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Dash Cam Fuse Tap - Need ON and ACC Fuses

LittleDog

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a fair number of dash cameras determine whether they should be in parking mode based on whether the accessory plug they’re connected to is energized, irrespective of what actually powers the camera.

parking mode is enabled when the electrical current in the accessory outlet is not available

Agree with you here. But there's a funny little loop if you plug a "parking mode" dash camera into the console USB.

1) jeep turns off, owner exits, camera and USB shut down. Due to power down, dash cam enters "parking mode".

2.a) camera (in park mode), detects a disturbance. Camera activation sends query or power draw to jeep.

2.b) jeep receives query, powers dash and USB port for ten(?) minutes, while waiting for next command.

2.c) camera records for X minutes, then shuts down. Jeep continues to power USB port until timeout.

3) no further disturbances, or, if 1) occurs, start sequence again. Ad nauseum.

I know that the jeep/anititheft alarm will register movement or inadvertent button presses when "off". It responds with the blinding instrument panel startup screen, and temporarily powering the front ports.

This has been my experience. I've seen it cycling on and off randomly from inside the house, before I changed the camera wiring to power-only My battery is probably slightly damaged now.
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Rhinebeck01

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Gee-pah

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Agree with you here. But there's a funny little loop if you plug a "parking mode" dash camera into the console USB.

1) jeep turns off, owner exits, camera and USB shut down. Due to power down, dash cam enters "parking mode".

2.a) camera (in park mode), detects a disturbance. Camera activation sends query or power draw to jeep.

2.b) jeep receives query, powers dash and USB port for ten(?) minutes, while waiting for next command.

2.c) camera records for X minutes, then shuts down. Jeep continues to power USB port until timeout.

3) no further disturbances, or, if 1) occurs, start sequence again. Ad nauseum.

I know that the jeep/anititheft alarm will register movement or inadvertent button presses when "off". It responds with the blinding instrument panel startup screen, and temporarily powering the front ports.

This has been my experience. I've seen it cycling on and off randomly from inside the house, before I changed the camera wiring to power-only My battery is probably slightly damaged now.
Well..then all I can say is that the USB ports you describe sound like less than optimal places to energize a conventional dash camera from in that--at least in your case and perhaps across the entire model--these ports seem to energize on demand.

Conventional dash cameras require a more predictable source of power that's consistently energized when the rig is cranked only, and for parkuig mode, a second electrical source that is energized at all times.

My accessory power source (i.e. the one that is energized only when the rig is cranked) is my vanity mirror's light.
 

LittleDog

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Well..then all I can say is that the USB ports you describe sound like less than optimal places to energize a conventional dash camera from in that--at least in your case and perhaps across the entire model--these ports seem to energize on demand.

Conventional dash cameras require a more predictable source of power that's consistently energized when the rig is cranked only, and for parkuig mode, a second electrical source that is energized at all times.

My accessory power source (i.e. the one that is energized only when the rig is cranked) is my vanity mirror's light.

Agreed that a hardwired dash cam is the best way to go. I'll add the vanity light to my options for if I finally decide on a camera, thank you.

Also agree that the on-demand peculiarities, back and forth data requests, and running the cable itself make the USB option a bit more finicky, but it is nice for if you are changing/moving cameras a lot.
 

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Just run it to the battery, the less junk you put on your fuse block the better. Ever seen an automobile fuse melt? It's not uncommon, would you rather one melt in an inline fuse holder that you can easily cut out or in your fusebox? Combine that with the fact that those fuse taps are generally cheap Chinese garbage with terrible consistency. I know its sometimes necessary but IMO anytime you can avoid going to a fusebox, do so. I haven't seen many fuseboxes melt, but I've seen enough to know I never want to go through it.
Jim: If your dash camera lacks a voltage cutoff you could drain your battery. And even if it does, many cameras have power saving parking modes, themselves engaged in cases where the dash camera detects no current on the accessory power line (energized with the alternator turning,) and current on the battery (always on) power line.
 

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JimLee

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Jim: If your dash camera lacks a voltage cutoff you could drain your battery. And even if it does, many cameras have power saving parking modes, themselves engaged in cases where the dash camera detects no current on the accessory power line (energized with the alternator turning,) and current on the battery (always on) power line.
I know, the OP was having problems fitting multiple fuse taps in his fuse box, I was referring to the always hot line.
 

tengg2001

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A fuse tap is likely to not fit the position on F43/F45. What I did was bending the fuse tap 90 degree..
 

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Which fuses are you using for dash cams that support parking mode? I need to tap into an ACC fuse that only turns on when the vehicle is in use, and I need a fuse that is always on. I tried a couple today without success. Documentation is very poor

I've searched the forums and youtube quite a bit, many of you haven't bothered with fuse taps...which is very suprising since that is by far the cleanest and most standard way to wire something like a dash cam. I have aux switches but I am going to use those for other things.
Fuse 57 is only active when the vehicle is on, you will need a micro fuse tap for each tap.
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