That is true, even a manual boost controller can give a noticeable increase in power. But, from someone who is very familiar with turbo engines. With a turbo comes a LOT of heat, & with the batteries & all with that 2.0L, I don't see where a turbo would be good for a rock crawler. Now, for pre-runners, track, or something where fresh air is constantly moving over & through is best on a turbo engine. My turbo car is mid engine & at an autocross I have to raise the engine lid & stick a box fan on top of the strut tower bars to cool everything down before making another run. Because when that turbo heats everything up, the engine computer will pull timing (& up the fuel pressure) to keep knock at bay & that robes you of that extra power. Delicate balance for sure.in reality the turbo'd engine out will be easily increased a LOT, more boost with proper fueling + timing adjustments can easily add 50 hp + torque on a modern direct injected turbo'd engine!!! free flowing exhaust will allow quicker + a bit mote boost even without an ECU tune!
That's for sure. Good fluids are a necessity. I was just thinking of the heat under the hood, that is what will wear out the belts & hoses & help the computer to retard timing to control knock.a well designed turbo'd engine will have oil + water cooled turbo's + an after run water pump, otherwize idle it to let things cool while the fan + oil circulates. on that last note the very best oils to handle high heat + prevent coking are ester based + RedLine's products come to mind, also as temps increase oils continue to thin past the warm spec given @ 100C here again a true synthetic group IV PAO + or Ester oil thins less as the heat rises + if you need to DON'T be afraid to use higher viscosity oils, BMW specs a 10W60 because they believe their owners will use the car as intended, track days included!!