Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD

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Themistocles

Themistocles

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Thanks for the suggestions. I went with the Fox 2.0’s.
Those are good shocks. I have had them in my Ram for about 10 years and love them. Also, from what I can tell from the below chart, which I shamelessly stole from another JL Forum post...thank you @AnnDee4444 for putting this chart together. The Fox 2.0s (assume 2.5" lift) seem to fit the need very very nicely.

Suspesion Figures Jeep JL.PNG
 
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Dudley Dawson

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Those are good shocks. I have had them in my Ram for about 10 years and love them. Also, from what I can tell from the below chart, which I shamelessly stole from another JL Forum post...thank you @AnnDee4444 for putting this chart together. The Fox 2.0s (assume 2.5" lift) seem to fit the need very very nicely.

Suspesion Figures Jeep JL.PNG
Wow - that is a great shock comparison and resource (thanks @AnnDee4444).

I was a bit apprehensive about going 2.5 with 35s (as in excessive fender gap) but the Gray JLU D on Clayton’s webpage with the 2.5 lift looks awesome (albeit with non-Rubi fender flares). But I like having added space for articulation anyway.

I “just emptied every pocket” after promising the wife 2 years ago that the Rubicon was the ideal choice, because I wouldn’t “need to” add mods etc. Oops.

Anyway - awesome build. Sorry for hijacking your thread but looking forward to seeing your results.

David
 
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Themistocles

Themistocles

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Wow - that is a great shock comparison and resource (thanks @AnnDee4444).

I was a bit apprehensive about going 2.5 with 35s (as in excessive fender gap) but the Gray JLU D on Clayton’s webpage with the 2.5 lift looks awesome (albeit with non-Rubi fender flares). But I like having added space for articulation anyway.

I “just emptied every pocket” after promising the wife 2 years ago that the Rubicon was the ideal choice, because I wouldn’t “need to” add mods etc. Oops.

Anyway - awesome build. Sorry for hijacking your thread but looking forward to seeing your results.

David
I was a bit hesitant as well...but IRL it looks amazingly good. I actually think it could go another .5 inches front and back and still look great with the 35s. To me at least they don't look small for the wheel well space. As it sits now I simply could not be happier with the look. I think you will love it.
 

WranglerAdvs

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Those are good shocks. I have had them in my Ram for about 10 years and love them. Also, from what I can tell from the below chart, which I shamelessly stole from another JL Forum post...thank you @AnnDee4444 for putting this chart together. The Fox 2.0s (assume 2.5" lift) seem to fit the need very very nicely.

Suspesion Figures Jeep JL.PNG
Radflo and ADS shocks have great options for JLs. ADS' have great specs.
 
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Themistocles

Themistocles

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More when I get the Jeep back from the installer, but swung by the shop last night to check it out. Shocks are not connect on the bottom yet, and a few tweaks left...should have it back in the next few days. However, really happy with everything so far, just had to post a quick shot of where it stands at the moment.

20210529_173748.jpg
 
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Themistocles

Themistocles

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I finally have the Jeep back. Picked it up from OCD Offroad at about 8pm last Friday, and was off to run Flagpole with NOVA Jeepers at 0630 Saturday morning. A big thanks to Scott at OCD, he had a busy week but still got the work done and then stuck around 1.5 hours after close time to walk through everything with me, go for a long test drive, and do a final check on everything. Also thanks to @Jeepin_Donnie and the NOVA Jeepers crew for putting together a great day out on Flagpole!

Suspension: 2.5 Clayton Overland + Diesel
Tires: 35" Toyo Open Country AT II
Wheels: Method 701
Inner Fenders: Metal Cloak
Fender Brace: Metal Cloak
Shocks (temporary): Metal Cloak Rocksport long travel

When the Clayton kit (@Clayton Off Road) originally went in it was good...but had room for some tuning. As installed out of the box, with no tuning or additional mods I had about 10 inches of travel (at the shock) in the front and just a touch more in the rear, about 2.5 inches of up-travel (before contacting bump stops) in the front and a little less in the rear). While these numbers are not bad, I was looking for improvements in both. So Scott and his folks at OCD started working to improve those numbers.

The first thing we did was pull out the OEM inner fenders and fender liners , install Metal Cloak front fender liners and fender braces, and then re-ramp it. The gain was exceptional. Just this change gained over 3 inches of space in the wheel well. This allowed all 3 inches of Clayton added bump stop to come out and gave me 5.5 inches of up-travel. However, as configured the swaybar arms were contacting the inner fenders. So we started trimming the sway bar links a bit at a time to see if we could correct this. In the end we corrected most of it with trimming links, but had to add 1 inch of bump stop back in. This solved the problem on the ramp...but at is turns out not completely on the trail (will continue to work this issue over the next couple weeks.)

