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Death Wobble 2020 JL Sahara - Gonna be a gong show I can tell...

gato

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Thanks for the post. It's frustrating that the dealer puts in a new steering gear - then - the alignment goes out and they say well that's because of the death wobble - which is caused by aftermarket parts - so we will not do an alignment for you now.

appreciate the post

I'm kind of willing to even pay out of pocket to the aftermarket shop to just do all the work as needed (if there's anything besides the LCA) just because I honestly trust them more than the dealer at this point.
You don't necessarily need an alignment (assuming they didn't mess with any the links. You can center the wheel yourself by loosening (prob is already loose) the clamp on the drag link and turning the adjustment a few turns. It is very easy and will take 5 min. There is no need to lift the vehicle or remove anything.

When I first got into Wranglers that was the first thing I tackled on my own, as the steering whent off center on a road trip and tripped the traction control. Freaking off-road shop had left the adjuster only finger tight. Get that corrected and try driving it again.
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McGilli

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You don't necessarily need an alignment (assuming they didn't mess with any the links. You can center the wheel yourself by loosening (prob is already loose) the clamp on the drag link and turning the adjustment a few turns. It is very easy and will take 5 min. There is no need to lift the vehicle or remove anything.
Thank you for this. I didn't know it was that easy.

I didn't have a second person, but I will later today and try again.

I got under there, loosened the 15mm bolt, and turned the sleeve a about a full rotation - in 1/4 increments - - getting up and checking the wheel after every 1/4 turn but I couldn't see any difference in the position of the steering wheel.

Maybe you just need to turn it more. I didn't want to mess anything on my first try LOL

regardless, watched a few videos now and thanks again for mentioning how easy it is - definitely something I need to be able to do on my own.
 

gato

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Thank you for this. I didn't know it was that easy.

I didn't have a second person, but I will later today and try again.

I got under there, loosened the 15mm bolt, and turned the sleeve a about a full rotation - in 1/4 increments - - getting up and checking the wheel after every 1/4 turn but I couldn't see any difference in the position of the steering wheel.

Maybe you just need to turn it more. I didn't want to mess anything on my first try LOL

regardless, watched a few videos now and thanks again for mentioning how easy it is - definitely something I need to be able to do on my own.
Yes - you need to turn a lot more - takes a few turns to move it appreciably.

You don't need a second person. Drive the vehicle so that it is tracking straight. Turn it off without toughing the steering wheel. Go to the drag link adjuster one turn, go back and and look at the steering wheel. Repeat until it is centered. (There is a steering angle indicator on some models, but I found those to be harder to use).

Once centered, tighten the clamp a bit. Drive it on a straight road. Note if any further adjustment is needed. If not tighten completely to torque specs, done. You traction control light should clear.

good luck.
 
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McGilli

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Once centered, tighten the clamp a bit. Drive it on a straight road. Note if any further adjustment is needed. If not tighten completely to torque specs, done. You traction control light should clear.
Thanks that actually answers something fo me... Which is can you drive it if the drag link bolt isn't completely tightened - so much easier...

Appreciate it.
 

gato

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Thanks that actually answers something fo me... Which is can you drive it if the drag link bolt isn't completely tightened - so much easier...

Appreciate it.
Yes, you can. You need it snug, and don't drive too long or on too bumpy a road, just to fine tune it. You only need a couple hundred feet to tell if it is perfectly straight. But then done, fully tighten it else it will turn on its own.
 

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McGilli

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Just an update...

I've had new :

Tie Rod
Drag Link
Steering Stabilizer
Alignment

And this is my first drive home with all of that just installed:

 

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Have you upgraded the front track bar? With a 3.5” lift you definitely need an adjustable front track bar. I read that you have aftermarket front lower control arms. Do you have a printout of your alignment that you can post or tell us what your caster is? All of the upper and lower ball joints are torqued to spec?
 
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Have you upgraded the front track bar? With a 3.5” lift you definitely need an adjustable front track bar. I read that you have aftermarket front lower control arms. Do you have a printout of your alignment that you can post or tell us what your caster is? All of the upper and lower ball joints are torqued to spec?
adjustable track bar was done with the suspension a year ago…

i have some posts in the updated steering TSB thread with photos of my alignment results 8 months ago…

originally caster was 2.5 but I then had it changed to about 6 on recommendation of people with regards to loose steering.

I did just have the alignment done a few days ago after new parts put in let me all for the numbers…
 

mwilk012

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Man, something is way out of whack there. Have you looked under the Jeep yet to see what is actually new? With that many new parts, something has to be installed wrong.

Does it make any horrible noises when it starts to shake?
 

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adjustable track bar was done with the suspension a year ago…

i have some posts in the updated steering TSB thread with photos of my alignment results 8 months ago…

originally caster was 2.5 but I then had it changed to about 6 on recommendation of people with regards to loose steering.

I did just have the alignment done a few days ago after new parts put in let me all for the numbers…
That’s likely ball joints, how many miles on it ?
 

The Last Cowboy

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Agreed, the factory ball joints should be replaced when a lift kit is installed. Just factor in that cost as it doesn't cost much in the scheme of things. Once the plastic on them wears you will always get death wobble.

Also, the axle needs to be centered. Lifts will cause the axle to move off center. Any offset will add stress that can help induce DW. The adjustable track bar is what will help you center the axle. It should not have been st to the same length as the factory track bar since you have a lift.
 

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Agreed, the factory ball joints should be replaced when a lift kit is installed. Just factor in that cost as it doesn't cost much in the scheme of things. Once the plastic on them wears you will always get death wobble.

Also, the axle needs to be centered. Lifts will cause the axle to move off center. Any offset will add stress that can help induce DW. The adjustable track bar is what will help you center the axle. It should not have been st to the same length as the factory track bar since you have a lift.
How much are people paying for ball joint installation?
 

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I had death wobble in my 2019 turns out I had a air bubble in my Steering stabilizer shock and I had the steering box replaced and that fixed it
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