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Diesel Lift Kit?

Robbyreneeward

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I spoke with Evo when the first 2.5” kit for diesel rolled out and they said it was 2.5” over the stock rubicon diesel which is already 1” higher than the 2.0 and 3.6 rubicon.
So does this mean the 4.5” is 5.5” higher than a 2.0 and 3.6 rubicon?
IDK
Good question. Mine is a sport model. I’m assuming I’ll need the 4.5” vs 2.5. Wonder why they didn’t produce a 3.5”.
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xtremejoe

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If I could get some assistance from someone on measurements for a Diesel Rubicon that has not been lifted yet.

I am building this Jeep in reverse of what I have done in previous builds. All my bumpers, rock rails, overland gear before I do suspension and tire. Will do that last and get it dialed in for my specific needs.

Because I am an idiot, I did my measurements off the stock bumpers (which have since been removed) so I have no valid measurements. Not sure what I was thinking.

Could someone please give me the ground to tire fenders (I'm guessing this is best apples to apples) measurements of a stock diesel rubicon for the front and rear.

This is a heavy overland build that will probably be pushing 6K pounds so wonder what my stock sag is to help with my the lift I will put in (as an aside leaning to a RK 3.5" diesel specific lift or maybe 4.5" depending on my sag). The rear with fridge/slide, stove, extra water, 2nd battery and gas is 250-300lbs, so I'm not having the front end issues that some have. Even with 12k winch and bumper.

Thanks everyone!
 

Quick

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Received the AEV Diesel 2.5 Lift Kit 12/24 and got installed over the weekend. This rig rides better than stock! Very Happy. Definitely taller than 2.5”(no I did take measurements as I forgot in my anx) Be for warned, the passenger side upper control arm bolt to frame will not come out without A LOT of loosening brackets on diesel particulate filter/exhaust!!!
I installed an AEV lift this weekend on my son's JLURD. You're 100% right about that bolt. Spent a good hour on it. Eventually just decided to bend the heat shielding on the filter and force the bolt out. Sucked, but got it out.

The lift is awesome - rides great and feels as good or better than stock. Can't wait to install it on my Rubi next.
 

AdvEddie

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Definitely interested in some real world opinions of folks running the AEV kit with heavy loads. As far as heavy loads I mean multi-day overloading trips with full gear (fridge, all the camping stuff, water etc) PLUS a roof top tent, winch, bumpers etc.

It ends up being quite a bit of weight overall and I want to make sure the AEV is tuned for that not just a cheap way to lift your Jeep.

Really would like to understand how it performs loaded. They claim this is what it is designed for but anyone install it and have this use case yet?
 

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Definitely interested in some real world opinions of folks running the AEV kit with heavy loads. As far as heavy loads I mean multi-day overloading trips with full gear (fridge, all the camping stuff, water etc) PLUS a roof top tent, winch, bumpers etc.

It ends up being quite a bit of weight overall and I want to make sure the AEV is tuned for that not just a cheap way to lift your Jeep.

Really would like to understand how it performs loaded. They claim this is what it is designed for but anyone install it and have this use case yet?
I'm into overloading ... errr.... umm... I mean overlanding and I plan to put these triple rate springs to the test. I measured rear axle before and after install (empty). I took measurements from bolt to bolt on shocks and from top of tire to bottom of fender rear only.

I'm adding 37's this week so the tire to fender gap measurements arent much help. It increased my lift by 2.25" with the stock 35's
 

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AdvEddie

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I'm into overloading ... errr.... umm... I mean overlanding and I plan to put these triple rate springs to the test. I measured rear axle before and after install (empty). I took measurements from bolt to bolt on shocks and from top of tire to bottom of fender rear only.

I'm adding 37's this week so the tire to fender gap measurements arent much help. It increased my lift by 2.25" with the stock 35's
Cool, did you have any optional gear (racks, bumpers etc) prior to install?
 

