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Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD

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Themistocles

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Well, it has been a while. Just completing a pretty crazy 3-months at work. I haven't had time to do much on the JL and zero time to post anything. However, to keep myself sane I have been puttering a bit and have accomplished a few things.

I pulled a set of old Baja Designs Fuego HIDs off my Ram, restored them and switched them over to the JL. I really like the color of light from the Fuegos. I am sure I could play around with LED colors and come pretty close, but the Fuegos were the easy button, plus I hate spending $500 - $700 on a new set of lights to replace ones I already have...so a little elbow grease and now I have one set of my HIDs transferred to the JL.

I pulled all the internals from the light, stripped them down and then used Sting-Gray color match touchup paint to repaint them. I am not great with a spray can so the paint work isn't perfect but from more than a couple feet away it looks great...at least I think it looks great...which is what counts, its my JL.

First picture is one of the lights as they were on my Ram. That these lights are still running strong after pushing 12 years mounted...time running chase and rescue in BitD and Mojave Desert Race, crawling around the mountains deer and elk hunting in Idaho and Montana, and the general abuse of sitting in the weather on my bumper for nearly 12 years really is a testament to their build quality. Kudos to Baja Designs (@BajaDesigns)...hell of a product. When I pulled them apart the interior was even still shiny and clean...no penetration of dirt, dust, or water at all. The only real wear (besides paint) was that all the bolts were frozen and I had to cut them off.
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20201026_164756 (2)


stripped down.
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210306_164925 (2)


And now painted
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20201026_164859 (2)


I then shot it with clear coat, replaced the bolts, and mounted
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210310_173233 (2)


and another
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210310_173253 (2)


They look like they are a different shade than the vehicle, but that is just the sting-gray...it seems to change colors based on the angle you look at it, and the lighting. When put side by side the colors are identical. I really like how it turned out. I got them all wired up using weatherpacks so they can quick disconnect if needed...worked perfectly and still just as bright as the day I bought them. As I mentioned in a previous entry, I currently have them wired to Aux 1 with my Rigid light bar. Not sure I will keep that setup, will see how it works.

Now I just need to decide on which SAE driving lights I am going to put in and then bite the bullet and buy a Warn Zeon...and my bumper will be done...all the rest of vehicle to go.
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Completed work a bit early today, so figured I would tackle another electrical project. The Roam bumpers come with cutouts for sensors. I very specifically did not get the safety/assistance package with my JLURD...so I had no sensors to mount. The result was 4 sensor holes in the back bumper and 6 in the front. I could have just put bolts in them or popped on some covers. But that would have been too easy. So I thought about putting running lights in the sensor holes. My daughter, who has recently gotten the Jeep bug, was really excited about this idea. So I ordered some waterproof LED running lights from Amazon, that they exactly fit the sensor hole size makes me think I am not the first person to have this idea.

I am not sure I will stick with this. I may end up just popping on covers...but for now the running lights were a fun addition. As with pretty much everything electrical, I used weatherpack connections to make sure they were disconnectable and pretty well water / elements proof.

These are very very low amp draw lights...so I just used the license plate light OEM power. Seems to work well.

First picture is my daughter pulling the bolts out to take off the back Roam bumper.
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210311_165043 (2)


Second picture is my 8 year old daughter carrying the Roam bumper back to put it back on after we did the wiring. Gives you an idea of how light the Roam rear Pioneer bumper really is.
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210311_164731 (2)


Final picture is the lights installed and on.
Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210311_172727 (2)_LI
 
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Themistocles

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Another minor addition I put in over the last couple months. Two Molle Platform Solutions (MPS) molle panels. One rear overhead and one driver's side panel for the back. They were really easy to install. The most difficult item was needing to unbolt and slide the hardtop back about 3 inches. Nothing challenging in that, just took a few minutes to do. Both panels are very secure, and allow me to use some of the footlockers of random molle gear I have from deployments. Overall very happy with them. The kids love having pouches in which to put their power cords, masks, earbuds, etc. I like immediately being able to see if my gear is in place...using 9mm mag pouches for multi-tool, folding knife, and tactical flashlight. They work great and fit tight enough to prevent items falling out.

Also, I added an Element fire extinguisher to the rear overhead panel. The way the rear panel is positioned I can reach back and grab the fire extinguisher and the gear I have in the first row of pouches from the driver seat. The larger pouches in the back require being in the rear seat to access.

Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 20210307_125945 (2)


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Themistocles

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I figured I would take a few minutes and provide a quick recap of the build so far. I have entries for many of the things I have done, but also multiple upgrades that have not ended in an entry in the build journal.

So, to date this is what I have done:
  • Wheels: Method 701
  • Tires: 35x12.5x17 Toyo Open Country AT II
  • Front Bumper: Roam Pioneer
  • Rear Bumper: Roam Pioneer
  • Rock Rails: Roam Rock Sliders (frame mounted)
  • Lighting: Rigid 10" D-Series Amber Flood, Baja Designs Soltek Fuego HIDs Spots
  • Controller: Tazer JL Mini
  • Tailgate Reinforcement: Rugged Ridge Spartacus
  • D-Rings (front): Gear America Mega (grey)
  • Rear Tow Point: Factor 55 Hitchlink 2.0 (red)
  • Console Holster: Gibson Leatherworks 1911 holster
  • Console Bag: Gibson Leatherworks
  • Interior Panel: MPS Rear Overhead Molle Panel
  • Interior Panel: MPS Driver Side Fender Well Molle Panel
  • Interior Mounts: CMM Passenger Side Single Mount and 20mm Ball
  • Interior Mounts: CMM Driver Side Grab Handle 20mm Ball
  • Interior Mounts: Bulletpoint Mounting Solutions GoPro Mount
  • Interior Mounts: Bulletpoint Mounting Solutions Diablo M6 Magnetic Phone Mount
  • Interior Mounts: Quadratec Passenger and Driver Side Flashlight Mounts w/3D LED Maglights
  • Fire Extinguisher: E50 Element
  • Hood Struts: Redline Tuning

Edit 4/30/21
  • Clayton 2.5 inch Overland Diesel suspension
  • Adams 1350 front driveshaft
  • Rough Country license plate relocation bracket
Edit 6/1/21
  • Metal Cloak front inner fenders
  • Metal Cloak front fender brace
Edit 12/4/21
  • Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro SAE/DOT fogs
  • MBRP Muffle delete
  • Midland MXT275 GMRS Mobile Radio
  • Midland 75 CB mobile Radio
  • Bulletpoint Mounting Solutions Mic. mounts
  • Rear cupholder on console
  • Powerstop braided steel extended brake lines
  • Synergy Emergency brake cable relocation bracket
Edit 4/28/22
  • Expedition One Mule mid-rack
  • Oracle flush mount LED taillights
Edit 6/6/22
  • Accutune Fox 2.5" (4.5 - 6 " lift) DSC Shocks
  • Quadratec Stealth 10S winch w/Factor 55 Fairlead and Ultrahook
  • Dominion Off Road Stealth Hi-Lift Jack Mount
Edit 10/11/22
  • Reid Racing steering knuckles
  • Dynatrac ball joints
  • Fox 2.0 ATS steering stabilizer
  • Steer Smarts track bar and sector shaft brace
Edit 3/11/24
  • 37" Mickey Thompson Baja Legend Exps
  • AFE Momentum Air Intake w/ProGuard 7 Filter
Except for some minor Amazon stuff that is the list so far. Nothing on the list at this point that I regret or would not do again. I did finally make a decision on suspension and will do a separate post about that.
 
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Well after 8 months of research, emailing and calling suspension companies, sifting through forums, watching YouTube videos, talking to installers, and doing more pages of suspension math and notes than I care to admit, I finally made a call and ordered a Clayton Diesel Overland+ 2.5" suspension. I plan to pair it with a set of Radflo 2.5" adjustable remote res. shocks. The suspension is ordered, the shocks I am holding on...will explain that below. I am also having a set of motobilt diff covers installed...and am toying with putting in Artec trusses front and rear as well.

As I have noted multiple times in this build log, my initial choice was a Metal Cloak GC 2.5", however two things dissuaded me. First MC simply refused to provide their spring rates to me. I get this, it is proprietary and they spend time and energy developing their own products. However, it is not like they are protecting a huge trade secret. All any competitor needs to do is buy a set of MC springs and put them on a press to measure their rate. Essentially MC is saying, "trust us we know what is best for your rig." Same thing Apple does, and the reason I own all Android. With MC's reputation for building awesome suspensions, the truth is they probably do know best...but it still bothers me, especially as the diesel is new and even MC doesn't have much experience with it.

