5mm Allen, install wheel speed sensor. Ensure it is clean before installation. TQ to spec.
    109. Using a 10mm, install the Front Diff Cover. (I’m using the DANA covers. They come with new, 10mm HDWR) TQ to Spec.
    110. Using a 10mm and 21mm, install Tie Rod to Passenger side knuckle. TQ to Spec.
    111. Using a 13mm, install the Passenger Side Hub Bearing Assembly. Make sure the ABS Sensor mounting location is pointed up and FWD. TQ to spec.
    112. Using a 5mm Allen, install wheel speed sensor. Ensure it is clean before installation. TQ to spec.
    113. Using a 10mm, install the Passenger side brake dust shield. TQ to spec.
    114. Using a 10mm, install the Driver’s Side brake dust shield. TQ to spec.
    115. Using a 15mm, install the front driveshaft. TQ to Spec.
    116. Using a 36mm, install the Driver’s Side Axle Nut. TQ to spec.
    117. Using a T30, install the brake rotors.
    118. Using 21mm, install brake rotors.
    119. Install wheels and tires.

    IMG_0248.JPG IMG_0249.JPG IMG_0250.JPG IMG_0251.JPG IMG_0252.JPG IMG_0253.JPG IMG_0254.JPG IMG_0255.JPG IMG_0257.JPG


    REAR AXLE

    1. Using an 8mm, remove the ABS Sensors from both sides.
    2. Using an 18mm, remove the brake calipers from both sides. Use large zip ties and hang them from the frame.
    3. Using a T50, remove the rear drive shaft. Hang it with a bungee strap from the rear frame tie.
    4. Drain Differential. If your drain plug is destroyed from wheeling like mine is, go to step 5.
    5. Using 10mm socket, remove diff cover. Remove lower half of the bolts first. Loosen the top half of the bolts. Gently tap plastic pry tool into the side of the diff cover to drain.
    6. Set Parking Brake.
    7. Using 2 vise-grips, hold parking brake pins close to the hub assembly.
    8. Lower the Parking Brake handle all the way down.
    9. Remove Parking brake cables from the eyes on both sides.
    10. Using an 18mm, remove the nuts holding the rear axle/hub assembly to the axle tube.
    11. Using a T30, remove the Rotors.
    12. Remove axle shaft assembly about 25% of the way out. If the Axle shaft assembly does not want to move easily, follow these steps:
    a. Turn rotor backwards and install on the hub studs.
    b. Install 2 lug nuts half way.
    c. Use rotor as a slide hammer to remove axle shaft.
    13. Disconnect Locker plug.
    14. Using a 10mm, remove the Locker plug feedthrough.
    15. Disconnect Locker Connector from the feedthrough.
    16. Push Locker connector into housing.

    IMG_0259.JPG IMG_0260.JPG IMG_0261.JPG IMG_0262.JPG IMG_0263.JPG IMG_0264.JPG IMG_0265.JPG IMG_0266.JPG IMG_0267.JPG

    Repeat steps from front axle for replacing bearings, pinion, ring gear, and the re-installation of the differential.

    Take a look at the last 2 pictures for a tip on how to torque the ring gear bolts because they are a PIA if you don't have the right tooling. You can manually engage the locker by pushing in the small tabs on the bottom of te carrier assembly and then torque all the bolts with no issue like this.

    IMG_0268.JPG IMG_0269.JPG IMG_0270.JPG IMG_0271.JPG IMG_0272.JPG IMG_0273.JPG IMG_0274.JPG IMG_0275.JPG IMG_0276.JPG IMG_0277.JPG IMG_0278.JPG IMG_0279.JPG IMG_0280.JPG IMG_0281.JPG IMG_0289.JPG IMG_0290.JPG
     
  2. Moto_21

    Moto_21 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome write up and pictures man! Good work
     
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  3. rustyshakelford

    rustyshakelford Well-Known Member

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    Heck of a write up. We love our 5.13s and agree the Dana spicer gears are very easy to set up.

    Brett
     
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  4. Sean L

    Sean L Well-Known Member

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    Excellent journal!
     
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  5. UNC Rubicon

    UNC Rubicon Well-Known Member

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    Hell yeah dude!

    Time to start doing gear swaps for the community.
     
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  6. MotoMax

    MotoMax Well-Known Member

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    Outstanding Write Up!
    The write up and posting all the pictures alone must have taken nearly as long as changing out the gear sets.
    No way would I attempt this in my carport underneath my house! How I miss having a shop.
     
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  7. OP
    OP
    chevymitchell

    chevymitchell Well-Known Member

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    Haha...Yes.

    Between taking pics, writing things down, DANA having the wrong bearing in the rear Mast Kit, and my Vehicle Battery having a bad cell... I probably could have done 2 sets of gears.
     
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  8. rizej

    rizej Well-Known Member

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    I know this is something I'll never be trying to do in my apartment's underground garage but this is the most impressive, detailed and organized write up I have seen for anything on this site. Good work :jk:
     
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  9. b1er

    b1er Well-Known Member

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    Black tape band-aid fail... man card revoked...

















    Man card returned for doing your own gear install... carry on!
     
  10. OP
    OP
    chevymitchell

    chevymitchell Well-Known Member

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    I’m also vaccinated... Haha!
     
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  11. Z J West

    Z J West Well-Known Member

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    what's the pattern look like?
     
  12. OP
    OP
    chevymitchell

    chevymitchell Well-Known Member

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    Sorry man. I didn’t grab pictures of the compound. I thought about taking the covers back off for the purpose of this post, but nah. Both patterns looked great, as expected. I used Prussian Blue instead of conventional marking compound.
     
  13. Jondrew

    Jondrew Well-Known Member

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    You lost me after you drained the fluid out
     
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  14. Sting_NC_USA

    Sting_NC_USA Well-Known Member

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    AMAZING write-up. Huge benefit to the community. Thanks man!
     
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  15. islandtees

    islandtees Well-Known Member

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    Great write up, except I didn't see you paint the gears for wear pattern?
     
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