Sting_NC_USA
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Michael
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2018
- Threads
- 27
- Messages
- 1,026
- Reaction score
- 996
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Jeep Wrangler JL Unlimited Rubicon
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- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
You have to pop the side dash panels on the driver and passenger side (body clips only, no screws). Under those panels are a number of screws. You should be able to see which ones hold the front dash in place, as they'll be the ones tied to the dash itself, which is most of them. Remove those screws. There's also a screw that's recessed in that area, and it (if memory serves) connects to the kick panel enclosure. It's very difficult to see, and don't tell anyone, but I never replaced that one when I put my stuff back together. Shhhhhhh!
Next, remove the glove compartment door (there's a "latch" inside and at the top of the compartment door that you use to release the door), and also remove the panel underneath the steering column (body clips only, no screws - pull it straight out). This will reveal more screws holding the dash in place, and you'll need to remove those.
There are two additional fasteners holding the speaker enclosures in place, and you may have to use a small ratchet with an extension to remove them (I think the screws are the same size as the ones you've been removing. Since we're not removing the entire dash, you'll need to engage your contortion skills to maneuver a tool in there to remove the top fasteners holding each of the enclosures in. The bottom one on each side is easy, it's the top one on each side that is a pain. It's kinda' tough, but can be done with patience.
Next, disconnect the molex-type plugs connected to the speaker enclosures. Your driver-side speaker enclosure also has something called a "Gateway" attached to the back of it. You'll want to disconnect those plugs as well. When you put everything back together, and your radio doesn't work, it's probably because you forgot to plug the gateway's cables back in. That was 30 minutes of troubleshooting time I could have saved had I remembered that step.
From there, you should be able to pull the dash section on each side of your Jeep out enough to "pivot" the speaker enclosure out. Don't pull to hard, as you don't want to crease your panels. There's a bit of an art to it, but it's fairly straight-forward once you're in there. If you've missed any screws, you'll know right away. Just be patient. Nothing has to be forced in order to be removed and/or replaced.
I'm confident I've missed something, but reach out if you run into anything other than what I've described, or if I can further clarify anything above.
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- maybe you've figured it out by now BUT, yes, Kicker makes complete upgrades. I'm not only a professional audio installer but have been personally sponsored by Kicker for 6 years with my RX7 FD, both of my MX5 track and show cars, my JTR and my JLR. That said, the 3.5" dash isn't a typical replacement, instead of a simple 2 lead terminal wire that connects to the speaker like most, it's a 3 lead bc it has a built in crossover and bass blocker that is required to get proper sound without clip. The knee/kick panel has 2 options, you can either use the upgraded 4" Kicker D, CS or KS series (just like the others or you can opt fora Metra JP-1014 (part number) and upgrade to a 6.5/6.75 as I did. The roll/sound bar is another level of possibilities. You can replace it with 3.5/4" speaker combos and takes under 45min to replace both again using a 3 wire install for just the 3.5". OR you can purchase the SSV Works adapter which can mount a single 6.5/6.75 and if you cut the hole, you can add a 1-1.5" tweeter - directly through SSV or Crutchfield even XT or Northbridge 4x4 but it ranges from $100-120. MB Quart makes a wonderful adapter that's about $80 from Crutchfield, you can mount, after cutting away the plastic (takes about an hour but if you use the rivnuts to remove the chamber, it's quicker), all said and done, you can mount any level of Kicker 6x9 or whatever manufacturer you choose and produce 100w RMS/300w peak from a KCS466904. Add a 4 channel and you can power the kick/knee panel andwhatever option you choose for speaker upgrade in the sound bar to full range and peak power.