Overland Productions

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Cool, did you have any optional gear (racks, bumpers etc) prior to install?
No, it's all stock right now. Actually, I take that back. I removed the rear seats and installed the Goose Gear stealth package. I did a video on Youtube and weighed everything. It's 26lbs lighter than factory.
 

AdvEddie

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No, it's all stock right now. Actually, I take that back. I removed the rear seats and installed the Goose Gear stealth package. I did a video on Youtube and weighed everything. It's 26lbs lighter than factory.
Well if you are lighter than stock and dont even get the full 2.5" then I am not optimistic about all the weight I am already carrying plus what I plan to add. Bummer...
 

Overland Productions

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Well if you are lighter than stock and dont even get the full 2.5" then I am not optimistic about all the weight I am already carrying plus what I plan to add. Bummer...
Let me check the bolt to bolt measurement on the shock. I didnt do that after the lift was installed.

Also, I have a Rubicon. It already has a 1" lift (or better with diesel?) from factory. A sport or sahara would have at least another inch in lift for 3.25 or more.
 

AdvEddie

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Let me check the bolt to bolt measurement on the shock. I didnt do that after the lift was installed.

Also, I have a Rubicon. It already has a 1" lift (or better with diesel?) from factory. A sport or sahara would have at least another inch in lift for 3.25 or more.
I have a diesel rubicon as well.
 

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Overland Productions

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Well if you are lighter than stock and dont even get the full 2.5" then I am not optimistic about all the weight I am already carrying plus what I plan to add. Bummer...
Update. I got 7cm or 2.75 inches lift on the rear shock bolt measurements.. this is the measurement that really matters.
 

40”JLURD

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If I could get some assistance from someone on measurements for a Diesel Rubicon that has not been lifted yet.

I am building this Jeep in reverse of what I have done in previous builds. All my bumpers, rock rails, overland gear before I do suspension and tire. Will do that last and get it dialed in for my specific needs.

Because I am an idiot, I did my measurements off the stock bumpers (which have since been removed) so I have no valid measurements. Not sure what I was thinking.

Could someone please give me the ground to tire fenders (I'm guessing this is best apples to apples) measurements of a stock diesel rubicon for the front and rear.

This is a heavy overland build that will probably be pushing 6K pounds so wonder what my stock sag is to help with my the lift I will put in (as an aside leaning to a RK 3.5" diesel specific lift or maybe 4.5" depending on my sag). The rear with fridge/slide, stove, extra water, 2nd battery and gas is 250-300lbs, so I'm not having the front end issues that some have. Even with 12k winch and bumper.

Thanks everyone!
Not what you asked for EXACTLY- but I do have a shitload of stock measurements off mine. Hopefully one or two will float your boat.


Stock 2021 Diesel Rubicon Height

11” from ground to lowest point of center belly under drivers door at the crossmember

17” ground to pinch weld right behind front tire (16 5/8” after suspension settled in)

18 5/8” ground 2 pinch weld in front of rear tire

19” ground to bottom of rear tow emergency chain bracket at rear

21 3/4” from ground to frame rail in front. As measured between the pitman arm & sway bar

13 5/8” from ground to bottom of sway bar disco skid plate

18” from ground to bottom of front OEM Steel bumper
 
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LowBama

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I’m not sure if it’s already been said but the easiest way to deal with the UCA bolt near the exhaust is to loosen it and cut the head off. Then replace the bolt with the nut on the exhaust side. New bolt and regular nut is only a few bucks and saves a ton of trouble. I put MC adjustable UCAs on and it worked great. Took maybe 1hr to do both.
 

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I’m not sure if it’s already been said but the easiest way to deal with the UCA bolt near the exhaust is to loosen it and cut the head off. Then replace the bolt with the nut on the exhaust side. New bolt and regular nut is only a few bucks and saves a ton of trouble. I put MC adjustable UCAs on and it worked great. Took maybe 1hr to do both.
I saw "The Ginger" doing this on several diesel lift kits via Epic Adventure outfitters on the tubes
 
 



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