Second, I just couldn't get past MC not releasing a diesel specific suspension. I was initially hesitant to go with Clayton because they use linear rate front coils and I like the added length provided by dual or triple rates. I was also initially a bit hesitant because Clayton repurposed existing springs (at different lengths) for the diesel kit. However, unlike MC, Clayton was very open about their rates....and the rate they chose for the front is probably about as high as one could get on a jeep without making the ride too harsh...and pretty close to what I hand calculated as the appropriate rate for a built 3.0L I also very much like the build quality of Clayton, I think it is easily on par with MC. Overall, lots of good suspensions out there, but for me its going to be Clayton.

The easy choice for shocks would have been Falcon 3.3s, but even the SP2s are frequently critiqued for riding a bit harsh. With the high spring rate, I did not think Falcon's would be the right combination. Clayton recommends either Radflo or Fox for this suspension. I knew I couldn't go wrong with a set of Fox 2.5 DSC'...I run Fox on my Ram and love them. However, I was fascinated by Radflo. The more research I did, the more fascinated I became...in the end I decided to go with the Radflo 2.5" adjustable. I really like that Radflo hand builds each shock to order. This allows me to provide weights and usage and have them valve the shock specifically for my vehicle...though they are not the only company doing this, in combination with their reputation in the desert racing community and their great customer service it was what pushed them over the top.

Now, Radflo will cut shocks specifically to length for a charge...but offer precut for 2.5" - 3.0" inch lifts and 3.0" - 3.5". This should be a no-brainer. 2.5" suspension the right shocks are the 2.5" - 3.0". But it's not quite that simple. The Clayton diesel kit is brand new and even Clayton can't for certain tell me what actual lift I am going to get out of it. In comparison, MC 2.5s are frequently seeing 2.8 - 3.2 when put on. Radflo was very clear that the range is not just a guide...if my suspension sees 3.1, I need the 3.0 - 3.5 shock. So, currently the plan is to install the full suspension, measure gain and full travel range, then get the Radflo shock that fits. The problem is, as Radflo builds every shock to order, the wait time is around 8 weeks. This means I will essentially have to park my Jeep for two months waiting for shocks. I have asked my installer (OCD Offroad) about the possibility of just going with the 3.0 - 3.5 Radflo's and adding a .5" spacer if the Clayton is right at 2.5 or a little extra bump stop (to prevent the shock from topping out) if the lift is between 2.75 and 3.0. Will see where we go on this. I may be back in my Ram for most of the Spring.

But...overall, the decision is made. Clayton Suspension, Radflo shocks...now just need to get it done.
 
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Quick update.

The Jeep is still with OCD Offroad. The Clayton( @Clayton Off Road ) suspension is in. The look is great. Gained about 3 inches on the front and 2.5 on the rear. Levels it out perfectly. The flex is also outstanding. See pictures below.

We are chasing one problem. As installed the Clayton kit (with the recommended 3 inches of added bump) left me with only about 2 inches of up travel before hitting the bump. This would probably be fine for highway driving and would probably not present much of an issue for slow speed rock crawling as that is really more concerned with droop and articulation. However, when cruising at speed over rough terrain (like whoops or rough forest roads) up travel is really really important.

Fully compressed the tires (35s) were just under an inch below the fender liner. Meaning I could pull about 3/4 of an inch off the bump stop and get myself to just under 3 inches of up travel, if I was willing to put my tires right up into my fender and risk on a really hard hit (with compression of the bump stop) planting a tire firmly into my fender. I am not, and anyway I don't need 2 3/4 inches of up travel, I really need at a minimum of 4 and preferably 5.

So, we are going to skin the front and rear fenders. I ordered a set of Metal Cloak front inner fenders and braces. I really wanted AAL, but they are on back log and I was impatient. The rear I am going to leave linerless and just Line-X the inside area. Once those are in we are going to re-ramp it and see how much bump stop can be removed. If I can get down to 1 inch of bump stop, getting to just over 4 inches of up travel I will call it good ... order my shocks to match my new numbers and all will be good. If skinning the fenders only gets me an inch (taking me to 2 inches of bump stop) and just over 3 inches of up travel I will probably put in 1 or 1.5 inches of spacer. I am not all the excited to add spacer, nor do I really want the added height, but I can't have a vehicle that is going to be slamming into bump stops when I hit whoops or drive at speed on a rough road nor can I have a vehicle that is going to eat my fenders when I am crawling. So, that is the way forward.

