Sponsored

Ditch the 0w-20 before its too late.

TheRaven

Well-Known Member
First Name
Kevin
Joined
Oct 22, 2020
Threads
5
Messages
1,503
Reaction score
2,026
Location
Reading, Pennsylvania
Vehicle(s)
2021 JLU 80th
Occupation
Electrical, Mechanical, and Aerospace Engineering.
Because it's informative. Even if you don't agree.

.
Yeah, mis-informative.

Don't get me wrong, there are things to be learned here, but they're the side conversations....and those aren't the problem. The problem is the main debate.
 

zyt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Threads
9
Messages
379
Reaction score
268
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
Mazda Miata
It’s very informative and interesting to read this thread for sure.
I’m going to switch to 5w30 this weekend because my engine has been noticeably noisy and developed some ticking sound. This is just my effort of trying different things.
When switching, should I Jack up the front to drain all 0w20 out before putting in 5w30? My understanding is there might be another quart of oil at the bottom of the pan. Wondering if it’s ok to mix.
@UncleJimmy
 
OP
OP

DaltonGang

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2018
Threads
74
Messages
2,836
Reaction score
3,987
Location
Houston, Tx
Vehicle(s)
2018 Wrangler JLU Sport S, Rubicon Suspension, Tires, and Rims. Firecracker Red
It’s very informative and interesting to read this thread for sure.
I’m going to switch to 5w30 this weekend because my engine has been noticeably noisy and developed some ticking sound. This is just my effort of trying different things.
When switching, should I Jack up the front to drain all 0w20 out before putting in 5w30? My understanding is there might be another quart of oil at the bottom of the pan. Wondering if it’s ok to mix.
@UncleJimmy
I have a Fumoto Valve, so draining is easy. I get the engine good and warm, let it sit for 10 or so minutes, while getting things ready, and flip the valve open. I just let it drain, until it is just dripping. It doesn't take long when the oil is warm. I usually just change the filter while the oil is draining. I've never jacked the front end up.
Let us know how it sounds, after the change.
 

zyt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Threads
9
Messages
379
Reaction score
268
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
Mazda Miata
I have a Fumoto Valve, so draining is easy. I get the engine good and warm, let it sit for 10 or so minutes, while getting things ready, and flip the valve open. I just let it drain, until it is just dripping. It doesn't take long when the oil is warm. I usually just change the filter while the oil is draining. I've never jacked the front end up.
Let us know how it sounds, after the change.
Fumoto Valve is awesome! I have one with the tube which I put it directly in an empty 5 qt jug. Zero mess every change!

My question is more towards what to do when putting in different grade of oil for the first time (switching from 0W20 to 5W30) should I try to get the last drop of the old 0W20 out? I believe there will be a bit of oil remain if jeep is parked on a level ground. This is not a concern if I just putting in the same grade of oil.
 

Sponsored

OrneryBear

Well-Known Member
First Name
Charles
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Threads
2
Messages
821
Reaction score
1,059
Location
Carroll, OH
Vehicle(s)
23 Sarge JLUR 6spd
Fumoto Valve is awesome! I have one with the tube which I put it directly in an empty 5 qt jug. Zero mess every change!

My question is more towards what to do when putting in different grade of oil for the first time (switching from 0W20 to 5W30) should I try to get the last drop of the old 0W20 out? I believe there will be a bit of oil remain if jeep is parked on a level ground. This is not a concern if I just putting in the same grade of oil.
You're over thinking it, just put the thing on level ground and change your oil.
 

roaniecowpony

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Threads
148
Messages
7,428
Reaction score
9,684
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
2018 JLUR, 14 GMC 1500 CC All TERRAIN
Occupation
Retired Engineer
Fumoto Valve is awesome! I have one with the tube which I put it directly in an empty 5 qt jug. Zero mess every change!

My question is more towards what to do when putting in different grade of oil for the first time (switching from 0W20 to 5W30) should I try to get the last drop of the old 0W20 out? I believe there will be a bit of oil remain if jeep is parked on a level ground. This is not a concern if I just putting in the same grade of oil.
if you let it sit for an hour after running it, about all of the oil in the main galleys and filter/cooler will back drain out through the pump. Probably takes less time. I always let things cool down anyway. I haven't been in a position where I needed to change the oil in a hurry with this jeep. Might happen. But if you're too soon after running it, the filter could still have some oil in it when you crack it open, making it a bit drippy or worse, it may still be full of oil and you leak oil everywhere down into the valley.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zyt

jav_eee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2023
Threads
3
Messages
207
Reaction score
209
Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
might get a 2018 JL Rubicon
My question is more towards what to do when putting in different grade of oil for the first time (switching from 0W20 to 5W30) should I try to get the last drop of the old 0W20 out?
You'll "change" the viscosity a bit, for super simple explanation lets say one quart of each would get you a 2.5w25 maybe? I'm not sure on the exact math but there is no issue with not removing all of the 0w20.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zyt

zyt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Threads
9
Messages
379
Reaction score
268
Location
Maryland
Vehicle(s)
Mazda Miata
Thanks for everyone's input. I agree there is no need to overthink it. :)
 

