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Dealer rip-off

sf5211

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In my 39 years of driving, I’ve never forged water so maybe changing these fluids doesn’t apply to me.
I however have never changed differential fluid, manual transmission fluid, brake fluid or transfer case fluid and still never had a problem.
I also don’t beat the crap out of my vehicles.
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sconrad24

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Before I go in for service, I check the manual. If its not on the manual or Im not having an issue, I do not get their "suggestions." There was a few times in a row where the service adviser advised that I do their fuel system cleaner. I kept declining. Finally one time I had him explain exactly what it was. When he was done, I said "oh that sounds like the techron I ran through my tank 500 miles before I brought it in today." I hasn't come up again. Have them explain what the induction service is. If they say they just run cleaner through the tank, pass. You can get techron or some other cleaner at autozone and do right before your next oil change. Your jeep shouldnt need it unless you have been running no name gas. Do your brakes fell spongey or less responsive? If not, I'd pass on the flush. The differentials are different. Do you know for sure that they looked in them? 30K is about halfway through its change interval. For piece of mind you can have it done. That seems like the going price. For about $40 total and a couple hours you can do it yourself like others have said. The main thing that takes time is waiting for the oil to fully drain. I had mine done at 30k right after I bought the jku, and I did the 60k service myself. And im not that mechanically inclined, so its pretty easy.
 

goochman

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The induction service is just them putting a gas additive into your tank. A few years back I had a $35 credit at a dealership and they offered a $90 induction service on my '09 Sahara. When I inquired about it they described something that would require time for the mechanic to go in and check things/clean them out. Literally 15 mins after I walked away from the service desk they told me my jeep was ready. There was a wet "black" spot in the gas filler area which indicated something was put into the tank and a drop was missed. Thats all they did. I think moving forward the public caught on and the "induction service" isnt pushed/listed on their menu anymore.
 

Deviant

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They fed me.the same.lone of shit. It was obvious when I did the diff oil they had never even looked at it. And a brake flush at your first service? Full on bullshit.
 

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west tex

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2020 Wrangler JLUR, 3.6L, 8 speed auto, 33,000 miles.

I was at the dealer today for my Wave service. (Oil and filter change).

I was told that I needed to have both differentials flushed as the oil was black. $189.95 for each axle.
This Rubicon has lockers, and I don't know if that makes it harder on the oil. I've used the lockers twice.
Does this sound like a ripoff?

Also, they tell me that I need induction service for $219.95.

Lastly, they tell me I need a brake flush for $189.95.

I appreciate any thoughts on this. I would guess I don't need any of it, please help.

Thanks,

Sounds like pretty routine 30K miles preventive maintenance.

My rule is: "It's cheaper and better to maintain things than it is to repair them or replace them."

But that's just me.
 

Ridgway Jeeper

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Relying on a dealer to "maintain" your vehicle properly is a pretty dubious plan for those of us that do our own service work. I can not imagine your differentials need changed yet unless you have been towing a lot. The front one almost certainly doesn't need changed as that oil has mostly just been riding around doing nothing unless you use 4wd a lot. When I did a lot of racetrack time annual brake fluid flushes were mandatory. No way you use your brakes that hard. Every other year is more than adequate but good maint many people skip. The induction system clean is just a rip off. Completely unnecessary at this mileage and likely unnecessary pretty much ever on this vehicle. Change the air filter, that is the only induction service your Jeep needs at this point.

So you can have these things done but it sounds like they are a bit offensive to your budget. If so, I would pass on the extras myself. Diff fluid being dark is hilarious... my rear diff fluid was already dark at 1500 miles when I dumped it to pot my locker sensors. If that was the standard you would be changing it all the time.

Sadly most subject themselves to bad dealer advice and shady recommendations that just profit dealers and do not really benefit customers. Good Luck with your choices. Beyond my first free Jeep Wave oil change, our Jeep will never go to the dealer for anything but warranty work.
 

donmontalvo

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There’s no context that results in the conclusion that someone else owes you their labor.
So true. I have a 2 car garage. Time to start doing fluid changes myself. I’ll make it my 2022 New Years resolution. :):):)
 

JLUandCJ-7

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2020 Wrangler JLUR, 3.6L, 8 speed auto, 33,000 miles.