The shock decision is also on hold. We ordered a set of MC long-travels as a temporary to get my Jeep up and running, as we can't make a final shock decision until we re-ramp and measure everything. Then, if I stick with RadFlo, it will be about 8 weeks of waiting to get them made. The concern I have here is that RadFlos are a bit long in the body. I am still waiting on specific numbers from them, but from what I have they appear to be over 19 inches fully collapsed. That may be long enough to require 2 inches of bump stop. If it is then, depending on my final set-up, I may have to select a shock with a shorter compressed length. So...decision left to make.


Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 177301509_6155870364438405_1209188709225811539_n


Jeep Wrangler JL Diesel Build - 2020 Sting-Gray JLURD 177020343_6155870367771738_9062301060603725137_n
 
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They make the Falcon 3.3 shocks for the Ecodiesel now, have you considered those? Compressed length is 17.9"

Never mind I see you did consider them.
 

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One thing we keep noticing about our ecodiesel is the lack of up-travel. We have the MC 2.5" GameChanger. I added the MC durospring bumpstops too. They help and are much cheaper than SpeedBumps or the offerings from King and Fox.

Another option for you might be wheels with less backspace? I can get my 37s pretty stuffed without much rub with only 1" bumpstops on each corner.

Jeep is looking great!
 
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One thing we keep noticing about our ecodiesel is the lack of up-travel. We have the MC 2.5" GameChanger. I added the MC durospring bumpstops too. They help and are much cheaper than SpeedBumps or the offerings from King and Fox.

Another option for you might be wheels with less backspace? I can get my 37s pretty stuffed without much rub with only 1" bumpstops on each corner.

Jeep is looking great!
Agree, have read multiple comments about lack of up-travel in diesels. The durospring bumpstops are definitely on my list. Going to do this in stages...try one thing, see what it gets me, then if that doesn't fix it, move to the next. The easiest...and probably the cheapest is skinning the fenders. I have read a few posts where people say they are seeing 2.5 - 3 inches of added clearance. I suspect that is maybe a bit of an overstatement. I am hoping to get 2. If I am able to get a full two, then I might just throw in .5 or 1 inch spacers ... that would put me at between 4 and 5 inches of up-travel. Will just have to see how it pans out. I am going to fix it, one way or the other.
 
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They make the Falcon 3.3 shocks for the Ecodiesel now, have you considered those? Compressed length is 17.9"

Never mind I see you did consider them.
I have, I really like the Falcons...will see. If the Radflo's don't work out I may give the Falcons a shot. The measurements I am seeing now from the first run on the ramp suggest I will need a shock that is under 19 inches, the closer to 18 the better, and extends out to at least 29 inches. I talked to the Radflo folks today and they are going to get me measurements early next week. I will go from there....don't really want to start the shock search all over again if I don't have to.
 

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Quick update.

The Jeep is still with OCD Offroad. The Clayton( @Clayton Off Road ) suspension is in. The look is great. Gained about 3 inches on the front and 2.5 on the rear. Levels it out perfectly. The flex is also outstanding. See pictures below.

We are chasing one problem. As installed the Clayton kit (with the recommended 3 inches of added bump) left me with only about 2 inches of up travel before hitting the bump. This would probably be fine for highway driving and would probably not present much of an issue for slow speed rock crawling as that is really more concerned with droop and articulation. However, when cruising at speed over rough terrain (like whoops or rough forest roads) up travel is really really important.

Fully compressed the tires (35s) were just under an inch below the fender liner. Meaning I could pull about 3/4 of an inch off the bump stop and get myself to just under 3 inches of up travel, if I was willing to put my tires right up into my fender and risk on a really hard hit (with compression of the bump stop) planting a tire firmly into my fender. I am not, and anyway I don't need 2 3/4 inches of up travel, I really need at a minimum of 4 and preferably 5.