Sponsored

UncleJimmy

Well-Known Member
First Name
James
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
205
Reaction score
135
Location
AZ
Vehicle(s)
2020 JLUR; 2016 Toyota Tundra
It’s very informative and interesting to read this thread for sure.
I’m going to switch to 5w30 this weekend because my engine has been noticeably noisy and developed some ticking sound. This is just my effort of trying different things.
When switching, should I Jack up the front to drain all 0w20 out before putting in 5w30? My understanding is there might be another quart of oil at the bottom of the pan. Wondering if it’s ok to mix.
@UncleJimmy
If you have a ticking sound you will want to get it diagnosed ASAP. If you wait, the repair will get much more expensive (the roller/rockers will eat the cam lobes. I think the cams are $600 for a pair per engine bank).

No issues with changing viscosity. But do drain all the old oil out for each oil change (see below).

I and others who have looked into this see some real positives running a 0w40 or similar (depending on ambient temps), but that's your call. Do whatever makes you comfortable.

You're over thinking it, just put the thing on level ground and change your oil.
In my humble opinion, there are factors if not taken into consideration, will cause at least 10% of the old oil to still remain in the engine.

First, like other things in the owners manual, some capacities are wrong (such as the reserve fuel capacity). The actual capacity of the 3.6l engine is 5.5 qts, not 5. If you want all of the oil drained, the front end needs to be on ramps or some other incline. That accounts for .5 qt or about 10% of the oil capacity. (In addition, if the engine has been using the standard oil with the long OCI, there may be some sludge in the engine/oil pan which will further reduce oil capacity and oil flow. I ran Seafoam in the crankcase for 300 mi to clean this out, possibly further increasing actual oil capacity.)

Secondly, because of the design of the oil filter, there is a "kind" of anti-drain function which holds some oil (not in the filter itself but sealed by the small O ring on the tip), and because of ESS design for the PUG the galleries are slow to drain. So, if someone goes to the dealer, waits in line, fills out the paper work, by the time the tech actually gets to the vehicle, the engine will not be hot, they will not angle the front, and they will not wait for the galleries to drain fully and the engine will be left with .5 qt of old oil from the oil pan not fully drained, and perhaps another .25 qt from cold engine and not waiting for galleries and filter housing to drain fully. I drain my motor on ramps on a hot engine and wait at least an hour for all the oil to drain.

On my regular drive, I pass by the Toyota dealership and see a line of late model Jeeps in the front sales lot. This tells me there are quite a few Jeep owners who were unfortunately dissatisfied with their experience. There are quite a few points in owning a Jeep that if addressed, could take it from a fair to good ownership experience:

  • Random problems with electrical systems (Delete AUX battery)
  • Increased engine wear and rocker/cam issues (Deactivate ESS; Use good/low volatility oil; Increase oil viscosity; increase OCIs; Drain all the old oil; oil and engine bay temperature control to prevent lowering engine oil viscosity and multiple heat cycles effecting oil cooler and other plastics; Occasional WOT driving to increase oil in valve guides and to burn off carbon)
  • Engine knocking; horsepower loss and poor fuel economy (Reduce carbon build-up with: Catch can; Seafoam treatments; increased cooling and viscosity of engine oil to prevent oil vaporization/consumption through intake manifold; using only top-tier fuels)
  • Engine overheating (fan control modules/Fan control - Tazer, RPM etc; Venting hood)
  • Jeep security (Anti-theft)
These things are not that hard to do, but do take some research and analysis.

Oil viscosity (and correlated volatility) effects much more than just wear, and since viscosity is temperature dependent, addressing cooling in conjunction with engine oil selection effects several issues downstream.
 
Last edited:

UncleJimmy

Well-Known Member
First Name
James
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
205
Reaction score
135
Location
AZ
Vehicle(s)
2020 JLUR; 2016 Toyota Tundra
OP
OP

DaltonGang

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2018
Threads
74
Messages
2,836
Reaction score
3,987
Location
Houston, Tx
Vehicle(s)
2018 Wrangler JLU Sport S, Rubicon Suspension, Tires, and Rims. Firecracker Red
Any thoughts on the Dexos ratings with newer oils??
Specifically: Dexos1-Gen2 vs. Dexos1-Gen3.
 

UncleJimmy

Well-Known Member
First Name
James
Joined
Mar 22, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
205
Reaction score
135
Location
AZ
Vehicle(s)
2020 JLUR; 2016 Toyota Tundra
Any thoughts on the Dexos ratings with newer oils??
Specifically: Dexos1-Gen2 vs. Dexos1-Gen3.
I have read the Dexos 1 Gen 3 is an attempt to improve on low-speed pre-ignition problems effecting turbo gas direct injection engines.

Wether or not one is better depends on the specific selection of oil formulation.
Sponsored

 
 



Top