Death Wobble - Clayton Lift

[545moose]

What is your tire pressure? Death Wobble is often mistaken when it is another issue. Over inflated tires are one such issue where people think it is DW.

Also the Clayton Lift is good for both on and off road use. So that is not going to be the issue. Installation may be the issue however. You said it had a new lift installed when you bought it? Who installed it? Also did they check all the bolts/nuts and ensure everything is torque'd to spec at the off-road shop?

I'm no expert here but there's a lot of good info. Where are the torque values found, or can you find an electronic FSM? Also I've seen a few threads where the AEV steering damper fixed a DW, just another thing to check. Definitely having extra hands to have a helper turn the wheel and get underneath and give it a full look and see what you find. Also keep looking for a shop that's good to YOU. I went through a number with my old GX and cut out a lot of lazy places that either wouldn't or didn't want to work much cause it was lift, modified, rainy, a Thursday, etc. Lots of excuses and hard to find a good solid shop period.

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[roaniecowpony]

Shimmy or DW happens when the steering/suspension system natural (ocillation) frequencies of the masses involved, (mainly the rotating tire/wheel/brake/hub) and the opposing mass, (mainly the axle assembly) come together and then are excited by a road bump or such.

Things that change the natural frequency of these two major masses are stiffness of the suspension/steering, the weight of each of these two major masses, and the rotating speed of the tire/wheel/brake assy. That's why rigs with large heavy tires are more susceptable to shimmy/DW and why it happens at or above certain speeds.

No steering/suspension system is infinitely stiff. It doesn't have to be. It just has to be stiff enough for the masses and speeds involved. Stiff enough to move the natural ocillation frequency above the speeds the vehicle is driven.

Lower tire pressure can act like a steering damper, IMO.

 

[EbyCreek]

I'm no expert here but there's a lot of good info. Where are the torque values found, or can you find an electronic FSM? Also I've seen a few threads where the AEV steering damper fixed a DW, just another thing to check. Definitely having extra hands to have a helper turn the wheel and get underneath and give it a full look and see what you find. Also keep looking for a shop that's good to YOU. I went through a number with my old GX and cut out a lot of lazy places that either wouldn't or didn't want to work much cause it was lift, modified, rainy, a Thursday, etc. Lots of excuses and hard to find a good solid shop period.

 

[545moose]

Is there a manual anywhere? Besides the E-Owners manual?

 

[hondolane]

Ok… I’m still at this! In it to win it now…. Vroom sucks but at least they gave me some good cash towards parts to make this right. So far did an install of Yeti XD trackbar, draglink, tie rod, sector shaft race, and stabilizer relocation along with Synergy Ball Joints.

Wrapped up install and wanted to settle the suspension by putting Jeep and ride height with weight on all four tires so I could break torque, bounce Jeep and re-torque to make sure unknown installer didn’t preload bushing by doing improper torque.

This is where I found a potential problem. I found several cracked and half missing spacer washers between the bushings of the control arms and the mounting points.


Could this cause my DW? Or at least contribute to it? What would cause this? Can I make new ones on my CNC plasma table and move on? I’m going to contact Clayton about it. There wouldn’t be a reason for split lock washer to be there so they definitely are cracks

Top photo already has torque broke and control arm loose that is why there is a space between spacer and frame.

 

[JLAFAKASI]

Good advice above. I have an “entry” Clayton lift on 35s and Fox shocks - many miles with no issues at all. But even their most basic kits include front and rear track bars (and they are robust with quality bushings). You mentioned lower arms so I’m assuming it’s a full kit (8 arms etc.). Hard to know without more details. As alluded to above, possible the kit wasn’t torqued to spec. A lot of potential culprits. Heck, I had the steering damper recall performed on my Jeep and the dealer installed it upside down. First expansion joint I hit on the interstate I got major steering wheel shimmy (often mistaken for DW).

you still running on the clayton lift? What shocks did you pair it with? Would you say the lift is good at taking hits. I want to run the dunes.

 

[RubiRob]

Ok… I’m still at this! In it to win it now…. Vroom sucks but at least they gave me some good cash towards parts to make this right. So far did an install of Yeti XD trackbar, draglink, tie rod, sector shaft race, and stabilizer relocation along with Synergy Ball Joints.

Wrapped up install and wanted to settle the suspension by putting Jeep and ride height with weight on all four tires so I could break torque, bounce Jeep and re-torque to make sure unknown installer didn’t preload bushing by doing improper torque.

This is where I found a potential problem. I found several cracked and half missing spacer washers between the bushings of the control arms and the mounting points.


Could this cause my DW? Or at least contribute to it? What would cause this? Can I make new ones on my CNC plasma table and move on? I’m going to contact Clayton about it. There wouldn’t be a reason for split lock washer to be there so they definitely are cracks

Top photo already has torque broke and control arm loose that is why there is a space between spacer and frame.

There are no washers that go in between the bracket and bushing so that crack is most likely part of the bushing. How bad of a death wobble is this? As bad as what you see on YouTube or less serious?

 

[hondolane]

Ok… problem solved. Finally had a chance to sit down and write something up. Hate it when a thread makes progress the. The OP disappears.

Here is what worked for my situation. Installed all new Steer Smarts steering tie rod, drag, and trackbar. All Yeti XD.

Installed a SS sector shaft brace. Noticed my OEM mount was tweaked a little upon install.

Added new set of synergy all metal non-adjustable ball joints.

Clayton provided the new steel washers that cover ends of the bushings.

Broke torque on all control arms. Re-Torqued to Clayton spec after rocking and settling suspension so no bushing preload.

Toe set to 1/8” out on both side for 1/4” out.

Jeep is ROCK solid. Steers straight and true. Not even a shimmy now. DW was chirping tires before all of this.

Couldn’t have done it without your help. Help from Steer Smarts and Clayton.

 

[RubiRob]

Ok… problem solved. Finally had a chance to sit down and write something up. Hate it when a thread makes progress the. The OP disappears.

Here is what worked for my situation. Installed all new Steer Smarts steering tie rod, drag, and trackbar. All Yeti XD.

Installed a SS sector shaft brace. Noticed my OEM mount was tweaked a little upon install.

Added new set of synergy all metal non-adjustable ball joints.

Clayton provided the new steel washers that cover ends of the bushings.

Broke torque on all control arms. Re-Torqued to Clayton spec after rocking and settling suspension so no bushing preload.

Toe set to 1/8” out on both side for 1/4” out.

Jeep is ROCK solid. Steers straight and true. Not even a shimmy now. DW was chirping tires before all of this.

Couldn’t have done it without your help. Help from Steer Smarts and Clayton.

Can you elaborate on the washers? I’m not aware of washers?

 

[hondolane]

 

[RubiRob]

Ahh gotcha. Sorry about that. Did you install all the steersmarts stuff at once? Was there one thing more than the other has improved it more than the other?

 

[KNN]

Jeep is ROCK solid. Steers straight and true. Not even a shimmy now. DW was chirping tires before all of this.

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