The final numbers were
  • 4.5 inches of up-travel (before contacting bump stop...will compress a bit from there)
  • 12.5 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the front (18" compressed - 30.5 inches extended)
  • 11.25 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the rear (21 3/4" compressed - 33" extended)
Of note there was still some room left to go before tires made contact with anything. However, as you can see from the pictures, at those numbers my back tire was starting to climb the ramp and the jeep was getting a bit tippy. It looked like the front had about another 3/4 - 1 inch to give and the back maybe another 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch. So, I think an assumption of 13 inches in the front and about 12 inches in the rear is good....and I am happy with those numbers, in fact extremely happy with those numbers for a mid-arm bolt on kit.

Post tune flex 2.jpg



Post tune flex 3.jpg

Performance out on Flagpole (pretty easy trail), was exceptional. I tried to take the hardest line through every obstacle. The combination of the low RPM diesel torque, lockers, and the very flexy suspension meant that I essentially idled through every obstacle without losing traction a single time. Now, Flagpole is pretty easy, but still I was extremely impressed by the performance of the JLURD. I did have a couple minor teething problems. I had a few jam nuts loosen up and most significantly, the bolt on my passenger side upper control arm lost a nut and backed out half way. I found it at our mid-point stop when I checked all the suspension components. Again the NOVA Jeepers crew were outstanding. Josh dug out a nut from his tool kit and our group tail contributed a high-strength ratchet strap...in short order we had the control arm aligned and bolted back in place...no drama, but can't say enough about how good a group of folks the NOVA Jeep crew are.

An easy section of Flagpole where I was able to focus more on taking pictures than driving.
Flagpole 1.jpg


Mid-point stop
Flagpole 2.jpg


So, overall still a couple minor issues to work out with the current set-up, but very pleased with where the Jeep is at the moment. The next step is to start working with Radflo (@Radflo Shocks) and figure out what the right shock set-up is for me...then order a set of 2.5 inch Radflos to top off the suspension. Then on to the next project....
 
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Jeepin_Donnie

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I finally have the Jeep back. Picked it up from OCD Offroad at about 8pm last Friday, and was off to run Flagpole with NOVA Jeepers at 0630 Saturday morning. A big thanks to Scott at OCD, he had a busy week but still got the work done and then stuck around 1.5 hours after close time to walk through everything with me, go for a long test drive, and do a final check on everything. Also thanks to @Jeepin_Donnie and the NOVA Jeepers crew for putting together a great day out on Flagpole!

Suspension: 2.5 Clayton Overland + Diesel
Tires: 35" Toyo Open Country AT II
Wheels: Method 701
Inner Fenders: Metal Cloak
Fender Brace: Metal Cloak
Shocks (temporary): Metal Cloak Rocksport long travel

When the Clayton kit (@Clayton Off Road) originally went in it was good...but had room for some tuning. As installed out of the box, with no tuning or additional mods I had about 10 inches of travel (at the shock) in the front and just a touch more in the rear, about 2.5 inches of up-travel (before contacting bump stops) in the front and a little less in the rear). While these numbers are not bad, I was looking for improvements in both. So Scott and his folks at OCD started working to improve those numbers.

The first thing we did was pull out the OEM inner fenders and fender liners , install Metal Cloak front fender liners and fender braces, and then re-ramp it. The gain was exceptional. Just this change gained over 3 inches of space in the wheel well. This allowed all 3 inches of Clayton added bump stop to come out and gave me 5.5 inches of up-travel. However, as configured the swaybar arms were contacting the inner fenders. So we started trimming the sway bar links a bit at a time to see if we could correct this. In the end we corrected most of it with trimming links, but had to add 1 inch of bump stop back in. This solved the problem on the ramp...but at is turns out not completely on the trail (will continue to work this issue over the next couple weeks.)

The final numbers were
  • 4.5 inches of up-travel (before contacting bump stop...will compress a bit from there)
  • 12.5 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the front (18" compressed - 30.5 inches extended)
  • 11.25 inches of travel (measured at the shock) in the rear (21 3/4" compressed - 33" extended)
Of note there was still some room left to go before tires made contact with anything. However, as you can see from the pictures, at those numbers my back tire was starting to climb the ramp and the jeep was getting a bit tippy. It looked like the front had about another 3/4 - 1 inch to give and the back maybe another 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch. So, I think an assumption of 13 inches in the front and about 12 inches in the rear is good....and I am happy with those numbers, in fact extremely happy with those numbers for a mid-arm bolt on kit.

Post tune flex 2.jpg



Post tune flex 3.jpg

Performance out on Flagpole (pretty easy trail), was exceptional. I tried to take the hardest line through every obstacle. The combination of the low RPM diesel torque, lockers, and the very flexy suspension meant that I essentially idled through every obstacle without losing traction a single time. Now, Flagpole is pretty easy, but still I was extremely impressed by the performance of the JLURD. I did have a couple minor teething problems. I had a few jam nuts loosen up and most significantly, the bolt on my passenger side upper control arm lost a nut and backed out half way. I found it at our mid-point stop when I checked all the suspension components. Again the NOVA Jeepers crew were outstanding. Josh dug out a nut from his tool kit and our group tail contributed a high-strength ratchet strap...in short order we had the control arm aligned and bolted back in place...no drama, but can't say enough about how good a group of folks the NOVA Jeep crew are.

