CarbonSteel
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- #31
I lucked up and Drivetrain America had them in stock (OOS now) and I had them within 2 days of ordering.No, not the machine shop, the purchase of the new passenger DS axle.
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I lucked up and Drivetrain America had them in stock (OOS now) and I had them within 2 days of ordering.No, not the machine shop, the purchase of the new passenger DS axle.
It is and provided you change the inner axle shaft with a RCV CrMo it will likely be just as strong without the mess AND the RCV had a bronze bushing in it.So now Im thinking the “poor man’s” option here is a set of DS axles plus the cost of the bushing and the lathe work on the passenger axle.
Edit….
Actually, to REALLY cheap out can one skip the bronze bushing as well? Just machine the nipple to the same size as OEM.
Not sure why they did not make a solid shaft to delete the FAD, but I'm glad they didn't else I'd be stuck with RCVs.I don’t understand why they can’t simply produce an axle that just fits all the way through the FAD housing and to the diff carrier.
What am I missing?
For the length of the nipple, there could be some slack on the length as there is no thrust load on the shaft since it registers behind the splined yoke against the hub bearing and is held there by the shaft nut so you can go + or - as desired depending on which inner shaft you are going to use. The shaft length I posted should work with either one.Is there a +/- for those dimensions?
Also, Im hoping you will tell us where we can order the bronze bushing and where you had the shaft machined.
Thank you
OK. Some of this is above me but with the right shop Im sure I can figure it all out.For the length of the nipple, there could be some slack on the length as there is no thrust load on the shaft since it registers behind the splined yoke against the hub bearing and is held there by the shaft nut so you can go + or - as desired depending on which inner shaft you are going to use. The shaft length I posted should work with either one.
For the OD of the nipple, this is with a small amount of clearance between the nipple and the bushing. Note the RCV short inner shaft is the same dimensionally as the OEM shaft as is the ID of bushing in the RCV shaft so the DS shaft nipple OD is cut to the same dimensions as the OEM.
For the bronze bushing, it was machined from SAE C660 cored round stock. I bought a 7" length of it with 1/2" ID and 1-1/2" OD to allow for machining and it took about 3" of it to make 3 bushings. I bought it from here - https://www.bravobronze.com/shop-al...ide_diameter=21&outside_diameter=79&shape=132.
The machine shop I used has to remain anonymous, but with this information and the OEM inner and outer passenger shaft as well as the new DS CrMo passenger shaft any machine shop with a decent lathe will make short work of this.
Note the splined yoke has to be removed to the shaft can be centered on the drill points on each end. Autozone has a u-joint press that can be rented (for free--just leave a deposit that is 100% refunded when you return it).
Hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions.
Certainly - if you have questions later, please let me know. Happy to help!OK. Some of this is above me but with the right shop Im sure I can figure it all out.
Thank you.
Yes; this is correct.Am I correct to think that the factory passenger outer/inner axles rides in a plastic bushing inside the factory inner/inner axle?
Correct; the outer yoked shaft would be turning in 2H, but not the short inner shaft.And in 2WD the outer/inner axle is spinning inside that bushing because the inner/inner axle is not spinning?
Yes; but (there always is), RCV chose a bronze bushing for their inner shaft instead of plastic and there must be a reason for that. I do not want to pull mine apart again, so I bought the RCV inner shaft which is CrMo whereas the OEM shaft is not and had bronze bushings made for both the RCV inner and the OEM inner as a spare for the RCV and a replacement for the plastic in the OEM.And somehow lasts for thousands and thousands of miles with no problems?