Dealer wants $660 to change differential fluid

[CarbonSteel]

The very nature of axle operation and the shearing forces that are at work tends to keep the particles in suspension versus settling out, though magnetic drain plugs help capture some of that metal as noted in the before/after photos of my rear axle drain plug (both OEM plugs are magnetic). At 5K, my Rubicon had not been off-road, yet, the UOA had the most iron of any axle test I have performed. I say this not to dismiss your thoughts, but to reinforce them--I would do more frequent OCIs no matter what the use case is.

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[HamiltonGuy]

DIY Transfer Case & Differential Oil Change. It is very simple to do yourself, and will save you over $400!!! What could you do with that $400...for your Jeep?!

 

[VNT]

Very easy, they quote high and folks who dont know better pay it as part of a service. My neighbor had a 911 and he told me about the wallet flushes err services. 2000$ service for oil changes and some filters, ridculous.

Carbon Steel, how did you add thermo couples for temp guages to the axles, and thanks for sharing your Oil Test results.

I agree with you, changing the fluids a few times early gets the break in metals that shed out. I also use the Redline 75W-140 and have the Amsoil 75w-110, cant go wrong with either.

I am glad they have the plugs to drain them, on my Durango and WJ have to remove the covers. I did that a few time and it is a PITA, now I pump them out with mighty vac but the gears were broken long ago.

I did my rubicon this weekend, took maybe an hour to do both diffs and T-case. A lot of pearl in the rear diff and T-case, also paste on the magnets, front not so bad, just a little paste and the fluid more amber colored. Assume driving in rear drive and no load doesnt cause much wear on the front gears. Will dump them all again at 5000 miles or so.

On my WJ for Sch B severe service hey recommend 12K mile intervals on the gear lubes and 24K on the Transfer Case

 

[CarbonSteel]

Very easy, they quote high and folks who dont know better pay it as part of a service. My neighbor had a 911 and he told me about the wallet flushes err services. 2000$ service for oil changes and some filters, ridculous.

Carbon Steel, how did you add thermo couples for temp guages to the axles, and thanks for sharing your Oil Test results.

I agree with you, changing the fluids a few times early gets the break in metals that shed out. I also use the Redline 75W-140 and have the Amsoil 75w-110, cant go wrong with either.

I am glad they have the plugs to drain them, on my Durango and WJ have to remove the covers. I did that a few time and it is a PITA, now I pump them out with mighty vac but the gears were broken long ago.

I did my rubicon this weekend, took maybe an hour to do both diffs and T-case. A lot of pearl in the rear diff and T-case, also paste on the magnets, front not so bad, just a little paste and the fluid more amber colored. Assume driving in rear drive and no load doesnt cause much wear on the front gears. Will dump them all again at 5000 miles or so.

The FAD is the reason the front does not generate much metal--the driveshaft and ring/pinion gears do not turn while in 4x2 mode.

 

[VNT]

CS, I know that, no load on the gears, guess if I had it off road or 4PT in the snow, would be different,
Note my magnets for the rear diff M220 in a Rubiocon looked similiar to the pic you have, and only 1100 miles of local use and some highway.

 

[Steevr]

Another great DIY video if it hasn't been posted already.

 

[JRod]

I had a dealership recommend this service at 40k miles, but it was front and rear differentials, plus transfer case fluid for $350.

 

[VNT]

Jrod go order some Amsoil, do a preferred customer account and get the discount, buy a pump 10$ at walmart and save some money for beer. If you can change engine oil you can change the gear oil and t-case fluid in these.

 

[JRod]

@VNT yeah I did it myself. I was just surprised mine was asking $300 less, I figured dealerships would all be about the same.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Carbon Steel, how did you add thermocouples for temp gauges to the axles, and thanks for sharing your Oil Test results.

@VNT - sorry I missed seeing this before. Have a look at this thread and it will give you an idea. I have MC covers to install in the near future and the rear sensor location is fine and works well. I have not been in 4x4 enough to know if the front location is optimum since the oil is pushed under the pinion gear versus over the top as the rear does and I am not sure if enough will hit the sensor mounted at the top. I could elect to use the fill plug hole as the sensor mount, but then I will need to fabricate some shields to protect them.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/my-next-project-axle-temperature-gauges.41835/

 

[Pig-Pen]

i think im going to get some Amsoil. i use that in my gt500's engine. i know its the best stuff. just didnt think it would end up costing the same as Royal Purple on sale at Pep Boys lol.

my question to those running Amsoil, who also have LSD, are you adding friction modifier?

 

[CarbonSteel]

my question to those running Amsoil, who also have LSD, are you adding friction modifier?

FM should not be required with Amsoil as it already contains it. I would give it a try without to see if you experience any chatter. If you do, add a little at a time because too much FM can cause the clutches to slip too much and essentially become an "open" differential.

 

[Pig-Pen]

FM should not be required with Amsoil as it already contains it. I would give it a try without to see if you experience any chatter. If you do, add a little at a time because too much FM can cause the clutches to slip too much and essentially become an "open" differential.

grr.... lol

is chatter bad? or just a nuisance?

thanks for your input sir

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