An easy section of Flagpole where I was able to focus more on taking pictures than driving.
Flagpole 1.jpg


Mid-point stop
Flagpole 2.jpg


So, overall still a couple minor issues to work out with the current set-up, but very pleased with where the Jeep is at the moment. The next step is to start working with Radflo (@Radflo Shocks) and figure out what the right shock set-up is for me...then order a set of 2.5 inch Radflos to top off the suspension. Then on to the next project....
Excellent write up! So happy to hear you great time! Sign up for Camp Heep and join us at Rausch Creek! It's a great event. Please PM me anytime if you need anything or have any questions. Thanks!
 
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Themistocles

Themistocles

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So a quick teaser post, I will do a full write-up with many pictures when I have time over the next few days. Short story, I spent much of the 4th of July weekend installing a new power outlet on my dash, a Midland 75 CB, a Midland MXT275 GMRS, and a new fuse panel behind the driver's side knee panel. Was quite a job overall but I am very happy with the outcome.

dash with power and radios.jpg
 
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Themistocles

Themistocles

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It has been a crazy busy few months, so no posts and little done to the JL. I have over the last couple months been chasing a problem with my sway bar disconnect system. Intermittently, while driving, I will get a warning that says "sway bar disconnect unavailable." This started about 4 months ago and at first was very infrequent...maybe once per week and for only a few seconds. Slowly it got worse, to the point that now I more frequently than not have the warning showing. I have taken it in 4 times and think we finally have the problem identified.

The first time I was told it was likely a software issue and they did an update. By the time I got home from the dealership the warning had already reappeared. After bit of time I took it back in and the dealer said it was the switch, but they didn't have it in stock. Once the switch was in I took it back only to be told they had ordered the wrong switch. The correct switch was ordered and when in, I went back and had that installed. At the end of that visit, I was told the new switch was in, but hadn't resolved the problem. However, the tech after substantial investigation had identified a significant problem in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). He found the internal connections in the PDC to be extremely loose and poorly fitted. The result was that when he jiggled the PDC the warning would flash on an off. Now a new PDC is ordered...hopefully that resolves the problem.

During all those visits I also had the steel steering box but in. Dealership was great, I told them I had 1 - 1.5 inches of play in my steering wheel (which I did), they ordered the new steering box right there and replaced it without any further question. HUGE HUGE difference in steering feel. If you still have the aluminum box I highly recommend you go in and get it replaced. I now have the Yeti track bar and sector shaft brace ordered to provide the final bit of stabilization and hopefully make sure my steering remains as good as it is now for many years to come. I do have a slight shimmy in my steering wheel between 49 and 54 mph, still working on getting that figured out.

I also started to get an engine code for inefficient NOX bank 1. Initial dealership answer was the same as for the sway bar disconnect....software...so was the result, not fixed. I took it back in and they identified a faulty sensor. That was replaced, no more codes and I seem to have picked up about .5 - .75 mpg.

Since my last post I have installed Diode Dynamics (@Diode Dynamics) fogs, and Smittybilt door hinge mounted steps. I love the fogs but feel a bit silly about the steps, as I haven't ordered my Mule roof rack yet, and thus there is no reason for the steps. But a got a good deal and figured it was better to put them on then let them accumulate dust in my garage. Also on deck I have installation of extended braided stainless steel brake lines and a new bracket for rerouting my emergency brake cables...which are binding at full flex. I am also very excited about Oracle's (@ORACLElights) new flush mount taillights and will be ordering those as soon as Oracle releases them. More to follow...if I can find the time to get everything done.
 
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Themistocles

Themistocles

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Two quick additions to the Jeep last night. I put in the synergy emergency brake cable bracket to facilitate re-routing my brake cables under the frame brace (see pics). When at full extension the OEM mounting over the top of the brace (blue arrows) was causing my driver's side rear wheel to drag a little and my passenger side rear wheel to lock completely. This should resolve it, re-routing with the bracket gained about 3 - inches of travel.

ebrake bracket 1_LI.jpg


Also replaced the absolutely worthless OEM tray on the back side of the console with a cup holder. Yes, I know the OEM piece is like that to allow the rear seat to fold flat. However, the number of times I have to have the rear seat totally flat (zero to date) versus the number of times I have to break up my kids fighting over who gets cup holders (like 6 billion) made this a no brainer. Easy install, took about 20 mins total as I already had the console pulled up to access the emergency brake adjuster.

20211019_152824.jpg


20211018_180706.jpg
 
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