Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD

[Themistocles]

I really dig your build. This is exactly what I’m looking to do with mine when it arrives. Thank you for putting together such a comprehensive thread! Any photos of how it sits now that you have your suspension dialed in with the new shocks?

Thanks. This is the best I have at the moment. Taken this weekend at the NOVA Jeepers Show and Shine event. Mine is the first in the line.

Of note: The next gray vehicle down the line is also a JLURD. He had really nicely built rig on a MC 3.5" and 37s...and sat a total of .5 inches higher than I am....maybe not even quite that.

Sponsored

 

[Themistocles]

Well the Quadratec Stealth 10S is finally in after sitting in my garage for 3-months. Install went fairly smoothly. The plate that came with the Roam front bumper fit the winch perfectly and the bumper seems like it was made for the measurements of the 10S. Fit could hardly be better. The only difficult part was routing the power. The cables are big enough and the diesel engine compartment is so full that every place I routed them they came too close for my comfort to hot or moving parts. I finally just routed them up the passenger side edge of my grill as the MOPAR instructions for winch install indicate.

I did put in an isolator (500 amp relay) that I connected to Aux 3. Tested...works perfectly. tensioned the line by hauling my 2500 Ram across my yard. I also put on a Factor 55 Ultrahook and Factor 55 hawse fairlead.

Unboxed and ready for install

Attached to the winch plate. The Rigid 10" light bar I had installed was too far back and contacted the winch when I tried to reseat the bumper. Had to move the light forward about an inch and a half. It is still just behind the line of the bull bar, so should be ok.

Installed the relay next to the battery.

Final Product - Ready for Moab test in a few weeks- Note: you can see the power running up the edge of my grill on the left corner of the picture. I am not a huge fan of that, but I thought it was a better option than running it too close to moving parts or hot parts.

 

[Themistocles]

Took the jeep in to the USMC auto hobby shop today. Did an oil change, just to have it for sure done right before our trip out to Moab. Also changed the differential oil front and back and put on Motobilt diff covers. Easy day in the shop today. Jeep almost ready. Last big project is the ARB compressor.

Also mounted my Hi-Lift Jack on a Dominion Offroad mount. Very easy, took about 15 mins and holds the jack rock solid.

 

[Themistocles]

Well, I got the ARB compressor mounted pretty easily. I attached it to an MPS panel on the driver side above the rear wheel well. I had to improvise a bit to firmly attach it to the MPS panel, but now it is very solid. I ran two 10 AWG positives straight to the battery and one 8 AWG negative to the battery as well. I then ran the switch to my Aux 4.

I cut the carpet next to the compressor to run the wires and then threaded them under the plastic covers between the driver side front and rear doors and the carpet. From there up to the firewall and out into the engine compartment for the primary power and ground and over to the passenger footwell to connect to the OEM Aux 4 switch wire.

Not as slick/complicated as many ARB installs, and will probably eventually put in something like the AAL manifold. But for now this works. No real problems or sticking points. Running the wires was a bit of a PITA, but not hard to figure out, just took some fitting to get those big wires to line up in a way that allowed everything to go back in place.


Backside of the MPS Panel with my attachment solution

Top View Mounted on MPS Panel

Blue arrow shows where wires run into carpet

Final Product Mounted and Ready for Use

Hose and Air Chuck Mounted

I thought quite a bit about where to put the compressor. I really like the under-the-seat mount but I know my kids, and they will kick it non-stop. I also was a bit worried about water intrusion...again not so much thinking I am going to be fording water high enough to submerse my seats, but I know how many times water bottles get dropped and I have at times had enough rain penetrate my other vehicles to the extent that it created standing pools on the floorboards. Now know the ARB is supposed to be immune to that kind of splashing or mild/partial submersion, but that combined with constant kicking was enough to eliminate the under-the-seat mount as my number one solution. Also the diesel engine compartment is hot and crowded....didn't like the idea of the compressor there. So really I was left with mounting it above the wheel well. The MPS panel made the mounting easy. Have run it a few times now and volume in the cabin is not that loud...in fact fairly easy to talk over the top of. Will see how it does on the Moab trip, but as of now very happy with the location and the look.

 

[Themistocles]

Well, I am back from my two and a half week wheeling vacation to the Grand Canyon, Moab, and Ouray. The details of which, if anyone is interested can be found here: Summer Jeep Odyssey: Virginia - Grand Canyon - Moab - Telluride - Virginia | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com

I will not rehash the journey, but wanted to take a moment to review what worked and what did not work in my build.

