Shots
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I just installed a Daystar 2" spacer lift on my JL Sahara. I figured I'd give some tips and review it since I couldn't find any when I was looking for them.
As many of you know I spent a lot of time looking for the lift that best fit my use. I wanted the lift more for looks than anything else. I like the stock ride, and I wanted to keep my stock rims/tires (I bought the optional set for a reason). After reading a LOT of product specs, reviews, etc I decided the Daystar kit was the best choice so here it is.
The install is pretty straight forward, and the kit comes with instructions. They're decent, and have a few photos. If I can figure out how, I'll attach a PDF of them [Edit: Post #12 the pdf was added]. There are a few things I'd change about them though, and I have a few tips to add too.
INSTALLATION TIPS:
That's it. It's a pretty easy install, and took me roughly 7 hours over the course of 3 days. I didn't work on it straight through, or I think I could have done it a bit faster. Plus I wasted quite a bit of time on the first spring before I figured out that setting the passenger side on the ground let me flex it better to easily remove the spring. I think if you take these tips, and work on it all in one day, you should be able to knock it out in 5 ish hours.
As many of you know I spent a lot of time looking for the lift that best fit my use. I wanted the lift more for looks than anything else. I like the stock ride, and I wanted to keep my stock rims/tires (I bought the optional set for a reason). After reading a LOT of product specs, reviews, etc I decided the Daystar kit was the best choice so here it is.
The install is pretty straight forward, and the kit comes with instructions. They're decent, and have a few photos. If I can figure out how, I'll attach a PDF of them [Edit: Post #12 the pdf was added]. There are a few things I'd change about them though, and I have a few tips to add too.
INSTALLATION TIPS:
- The parts list tells you what you should have but doesn't tell you what anything actually is. This kinda sucks, but I only had one part that took a while to figure out. There are some flat washers in the fastener kit that didn't seem to have a designated use. As it turns out they must go to the lower bolt of the shock extension brackets, which I figured out while installing the rear brackets.
- Onto the install. First they have you remove the driver side front wheel, and support the axle. Then they tell you to replace the LCA. After this they tell you to remove the sway bar end link. Woo, back it up. Remove the swaybar links first. Do this before jacking it up. I don't know if the Wrangler is different, but the last time I tried to remove swaybar links from a vehicle that wasn't on level ground it sucked.
- After removing the swaybar links, you can jack it up, swap the LCA, and install the shock extensions.
- TIP 1: Don't bother jacking up the entire front end. Leave the passenger side tire on, and lift the driver side via the frame rail. Put a jack stand under it for safety and support the axle with another jack. This second jack allows you to raise/lower the suspension to line stuff up with ease. By jacking one corner at a time you can flex it and remove the springs A LOT easier. I struggled with the first spring until I figured this out. With it flexed, they all came right out with no effort.
- Tip 2: Don't install the bump stop extension before the spring. That's stupid, because then you have to get the spring over it. Instead, slide the bump stop extension into the spring, and mount the spring first. Then just drop the bump stop extension down to the perch, and install the fastener.
- The instructions have you covered for installing everything, but they don't give you any torque specs. What I found online was: LCA = 190 ft-lbs, shock mounts = 75 ft-lbs, swaybar links 60 ft-lbs.
- Once the driver side front is done, set it down, and repeat on the passengers side front.
- Tip 3: While installing the front passenger side bump stop extension, you'll notice the stud/nut is a bear to access. Save yourself a ton of work, and simply remove the bracket that's mounted to the bottom of the spring perch. It's held on by 1 bolt, and easily moves out of the way. See the attached photo of the bracket, and an arrow pointing to the bolt holding it in place.
- Aside from this the passenger side is just like the driver side.
- Moving on to the rear. As with the front, unbolt the sway bar links first. I didn't completely remove them until the Jeep was jacked up because the bottom fastener was easier to access with the wheels off, but you can remove the top of them with it on the ground.
- Tip 4: Unbolt the rear track bar. You don't need to remove it (unless you're replacing it), but unbolting one end allows the rear suspension to drop a little more making spring removal much easier. I couldn't find torque spec for the JL when refastening the track bar so I used specs for the JK which was 125 ft-lbs.
- The instructions have you covered for the rear though like the front, I held off on installing the bump stop extensions. The rear can be done with them in place first as the instructions tell you, but putting them on after the spring simply gives you a little more room to work. Not a big deal either way.
- That's it set it down and check all the bolts for proper torque.
- The last part of the install that the instructions don't tell you, is to correct your steering wheel angle. This is a very easy task. First drive the Jeep to settle the suspension. Make note of how far off the wheel is turned when going straight. Park, crawl under the Jeep and loosen the 15mm bolt on the drag link. With that loose, twist the knurled nut which turns the wheel. Once the wheel is straight tighten the bolt back down. Drive it again to make sure you got the wheel straight and adjust again if needed.
- NEW TIP ADDED 11/23/22. Remove the e-brake line from the axle and unplug the wire connected to the rear differential. Doing this makes reinstalling the rear springs much easier. See post #52 for details and photos.
That's it. It's a pretty easy install, and took me roughly 7 hours over the course of 3 days. I didn't work on it straight through, or I think I could have done it a bit faster. Plus I wasted quite a bit of time on the first spring before I figured out that setting the passenger side on the ground let me flex it better to easily remove the spring. I think if you take these tips, and work on it all in one day, you should be able to knock it out in 5 ish hours.
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