So, we are going to skin the front and rear fenders. I ordered a set of Metal Cloak front inner fenders and braces. I really wanted AAL, but they are on back log and I was impatient. The rear I am going to leave linerless and just Line-X the inside area. Once those are in we are going to re-ramp it and see how much bump stop can be removed. If I can get down to 1 inch of bump stop, getting to just over 4 inches of up travel I will call it good ... order my shocks to match my new numbers and all will be good. If skinning the fenders only gets me an inch (taking me to 2 inches of bump stop) and just over 3 inches of up travel I will probably put in 1 or 1.5 inches of spacer. I am not all the excited to add spacer, nor do I really want the added height, but I can't have a vehicle that is going to be slamming into bump stops when I hit whoops or drive at speed on a rough road nor can I have a vehicle that is going to eat my fenders when I am crawling. So, that is the way forward.

The shock decision is also on hold. We ordered a set of MC long-travels as a temporary to get my Jeep up and running, as we can't make a final shock decision until we re-ramp and measure everything. Then, if I stick with RadFlo, it will be about 8 weeks of waiting to get them made. The concern I have here is that RadFlos are a bit long in the body. I am still waiting on specific numbers from them, but from what I have they appear to be over 19 inches fully collapsed. That may be long enough to require 2 inches of bump stop. If it is then, depending on my final set-up, I may have to select a shock with a shorter compressed length. So...decision left to make.


177301509_6155870364438405_1209188709225811539_n.jpg


177020343_6155870367771738_9062301060603725137_n.jpg
I too decided on Clayton (2.5 Ride Right lift - adding f/r bumps to the kit). Have been researching for well over a year. Also going with 35s...I have a 2018 JLUR Turbo. Ordered the kit a couple weeks ago. Have any more pics of your rig with the new lift? Thanks
 
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I too decided on Clayton (2.5 Ride Right lift - adding f/r bumps to the kit). Have been researching for well over a year. Also going with 35s...I have a 2018 JLUR Turbo. Ordered the kit a couple weeks ago. Have any more pics of your rig with the new lift? Thanks
Only this one....which I suspect is of no help, just a gratuitous pic of my Shepherd / Malinois mix that I have been looking for an excuse to post. Actually the jeep is still at OCD Offroad. It has no shocks at the moment. We are waiting for a set of temporary shocks (M/C rocksports) and M/C inner fenders. Once that is here and in (next couple weeks) it will be drivable and I will post more pics along with measurements and all that kind of stuff.

When is your Clayton kit due in?

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Dudley Dawson

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Only this one....which I suspect is of no help, just a gratuitous pic of my Shepherd / Malinois mix that I have been looking for an excuse to post. Actually the jeep is still at OCD Offroad. It has no shocks at the moment. We are waiting for a set of temporary shocks (M/C rocksports) and M/C inner fenders. Once that is here and in (next couple weeks) it will be drivable and I will post more pics along with measurements and all that kind of stuff.

When is your Clayton kit due in?
Beautiful dog! Copy all - I’ll be standing by. I’m working with Dirt Nerds in Sterling. They said to expect 3-4 weeks wait on the Clayton lift.
 
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Themistocles

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Beautiful dog! Copy all - I’ll be standing by. I’m working with Dirt Nerds in Sterling. They said to expect 3-4 weeks wait on the Clayton lift.
Thanks...that's about what my wait was as well, pretty close to a month, maybe just a bit more, but the extra was, I think, related to diesel issues.

The big issues are shock selection and inner fenders/liners. If you can / have the desire, my recommendation would be to order inner fenders now (AAL is my favorite but they are back ordered) and even if they aren't in yet, before you take your jeep in, strip out the OEM fender liners/inner fender then have the shop install the Clayton suspension. This will prevent multiple ramp runs and all the shop time that comes with dialing in your suspension with the OEM parts...and then doing it again with the aftermarket fender liners. Really the Clayton is so flexy that to get to it's full potential you have to pull the factory inner fenders/fender liners.

For shocks, as it sits now, with factory fender liners/inner fenders, I am at about 21 inches minimum compressed length and about 30 inches at full droop (at the shock not at the tire). I suspect that is going to go to about 19.0 or 20 and 31 - 32 once we have the new fenders in. Once we have those final numbers we will order shocks from Radflo that will be custom made for the lengths needed, weight, and planned use of my Jeep. If you have shocks that are longer than 21 inches compressed you will likely need more bump stop to keep them from topping out, and if they are shorter than 30 inches fully extended they well probably restrict you droop.
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