What worked
1. The OEM vehicle: The more I drive it the more I like the JL. Over 5k miles with two kids the entire time and my wife for about 5 days of it. All kinds of terrain from interstate to the Poughkeepsie Gulch Wall...and everything in between. The JL was comfortable and capable the entire time. All the systems worked, mileage averaged about 22mpg. Room for all the gear, backseat comfortable enough for my daughter to not complain once (about that). What a great vehicle.

2. The Suspension: The combination of the the Clayton (@Clayton Off Road) 2.5 Overland+ Diesel kit with 4.5" - 6" lift, AccuTune Fox (@AccuTune Off-Road) 2.5" DSC shocks was spectacular. It handled everything with ease and seemed to ask for more.

3. The ROAM Rock Rails: The rails took multiple pretty hard hits and got dragged a few times. I have them probably too close to my body and still not a hint of flex / contact with the body.

4. My Midland GMRS mobile radio & handheld radios: Used them multiple times, worked perfectly every time. Great range, easy to use. The CMM mounting solution was also exactly what was needed easy to access and could use it both while still mounted or easily pull the mic off the mount and use it.

5. Quadratec (@Quadratec) Winch: Only used it once, but it performed perfectly and easily.

6. ARB (@ARB_USA) Twin Air Compressor: LOVE this addition. This thing is a beast, very quick to reflate tires to 35 PSI. Not that loud...even mounted inside the vehicle didn't drown of music or audiobook.

7. Expedition One (@Expedition One) MULE Roof Rack: Not a single rattle, whistle, or hiccup the entire trip, used it the entire way. A couple nuts loosened up, but that is on me. Very very happy with this rack.

What didn't work
1. No remote manifold for ARB: I thought that I had mounted the ARB compressor high enough in the rear of the JL to allow space to pack stuff without blocking the attached manifold. WRONG. Every damn time I used it, which was once or twice a day nearly every day, I had to halfway unpack all my gear to get the hose connected. I really need to put in a remote manifold. Location of the pump itself worked...just need to move the manifold so I can't pack it in.

2. The F%*^^ng Midland CB: I simply can't get the SWR down low enough to make it functional. Driving me absolutely crazy. I have checked grounds like a hundred times, checked all the wires, checked power, done everything I can think of and still I am pegging SWR and have a nearly unusable CB.

3. The Igloo BMX Cooler: I know I shouldn't have expected all that much...but ice retention was maybe 12 hours. This got really frustrating having to constantly refill ice...even when inside the vehicle with AC on. Have to get a good cooler.

What did I need that I didn't have:
1. Folding tailgate table. I needed this nearly every day. Should have installed one, will do so now.

2. Better belly armor. The OEM skids worked. I dragged the gas tank, the DEF tank, and both rear shock mounts. Aside from scrapes did not damage to the vehicle. So yet another Jeep OEM win. However, I was very aware of the gaps left by the OEM skids and modified my driving because of that. Need a full aluminum belly armor system.

3. 37s. Ok so I have been a vocal advocate of 35s. For the JL they seem to be the sweet spot between everyday drivability and trail capability. Which they probably are. BUT I sure wished I had 37s on many occasions on this trip. Need to do some thinking.

While there are are other things I could talk about, those are the key items. So my checklist to get done before my next adventure:

• Install a Tailgate Table
• Fix CB or pull it out
• Install Reid Knuckles and Dynatrac balljoints (ran out of time and didn't get that done before this trip)
• Bite the $$ bullet and put in aluminum skid plates
• Put in a manifold for the ARB compressor
• Consider RCVs
• Consider switching to 37s
• Get a good cooler

And one action picture...just because.

 

[ChuckQue]

Well, I am back from my two and a half week wheeling vacation to the Grand Canyon, Moab, and Ouray. The details of which, if anyone is interested can be found here: Summer Jeep Odyssey: Virginia - Grand Canyon - Moab - Telluride - Virginia | Jeep Wrangler Forums (JL / JLU) - Rubicon, Sahara, Sport, 4xe, 392 - JLwranglerforums.com

I will not rehash the journey, but wanted to take a moment to review what worked and what did not work in my build.