I was at the dealer today for my Wave service. (Oil and filter change).

I was told that I needed to have both differentials flushed as the oil was black. $189.95 for each axle.
This Rubicon has lockers, and I don't know if that makes it harder on the oil. I've used the lockers twice.
Does this sound like a ripoff?

Also, they tell me that I need induction service for $219.95.

Lastly, they tell me I need a brake flush for $189.95.

I appreciate any thoughts on this. I would guess I don't need any of it, please help.

Thanks,
Lastly, they tell me I need a brake flush for $189.95. - Fudge no

The rest: Personally, the 3.6 induction cleaning I may do at 100K, not a 33K. The differential flush, I would do at home when the manual says to do it.
 

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mwilk012

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The induction service is just them putting a gas additive into your tank. A few years back I had a $35 credit at a dealership and they offered a $90 induction service on my '09 Sahara. When I inquired about it they described something that would require time for the mechanic to go in and check things/clean them out. Literally 15 mins after I walked away from the service desk they told me my jeep was ready. There was a wet "black" spot in the gas filler area which indicated something was put into the tank and a drop was missed. Thats all they did. I think moving forward the public caught on and the "induction service" isnt pushed/listed on their menu anymore.
That isn't what we do at all. We disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail, disable the fuel pump, and run the engine on a separate tank of solvent to clean injectors, and remove the intake up to the throttle body and clean the throttle body and intake manifold to remove deposits on that end. It's quite an involved process.

Is this something worth doing at that mileage? Let's assume it's effective as a treatment when used.
We usually do it at the same interval as spark plug replacement for port injected engines and more frequently for DI.
 

AlgUSF

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That isn't what we do at all. We disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail, disable the fuel pump, and run the engine on a separate tank of solvent to clean injectors, and remove the intake up to the throttle body and clean the throttle body and intake manifold to remove deposits on that end. It's quite an involved process.

We usually do it at the same interval as spark plug replacement for port injected engines and more frequently for DI.
Wow, I wouldn't dream of doing something like that. I've got 270K on a civic, had 150K on an S-10, have 100K on an Odyssey and I've never had fuel injector problems. What kind of deposits are getting missed by the fuel filter? But then I typically use Top Tier gasoline.

The only intake problem I had was on a 2005 Chevy Cobalt and it was due to all of the crap coming in from the EGR making the butterfly valve stick. Pulled off the throttle body, 1/2 can of CRC, and a terry cloth, worked perfect.
 

mwilk012

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Wow, I wouldn't dream of doing something like that. I've got 270K on a civic, had 150K on an S-10, have 100K on an Odyssey and I've never had fuel injector problems. What kind of deposits are getting missed by the fuel filter? But then I typically use Top Tier gasoline.

The only intake problem I had was on a 2005 Chevy Cobalt and it was due to all of the crap coming in from the EGR making the butterfly valve stick. Pulled off the throttle body, 1/2 can of CRC, and a terry cloth, worked perfect.
Do you think modern vehicles have fuel filters? The majority of issues we see stem from water in fuel (I personally blame ethanol) or just poor quality fuel. Top Tier gas is definitely a real benefit, but does not necessarily mean 100% gas.

Have you ever seen the inside of an intake manifold after 100k+ miles? Pop one off a Chevy 5.3 and see how much oil buildup there is. It's awful.

edit: also, fuel injector failure is very common on the our 3.6L engine.
 

MonLee

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Brake fluid flushes are not bullshit... That fluid slowly absorbs water from the air and holds on to it, rusting your brakes from the inside out. Worst still however is the chance that so much water will accumulate in your brakes eventually that if you ever get the brakes hot enough to boil that water your brakes will stop working since steam is compressible. You really should flush your brake fluid every few years at minimum.
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