Deciding on a 2.5 or 3.5 inch RC Lift Kit. Or am I?

[AJCFLA68]

Alright before anyone starts trashing the Rough Country kits, being in South Florida I do not have mountains or real challenging trails so I'm not gonna spend $10k on a lift. I do light trails when I visit the family in Central Florida, and that's it. I've had lifted Jeeps before, but this is my first 2 door. I personally think the RC 2.5 lift barely moves it up, at least from pics I've seen. I have Nitto Ridge Grapplers (305x70x17) which supposedly are 34's so I'm leaning towards the 3.5 inch kit since it's easier to go up to 35's when these tires wear out, not 37's. Now, my question is, do I need to replace the control arms or can I use the control arm drop brackets? And do I need to replace the driveshaft? The kits range from $750 to $1350 and I'm leaning towards the 3.5 @ $750 ($1500 installed, total). If the 2 items in question can be changed out later, if necessary, I don't see why I'd spend an additional $1500 more up front. And I think replacing the driveshaft might cause issues with any warranty claims since the dealer might mention I messed with it.....that's a different topic on this site, so not addressing it now. As you've figure out already, yes I'm going 3.5...but the 2 items in question will determine which kit. Hoping to see any pics of 34's with the RC 2.5 and 3.5 kits to get a better feel. I know there are tons of pics here with other kits such as Mopar, but I'm not paying that crazy amount..anything Mopar is overpriced and no guarantee a dealer won't fight a claim anyways. Yes, I like the look of a lifted Jeep and 99% of the time it's on the road as a daily driver.

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[Reinen]

Geometry matters. 3.5" will drive poorly without extending control arms (caster will be too low) and track bars (axles will be visibly shifted to driver side in front, passenger side in rear). 2.5" will do the same thing but to less of a degree where you are more able to get away with it. Since you're on-road and not rock crawling, driveshafts should be fine.

Bottom line, there's more to it than just pics. Just replacing springs/shocks for lift will negatively effect handling & steering which will be most noticeable on-road.

 

[AJCFLA68]

Thanks…that’s what the installer mentioned, but I was hoping it was more of a sales pitch. I knew eventually I would change these, but was hoping to put it off. Might as well save up and do all at once. I’d still like to see some pics…

 

[Reinen]

Thanks…that’s what the installer mentioned, but I was hoping it was more of a sales pitch. I knew eventually I would change these, but was hoping to put it off. Might as well save up and do all at once. I’d still like to see some pics…

That's a good installer giving you very valid warnings. If they were out to take your money they would just do what you ask and force you into buying the rest once you see for yourself how badly it drives.

 

[SadRobot]

My first lift for my JL was an RC 2.5" lift (springs and shocks). I say my first because it didn't last very long. The rear shocks started to sag after a few months and driving on the road was horrible. I also went up from stock to 33s which also didn't last long because they looked ridiculously tiny with the lift.

I trashed that "lift" and put in an EVO 2.5" lift with all 8 control arms and adjustable track bars.

In retrospect I would have saved up the money and done a Metalcloak 3.5" lift with 37s from the start. I've wasted thousands of dollars in crappy lifts and small tires. Don't be me.

 

[AJCFLA68]

That’s why I started my thread with that statement, because deep down I know RC is not the best even if I’m not doing rock crawling…eventually they will need to be replaced so why spend the money…now, the main problem, is to convince my wife that I have to spend a couple thousand extra…I actually went to the dealer trying to trade it in for a 4 door, but love the 2 door and how it drives. I grew up on 2 doors and have fond memories…but I’d consider using that $3K or more on a down payment for the 4 door.…tough decision ahead.. thanks for the replies and making me realize I need to do it right if I decide to keep the 2 door…

 

[SadRobot]

That’s why I started my thread with that statement, because deep down I know RC is not the best even if I’m not doing rock crawling…eventually they will need to be replaced so why spend the money…now, the main problem, is to convince my wife that I have to spend a couple thousand extra…I actually went to the dealer trying to trade it in for a 4 door, but love the 2 door and how it drives. I grew up on 2 doors and have fond memories…but I’d consider using that $3K or more on a down payment for the 4 door.…tough decision ahead.. thanks for the replies and making me realize I need to do it right if I decide to keep the 2 door…

Especially on a 2-door quality lift is important. As soon as you add any lift at all you are going to feel everything more with the shorter wheelbase. Even with the full lift kit I have I get tossed around a lot more than my 4-door counterparts.

That being said I'd never go 4door. I test drove one and it's like driving a large boat around. Too much vehicle. I love my 2dr.