What worked
1. The OEM vehicle: The more I drive it the more I like the JL. Over 5k miles with two kids the entire time and my wife for about 5 days of it. All kinds of terrain from interstate to the Poughkeepsie Gulch Wall...and everything in between. The JL was comfortable and capable then entire time. All the systems worked, mileage averaged about 22mpg. Room for all the gear, backseat comfortable enough for my daughter to not complain once (about that). What a great vehicle.

2. The Suspension: The combination of the the Clayton (@Clayton Off Road) 2.5 Overland+ Diesel kit with 4.5" - 6" lift, AccuTune Fox (@AccuTune Off-Road) 2.5" DSC shocks was spectacular. It handled everything with ease and seemed to ask for more.

3. The ROAM Rock Rails: The rails took multiple pretty hard hits and got dragged a few times. I have them probably too close to my body and still not a hint of flex / contact with the body.

4. My Uniden GMRS mobile radio & handheld radios: Used them multiple times, worked perfectly every time. Great range, easy to use. The CMM mounting solution was also exactly what was needed easy to access and could use it both while still mounted or easily pull the mic off the mount and use it.

5. Quadratec (@Quadratec) Winch: Only used it once, but it performed perfectly and easily.

6. ARB (@ARB_USA) Twin Air Compressor: LOVE this addition. This thing is a beast, very quick to reflate tires to 35 PSI. Not that load...even mounted inside the vehicle didn't drown of music or audiobook.

7. Expedition One (@Expedition One) MULE Roof Rack: Not a single rattle, whistle, or hiccup the entire trip, used it the entire way. A couple nuts loosened up, but that is on me. Very very happy with this rack.

What didn't work
1. No remote manifold for ARB: I thought that I had mounted the ARB compressor high enough in the rear of the JL to allow space to pack stuff without blocking the attached manifold. WRONG. Every damn time I used it, which was once or twice a day nearly every day, I had to halfway unpack all my gear to get the hose connected. I really need to put in a remote manifold. Location of the pump itself worked...just need to move the manifold so I can't pack it in.

2. The F%*^^ng Uniden CB: I simply can't get the SWR down low enough to make it functional. Driving me absolutely crazy. I have checked grounds like a hundred times, checked all the wires, checked power, done everything I can think of and still I am pegging SWR and have a nearly unusable CB.

3. The Igloo BMX Cooler: I know I shouldn't have expected all that much...but ice retention was maybe 12 hours. This got really frustrating having to constantly refill ice...even when inside the vehicle with AC on. Have to get a good cooler.

What did I need that I didn't have:
1. Folding tailgate table. I needed this nearly every day. Should have installed one, will do so now.

2. Better belly armor. The OEM skids worked. I dragged the gas tank, the DEF tank, and both rear shock mounts. Aside from scrapes did not damage to the vehicle. So yet another Jeep OEM win. However, I was very aware of the gaps left by the OEM skids and modified my driving because of that. Need a full aluminum belly armor system.

3. 37s. Ok so I have been a vocal advocate of 35s. For the JL they seem to be the sweet spot between everyday drivability and trail capability. Which they probably are. BUT I sure wished I had 37s on many occasions on this trip. Need to do some thinking.

While there are are other things I could talk about, those are the key items. So my checklist to get done before my next adventure:

• Install a Tailgate Table
• Fix CB or pull it out
• Install Reid Knuckles and Dynatrac balljoints (ran out of time and didn't get that done before this trip)
• Bite the $$ bullet and put in aluminum skid plates
• Put in a manifold for the ARB compressor
• Consider RCVs
• Consider switching to 37s
• Get a good cooler

In your experience what are the limitations or missing parts of the factory skids?

Also, how were your fluid temps?

 

[Themistocles]

In your experience what are the limitations or missing parts of the factory skids?

Also, how were your fluid temps?

Two parts...both potentially more my own issues than OEM deficiencies. First, I am uncomfortable that the OEM skids are just not solid enough for repeated beatings. With that said they held up just fine to the beatings they took on this trip. Second, there are some gaps in coverage that could allow larger rocks to reach up to the transmission or at a minimum project up into a gap and hang me up. Again the only place I experienced such problems on this trip was in my head...but it did impact how I drove and there were a few rocks I caught on the diesel tank skid that were large enough to have probably reached up to the trans or hung me up if I had not placed them where did.

