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Death Wobble after Mopar LCA install

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I did not see anything in this post mentioned about an alignment being done after replacing the lower control arms.... A proper alignment check would show everything that needs to be adjusted or replaced.
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coukos34

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I did not see anything in this post mentioned about an alignment being done after replacing the lower control arms.... A proper alignment check would show everything that needs to be adjusted or replaced.
I was under the impression that an alignment would only be needed on adjustable LCA’s, and not fixed ones like the Mopar?
 

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I was under the impression that an alignment would only be needed on adjustable LCA’s, and not fixed ones like the Mopar?
Technically speaking putting new fixed control arms on would not need an alignment. The posted was saying that because you were having problems so it's always a good idea to make sure the alignment is in spec.
 
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coukos34

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I bought the Yeti TB, and have to go back to the dealer this Thursday for a radio replacement. Going to have them check the front end components at that time.
 

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Make sure you loosen and tighten the LCA and UCA bolts at ride height. If this was never done the bushings could be toast from having “load” twisted into them slightly. Same with the track bar bushings. Especially stock style bushings. It happens pretty quick and may have been amplified with your slightly longer LCA’s making the UCA bushings even worse. Death wobble is usually track bar bushings on newer vehicles.
Happened on my XJ and learned my lesson. On my WJ I tightened at ride height and have been fine for 10 years.
 

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I was under the impression that an alignment would only be needed on adjustable LCA’s, and not fixed ones like the Mopar?
You are right, you shouldn't need an alignment because they are fixed length. The only thing that is adjustable is the toe setting and that shouldn't have changed. However, like you, I changed some things (mine was drag link and track bar) and ever since have had some DW. Curious what you find out. I've torqued everything and checked everything and had 2 alignments. So confusing. Makes for uncomfortable driving experience.
 

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You are right, you shouldn't need an alignment because they are fixed length. The only thing that is adjustable is the toe setting and that shouldn't have changed. However, like you, I changed some things (mine was drag link and track bar) and ever since have had some DW. Curious what you find out. I've torqued everything and checked everything and had 2 alignments. So confusing. Makes for uncomfortable driving experience.
What TB and DL are you using?
 

Halstem1

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I'd call them. You be seeing the exact opposite.
oh, I have. Long story there. But I've been assured by manufacterer and others that isn't the cause... If I hadn't destroyed my factory drag link boot, i'd put the original back in and test that theory.
 

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mgroeger

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oh, I have. Long story there. But I've been assured by manufacterer and others that isn't the cause... If I hadn't destroyed my factory drag link boot, i'd put the original back in and test that theory.
That boot will not effect anything, you can put it back on and test it out. I wouldn't run it like that since that boot is keep dirt out but if you just need to test it I would slap it on.
 
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Halstem1

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That boot will not effect anything, you can put it back on and test it out. I wouldn't run it like that since that boot is keep dirt out but if you just need to test it I would slap it on.
Interesting... I might do that. I assumed it was FUBAR'd I never adjusted the tie rod when I removed it, so the toe setting should be the same as factory, right?
 

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Interesting... I might do that. I assumed it was FUBAR'd I never adjusted the tie rod when I removed it, so the toe setting should be the same as factory, right?
Oh it's FUBAR'd... lol but the joint itself should not have been damaged when you took a pickle fork to it as long as you didn't go bat *hit crazy on it.
If you literally DID NOT loosen the tie rod nut and move the end then you would be OK. That would be a great test to prove to Synergy it's the new components.
I am running all Steer Smarts on my Jeep and Steer Smarts and a Teraflex TB on the Mrs. Jeep and it's tight. Literally tighter than a stock loaner I am driving right now while hers is in the shop.
 
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coukos34

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Make sure you loosen and tighten the LCA and UCA bolts at ride height. If this was never done the bushings could be toast from having “load” twisted into them slightly. Same with the track bar bushings. Especially stock style bushings. It happens pretty quick and may have been amplified with your slightly longer LCA’s making the UCA bushings even worse. Death wobble is usually track bar bushings on newer vehicles.
Happened on my XJ and learned my lesson. On my WJ I tightened at ride height and have been fine for 10 years.
Thanks, this is good info. If it’s usually track bar bushings, then hopefully when I swap in the Yeti with new bushing we’re all good. Otherwise hopefully the dealer finds a bad bushing somewhere. I really need to get proper tools to do this myself. I’ve just burnt myself out in my younger years working on underbody bolts. It’s the worst, especially in a places like New England.
 

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oh, I have. Long story there. But I've been assured by manufacterer and others that isn't the cause... If I hadn't destroyed my factory drag link boot, i'd put the original back in and test that theory.
From my experience(Of course there there are manufacturing flaws in everything) I can’t see the drag link being your issue because it is so much more stout than the stock drag link. With my stock drag link I had to adjust it after every time going off-road. With the synergy one I have not had to adjust it once after and I’m talking about getting into tough situations where it took all my strength just to get the wheels to turn.
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