 

[AJCFLA68]

Yeah, I think I was frustrated when I said I’d trade it in…already went and walked away…but, might consider the 2.5 instead. Would I be able to add to it later if I decide to? I’d like to settle on 3 inches total…there seems to be more 2.5’s than 3 inch lifts, at least in a decent price range.

 

[SadRobot]

Yeah, I think I was frustrated when I said I’d trade it in…already went and walked away…but, might consider the 2.5 instead. Would I be able to add to it later if I decide to? I’d like to settle on 3 inches total…there seems to be more 2.5’s than 3 inch lifts, at least in a decent price range.

I think 2.5 is as high as you want to go without also doing new driveshafts and extending brake lines. Some else here may be able to verify that though.

 

[AJCFLA68]

Do I still need the control arms on a 2.5? I don’t want it driving like crap either, but if I can put that off just means I can lift it sooner.

 

[hoag4147]

Yeah, I think I was frustrated when I said I’d trade it in…already went and walked away…but, might consider the 2.5 instead. Would I be able to add to it later if I decide to? I’d like to settle on 3 inches total…there seems to be more 2.5’s than 3 inch lifts, at least in a decent price range.

Okay. How about this thought. Throw a 2.5” spacer kit on with shock extensions but at same time replace front lower control arms with a good pair of adjustable arms and a good adjustable track bar. This would give you the height your looking for and can continue to use LCAs and TB if you decide to swap out springs in future. Could sell the spacer lift to offset some of the cost.

 

[AJCFLA68]

Not a bad thought…gonna price it as I’m sure will be cheaper up front…thanks for that

 

[Zandcwhite]

Assuming you're buying the 3.5" kit that comes with the drop brackets, rear track bar relocation bracket, and front track bar the geometry will be fine. 3.5" is a lot for 35s and a lot for a 2 door in general. We only run 3.5" on our JLUR on 39s. I only run 2" on my JT mojave on 37s. If you're only going to 35s I'd go for the 2.5" kit.

 

[AJCFLA68]

Here's what the RC ($750) 3.5 ($1500 total cost installed) brings....even though I'm considering the 2.5 now, I prefer the 3.5 higher look. I've seen some pics with 35's and I like it...I'm sure it's only about an inch higher than my measurements (34's), but I personally don't like the stuffed look, especially on a 2 door. Gotta say the 2.5 will save me easily $600-700 on average, but like the installer said...don't settle...if you like the look, do it and spend money once......Would I need the rear track bar relocation bracket? Forgot to add, planning on adding a DV8 bumper later on which I think is 75 pounds....

Front:

• Adjustable Track Bar
• Lower Control Arm Drop Brackets
• Side Control Arm Drop Brackets
• Lifted Coil Springs
• Sway Bar Links
• Bump Stops

Rear:

• Lifted Coil Springs
• Sway Bar Links
• Track Bar Bracket
• Bump Stops

Shocks:

• Front & Rear N3 Shocks

 

[Old Jeeper]

Alright before anyone starts trashing the Rough Country kits, being in South Florida I do not have mountains or real challenging trails so I'm not gonna spend $10k on a lift. I do light trails when I visit the family in Central Florida, and that's it. I've had lifted Jeeps before, but this is my first 2 door. I personally think the RC 2.5 lift barely moves it up, at least from pics I've seen. I have Nitto Ridge Grapplers (305x70x17) which supposedly are 34's so I'm leaning towards the 3.5 inch kit since it's easier to go up to 35's when these tires wear out, not 37's. Now, my question is, do I need to replace the control arms or can I use the control arm drop brackets? And do I need to replace the driveshaft? The kits range from $750 to $1350 and I'm leaning towards the 3.5 @ $750 ($1500 installed, total). If the 2 items in question can be changed out later, if necessary, I don't see why I'd spend an additional $1500 more up front. And I think replacing the driveshaft might cause issues with any warranty claims since the dealer might mention I messed with it.....that's a different topic on this site, so not addressing it now. As you've figure out already, yes I'm going 3.5...but the 2 items in question will determine which kit. Hoping to see any pics of 34's with the RC 2.5 and 3.5 kits to get a better feel. I know there are tons of pics here with other kits such as Mopar, but I'm not paying that crazy amount..anything Mopar is overpriced and no guarantee a dealer won't fight a claim anyways. Yes, I like the look of a lifted Jeep and 99% of the time it's on the road as a daily driver.

If I were you I would go with a take from the 392s w/35s. ALl the components are OEM and they will give you all the lift you need here in FL and still get out to Moab and do some of the more difficult trails at the 6/7 level./

The cost is LOW!

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