Fluid temps were pretty good. On the trail, regardless of activity I don't remember seeing a coolant temp over 212 (with corresponding oil temps). On the road I saw 230 at a couple points...both in Colorado, both up high, and both climbing a pass at highway speeds. Backing off the throttle did bring them down, but only so much you can back off...climbing passes at high altitude, at highway speeds did see a rise...but still 230 is not terrible.

 

[Yardstick]

3. The Igloo BMX Cooler: I know I shouldn't have expected all that much...but ice retention was maybe 12 hours. This got really frustrating having to constantly refill ice...even when inside the vehicle with AC on. Have to get a good cooler.

I'm not sure if or how much better it might be, but I've had good luck with Pelican coolers. I took an older 45 qt model on a multi-day trip several years ago. I only recall topping it off about every 2 days or so. It rode in the bed of the truck for the whole trip. The 35 qt model is easier to fit inside the truck or Jeep. I haven't used it yet, but I also have a Dometic 55IM that isn't much larger than the 35qt Pelican. No ice required, but you do need some supplemental power for something like that.

3. 37s. Ok so I have been a vocal advocate of 35s. For the JL they seem to be the sweet spot between everyday drivability and trail capability. Which they probably are. BUT I sure wished I had 37s on many occasions on this trip. Need to do some thinking.

This is interesting to hear. I had a JKUR on 37" tires and that got around so well that I thought I would do that on my JLURD. Mine is still stock and I keep coming back to your thread when I think about what to do to it. I would really like to get better up-travel out of it so it's not slamming into the bump stops so frequently at anything more than crawling speed though.

 

[JLURocking Chair]

Thanks for your posts on the lift/shocks:

“The first thing we did was pull out the OEM inner fenders and fender liners , install Metal Cloak front fender liners and fender braces, and then re-ramp it. The gain was exceptional. Just this change gained over 3 inches of space in the wheel well. This allowed all 3 inches of Clayton added bump stop to come out and gave me 5.5 inches of up-travel. However, as configured the swaybar arms were contacting the inner fenders. So we started trimming the sway bar links a bit at a time to see if we could correct this. In the end we corrected most of it with trimming links, but had to add 1 inch of bump stop back in.

The final numbers were
4.5 inches of up-travel (before contacting bump stop...will compress a bit from there)

• 12.5 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the front (18" compressed - 30.5 inches extended)
• 11.25 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the rear (21 3/4" compressed - 33" extended)

I wanted to clarify/confirm the specs on the two sets of shocks you used and compare to a couple others:

Metal Cloak RockSport 17.0”-30.0”, 13” stroke (same front and rear)

FOX 2.5 performance elite DSC (4.5”-6” lift)
Front FOX-883-26-052, 18.34”-30.51”, 12.17” stroke
Rear FOX-883-26-056, 19.43”-32.3”, 12.87” stroke

Clayton website listed for 3.5”-4” kits: FOX PERFORMANCE SERIES 2.0 IFP
Front FOX-985-24-179, 17.85”-28.45”, 10.6” stroke
Rear FOX-985-24-180, 18.95”-30.55”, 11.6” stroke

And a new one recently posted by JKS on the forum
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ase-fox-2-5-performance-series-shocks.101297/
Fox 2.5” performance tuned for JL
Front 17.76”-26.67”, 8.91 stroke
Rear 18.71”-28.6”, 9.89 stroke

A few comments/questions:

• The RockSport shocks have largest stroke but the main difference is at the fully compressed side where the fenders/other suspension parts may be limiting, and they are at the low end of cost/performance
• The 2.5 DSC has more stroke than the lower FOX models, mostly at the long end which is fully useable (as long as the spring doesn’t fully extend). This seems to make the $$$ choice of the 2.5 DCS more bearable and may be more of a benefit than the remote reservoir which isn’t really needed (?) for crawling and on road.
• The 2.5 DSC have a slightly longer compressed length and I am confused about your wheel travel measurements with your remaining 1” bumpstop. In the front, you are measuring 18" while the shock is rated at 18.3" compressed (maybe just measurement precision?). Is there some travel left in the shock when contacting the bumpstop? At the long end, it seems like the shock is limiting the travel-is the spring still tight in the perches? Similar question for the rear at full extension measurement more than shock spec?
• The new 2.5 performance shocks posted by JKS seem inferior due to the small stroke even if they are the larger 2.5” bore vs. 2.0 IFP. I will post this comparison in the JKS thread to see what they have to say as well.

In summary, I think you made the right choice but wanted to hear your thoughts on the comparisons I made. Your posts really help my decision making. What level of tune (adventure/dual sport/trail) did you ask Accutune to ship? I am about to take delivery of a ’23 JLURD and will go right to 37” tires and 3.5” Clayton lift, AAL fender liners. With 1” bigger radius tire and 1” more lift than you have, I think your wheel travel and clearance measurements will match closely with mine.?

 

[Themistocles]

I'm not sure if or how much better it might be, but I've had good luck with Pelican coolers. I took an older 45 qt model on a multi-day trip several years ago. I only recall topping it off about every 2 days or so. It rode in the bed of the truck for the whole trip. The 35 qt model is easier to fit inside the truck or Jeep. I haven't used it yet, but I also have a Dometic 55IM that isn't much larger than the 35qt Pelican. No ice required, but you do need some supplemental power for something like that.




This is interesting to hear. I had a JKUR on 37" tires and that got around so well that I thought I would do that on my JLURD. Mine is still stock and I keep coming back to your thread when I think about what to do to it. I would really like to get better up-travel out of it so it's not slamming into the bump stops so frequently at anything more than crawling speed though.

Sorry for the delayed response. It has been a crazy 10-days or so at work. Starting to slow down a bit.

Thanks for the recommendation on cooler...I have my eyes on 3 or 4 different ones and that Pelican is one of them.

I think when these tires wear out I will likely go with 37s, but before I do I will truss and gusset my front and rear and put in RCVs and regear to 4.10s. Meaning the switch is going to be $$$. I know there are folks with 37s on stock running gear, but I just dont see doing that and then running it hard. The only reason I would put on the 37s is to make the JL more capable. Since on 35s I can already run 6s and 7s pretty well, that means a rig that can run 7s and 8s. And I just don't see getting out on an 8 trail with stock axles on 37s.

I agree on the up travel, I have been pretty focused on that. went through all of my summer trip, Arizona high-speed desert roads, Moab trails, and Colorado passes without bottoming one time, pretty happy with that. I really want to maintain that if I go 37s. I think that I can run 37s with no additional bump stop, but it will be close. At full compression / full turn I still have a decent amount of space...will have to measure everything again and see if it will fit 37s...may have to do a little fine tuning.

 

[Themistocles]

Thanks for your posts on the lift/shocks:

“The first thing we did was pull out the OEM inner fenders and fender liners , install Metal Cloak front fender liners and fender braces, and then re-ramp it. The gain was exceptional. Just this change gained over 3 inches of space in the wheel well. This allowed all 3 inches of Clayton added bump stop to come out and gave me 5.5 inches of up-travel. However, as configured the swaybar arms were contacting the inner fenders. So we started trimming the sway bar links a bit at a time to see if we could correct this. In the end we corrected most of it with trimming links, but had to add 1 inch of bump stop back in.

The final numbers were
4.5 inches of up-travel (before contacting bump stop...will compress a bit from there)

• 12.5 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the front (18" compressed - 30.5 inches extended)
• 11.25 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the rear (21 3/4" compressed - 33" extended)

I wanted to clarify/confirm the specs on the two sets of shocks you used and compare to a couple others:

Metal Cloak RockSport 17.0”-30.0”, 13” stroke (same front and rear)

FOX 2.5 performance elite DSC (4.5”-6” lift)
Front FOX-883-26-052, 18.34”-30.51”, 12.17” stroke
Rear FOX-883-26-056, 19.43”-32.3”, 12.87” stroke

Clayton website listed for 3.5”-4” kits: FOX PERFORMANCE SERIES 2.0 IFP
Front FOX-985-24-179, 17.85”-28.45”, 10.6” stroke
Rear FOX-985-24-180, 18.95”-30.55”, 11.6” stroke

And a new one recently posted by JKS on the forum
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ase-fox-2-5-performance-series-shocks.101297/
Fox 2.5” performance tuned for JL
Front 17.76”-26.67”, 8.91 stroke
Rear 18.71”-28.6”, 9.89 stroke

A few comments/questions:

• The RockSport shocks have largest stroke but the main difference is at the fully compressed side where the fenders/other suspension parts may be limiting, and they are at the low end of cost/performance
• The 2.5 DSC has more stroke than the lower FOX models, mostly at the long end which is fully useable (as long as the spring doesn’t fully extend). This seems to make the $$$ choice of the 2.5 DCS more bearable and may be more of a benefit than the remote reservoir which isn’t really needed (?) for crawling and on road.
• The 2.5 DSC have a slightly longer compressed length and I am confused about your wheel travel measurements with your remaining 1” bumpstop. In the front, you are measuring 18" while the shock is rated at 18.3" compressed (maybe just measurement precision?). Is there some travel left in the shock when contacting the bumpstop? At the long end, it seems like the shock is limiting the travel-is the spring still tight in the perches? Similar question for the rear at full extension measurement more than shock spec?
• The new 2.5 performance shocks posted by JKS seem inferior due to the small stroke even if they are the larger 2.5” bore vs. 2.0 IFP. I will post this comparison in the JKS thread to see what they have to say as well.

In summary, I think you made the right choice but wanted to hear your thoughts on the comparisons I made. Your posts really help my decision making. What level of tune (adventure/dual sport/trail) did you ask Accutune to ship? I am about to take delivery of a ’23 JLURD and will go right to 37” tires and 3.5” Clayton lift, AAL fender liners. With 1” bigger radius tire and 1” more lift than you have, I think your wheel travel and clearance measurements will match closely with mine.?

Wow...lots of great questions.

So will start of with bottom line. I am exceptionally happy with my set-up. The Accutune Fox 2.5s are amazing and change the entire feel of the Jeep. Literally night and day, I am so much more confident driving, even on road. This is the shock the JLURD wanted. Now with bottom line taken care of the details.

1. The bump stop add was not primarily to clear shock measurements it was to keep suspension components happy. To keep the sway bar from straightening out at full extension (and then potentially inverting) the end link needs to be a certain length. When we compressed down to 17 inches we were struggling to keep the sway bar from being pushed up so far that it was contacting metal. We also were a bit worried about the added compression of a really hard hit compressing the the bumpstop and things getting even tighter...to include the shock. The 18" measurement is touching bump stop, but not compressing it. In the end we lost an inch of up travel 5.5 - 4.5 but we felt it was just too much of risk (in really hard use) to leave that 1" out.

2. Yes confirmed, everyone says the shorter shock, but we did the measurements about 10 times. If you just slam the suspension on an otherwise stock vehicle, then maybe the shorter shock is right, but when you do the work to clear fender space and dial in your end links, pull out bump stop, and add longer brake lines... In the end the shorter shock just doesn't match the measurements. The 4.5 - 6" is the one that matched. Hands down, no questions that is the shock that my jeep...with the 2.5 Clayton and added tuning needed. What I wasn't tracking was how much difference that extra work makes. When I took my rig out to the NOVA Jeepers show and shine they had a RTI Ramp. I couldn't pass that up so I ramped mine. Scored an 890 and rolled back about three inches after being told to stop...pure driver error. My math with those 3 inches added back puts me a bit over 900. Now I know the RTI is just a number and not necessarily indicative of trail capability, but I tracked all the rest of the numbers that day...I was the top JL by about 75 and (aside from the crazy buggy that drove over the top of the ramp) the second highest number of the day. The interesting thing is many of the vehicles that ramped after me had 37s on 3.5" lifts...but with fenders still in, 3 inches of bump stop, and no other changes made. Slam in the lift and dont work the rest and apparently the difference is 75 - 100 pts on the RTI.

3. Tune...my going in was to ask for the dual sport...and Accutune talked me out of that. Basically what the rep said was if you have a trailer queen rock buggy or pure race vehicle go for the trail. If you have a chase truck or ranch vehicle that sees pavement...occasionally, but lives its life pretty much off road go for the dual sport, if you have anything else, go for the adventure. I went for the adventure and, not surprisingly, Accutune was right. Adventure is perfect. I think the best test was the 160 miles of the Rimrocker tail. Lots of really varied terrain...flawless performance across the full range.

Hope that helps and glad the thread has been of use to somebody.

 

[Themistocles]

Well, about a month ago I hit a pothole on the passenger side and felt a little shimmy. Over the next couple weeks, the shimmy developed into death wobble. Not the shake you off the road, rip the wheel out of your hand kind, but enough to have to slow down to control it. I have been through this whole drama with my Ram, so figured I would chase it quickly.

First, I visually inspected all the components, everything looked good. I then, by hand, tried to feel any looseness. My draglink and tie rod could be twisted just a little by hand but probably not enough to worry about. All else seemed solid. I went in and checked all my torque specs, a few were a little off, but again not by much. Fixed all those. Still had death wobble.

So, purchases started. I already had a set of Reid knuckles and Dynatrac ball joints in the garage that I hadn't gotten around to installing yet. To this, I added a Steer Smarts trackbar / sector shaft brace and a Fox 2.0 ATS steering stabilizer. This weekend I figured I would get it done. As of about 8pm Sunday night, mission success. Install was long, much of it spent watching Youtube videos to figure out the next step. However, after lots of videos, a decent amount of swearing, and surprisingly little beer the task is complete. Both Reid knuckles on with new ball joints installed, trackbar / sector shaft brace in, and steering stabilizer on. Overall, job took about 16 hours with the help of my 12-year-old son who helped a lot...and my dogs who didn't really help much but brought me a ball to throw for them about 5k times.

Just back from the alignment shop. 6.4 degrees caster, and everything else in the green. Before the alignment only had one fairly minor issue (pulling left just a little with steering wheel not quite centered.) That was corrected and now everything in the green. For now, at least, death wobble is totally gone, steering rock solid and very very tight, in fact more responsive than my wife's 2022 GLE. Drives perfectly straight and can easily cruise down the interstate with two-fingers on the wheel. Much better than the day I bought it.

Driver Side install in process. Trackbar brace already on

Passenger side done...dog approved, impatiently waiting for me to throw the ball...again

 

[Sargeoverland]

Well, about a month ago I hit a pothole on the passenger side and felt a little shimmy. Over the next couple weeks, the shimmy developed into death wobble. Not the shake you off the road, rip the wheel out of your hand kind, but enough to have to slow down to control it. I have been through this whole drama with my Ram, so figured I would chase it quickly.

First, I visually inspected all the components, everything looked good. I then, by hand, tried to feel any looseness. My draglink and tie rod could be twisted just a little by hand but probably not enough to worry about. All else seemed solid. I went in and checked all my torque specs, a few were a little off, but again not by much. Fixed all those. Still had death wobble.

So, purchases started. I already had a set of Reid knuckles and Dynatrac ball joints in the garage that I hadn't gotten around to installing yet. To this, I added a Steer Smarts trackbar / sector shaft brace and a Fox 2.0 ATS steering stabilizer. This weekend I figured I would get it done. As of about 8pm Sunday night, mission success. Install was long, much of it spent watching Youtube videos to figure out the next step. However, after lots of videos, a decent amount of swearing, and surprisingly little beer the task is complete. Both Reid knuckles on with new ball joints installed, trackbar / sector shaft brace in, and steering stabilizer on. Overall, job took about 16 hours with the help of my 12-year-old son who helped a lot...and my dogs who didn't really help much but brought me a ball to throw for them about 5k times.

Just back from the alignment shop. 6.4 degrees caster, and everything else in the green. Before the alignment only had one fairly minor issue (pulling left just a little with steering wheel not quite centered.) That was corrected and now everything in the green. For now, at least, death wobble is totally gone, steering rock solid and very very tight, in fact more responsive than my wife's 2022 GLE. Drives perfectly straight and can easily cruise down the interstate with two-fingers on the wheel. Much better than the day I bought it.

Driver Side install in process. Trackbar brace already on

Passenger side done...dog approved, impatiently waiting for me to throw the ball...again

Man I wish you would’ve done one at a time to see what the actual issue was. Granted that is so much extra work. Wonder if it was the track bar or the ball joints. My ball joints are on their way out so I get the shimmy and dw every once in a while

 

[Themistocles]

Man I wish you would’ve done one at a time to see what the actual issue was. Granted that is so much extra work. Wonder if it was the track bar or the ball joints. My ball joints are on their way out so I get the shimmy and dw every once in a while

I thought about doing it that way, but just didn't have the time. My ball joints did not feel bad when took them out, but also can't duplicate driving pressure, so really don't know. I have just a hair under 40k miles, all but 2.5k with 35s. The jeep does spend most of its time on highway as my daily driver. But I also do a good deal of off road on weekends...to include this last summer in Arizona, Moab, and Ouray. I am tempted to pull the steering stabilizer and do a little driving just to confirm it is not masking a continued problem...will see if I can break free some time to do that.

 

[ChuckQue]

Any new work being put in sir? I always find myself coming back to your build thread. I consider yours to be a big inspiration for where I want mine to be.

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