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Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion

Qwest4air

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The only time I have a clearance issue is when the front suspension is compressed evenly in the upper direction, the limiting factor in the travel is the gap between the tie rod and the Pitman arm tie rod.
That being said on articulation the 40s are hard into the fender before I come close to the frame on the passenger side or the drag link on the driver side.
I was flirting with the idea of changing the angle on the Pitman arm, and I also spoke to the manufacturer and they said that they might be making new tire rod ends that offset the tire rod a little bit more to help with this clearance issue, but again I’m getting all the way up into the fenders on articulation, so it would really only help at speed if you hit a dip straight on when the actual cycles up evenly.
It does tuck the Hydro assist Ram up high and out-of-the-way in its current position but it wouldn’t hurt to drop it down an inch either.
That also being said, we just took it out the first time to Moab and I have some adjustments to make.

The other thing you need to do is grind the steering stops on the knuckles down to suit or match your steering gearbox and or a hydraulic assist set up.

I had my factory gearbox drilled and tapped and threw a PSC rim on the axle and it’s working great, if you’re whipping in and out of a parking spot the steering can get a little delayed but I think that’s to be expected.

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MSparks909

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I just swapped Dynatrac 68.5s into my 392. Still in the fine tuning process, need to adjust the tie rod tomorrow and figure out why my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. Also have to wire my lockers. Pretty sure I’ve got a wheel speed sensor or two acting up which is throwing the dash lights on. Doing it mostly myself so it’s a little slow going but it’s getting done. It’s “driveable” but not dialed in 100%.

In hindsight I’m kind of wishing I would have bought new UD60s, I bought this axle set from a vendor because they were actually in stock and I didn’t want to wait 6-8+ months buying direct through Dynatrac but much to my surprise I received axles that were made in 2019…oh well lesson learned. 5.38 gears, e-lockers and I’m running 40” STT Pros on 3.5” BS KMC Grenade Crawls. I received the wrong drag link/tie rod, didn’t get the parking brake bracket kit or locker harnesses. Ended up sourcing my own locker harness kits and parking brake kit (which was missing the cable bracket go figure). These axles also have the now recalled aluminum 1550 knuckles…Dynatrac was quick to ship me new 1550 iron knuckles with new balljoints already installed so that was sweet and they finally got me the correct steering linkages after ~2 weeks. Installed the axles as-is with the aluminum knuckles…if they crack I’ll obviously swap them out but if they don’t crack I’ll probably run them for ~25-30K or so and then swap them out when I repack my wheel bearings. Less than impressed with the missing parts aspect of the swap but maybe my experience was an outlier…not sure. It looks good at least 🤣

Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B
 
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DLW

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The only time I have a clearance issue is when the front suspension is compressed evenly in the upper direction, the limiting factor in the travel is the gap between the tie rod and the Pitman arm tie rod.
That being said on articulation the 40s are hard into the fender before I come close to the frame on the passenger side or the drag link on the driver side.
I was flirting with the idea of changing the angle on the Pitman arm, and I also spoke to the manufacturer and they said that they might be making new tire rod ends that offset the tire rod a little bit more to help with this clearance issue, but again I’m getting all the way up into the fenders on articulation, so it would really only help at speed if you hit a dip straight on when the actual cycles up evenly.
It does tuck the Hydro assist Ram up high and out-of-the-way in its current position but it wouldn’t hurt to drop it down an inch either.
That also being said, we just took it out the first time to Moab and I have some adjustments to make.

The other thing you need to do is grind the steering stops on the knuckles down to suit or match your steering gearbox and or a hydraulic assist set up.

I had my factory gearbox drilled and tapped and threw a PSC rim on the axle and it’s working great, if you’re whipping in and out of a parking spot the steering can get a little delayed but I think that’s to be expected.

Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B
Thanks, that's nice description of the clearance issues, all though does seem minor and probably not an issue if you bump stop it, downside being you lose a bit of up travel.

Getting kind of jealous of all you 392 guys, lol..

What hydro ram did you end up with, the 8" or 6 3/4"? Are you getting close to the stock turning radius? I have the full PSC hydro kit in the garage waiting on me.
 

DLW

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I just swapped Dynatrac 68.5s into my 392. Still in the fine tuning process, need to adjust the tie rod tomorrow and figure out why my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. Also have to wire my lockers. Pretty sure I’ve got a wheel speed sensor or two acting up which is throwing the dash lights on. Doing it mostly myself so it’s a little slow going but it’s getting done. It’s “driveable” but not dialed in 100%.

In hindsight I’m kind of wishing I would have bought new UD60s, I bought this axle set from a vendor because they were actually in stock and I didn’t want to wait 6-8+ months buying direct through Dynatrac but much to my surprise I received axles that were made in 2019…oh well lesson learned. 5.38 gears, e-lockers and I’m running 40” STT Pros on 3.5” BS KMC Grenade Crawls. I received the wrong drag link/tie rod, didn’t get the parking brake bracket kit or locker harnesses. Ended up sourcing my own locker harness kits and parking brake kit (which was missing the cable bracket go figure). These axles also have the now recalled aluminum 1550 knuckles…Dynatrac was quick to ship me new 1550 iron knuckles with new balljoints already installed so that was sweet and they finally got me the correct steering linkages after ~2 weeks. Installed the axles as-is with the aluminum knuckles…if they crack I’ll obviously swap them out but if they don’t crack I’ll probably run them for ~25-30K or so and then swap them out when I repack my wheel bearings. Less than impressed with the missing parts aspect of the swap but maybe my experience was an outlier…not sure. It looks good at least 🤣

Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 49F7034D-FB19-42BA-B07C-CA79A846384B
Nice!!
 

Qwest4air

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Thanks, that's nice description of the clearance issues, all though does seem minor and probably not an issue if you bump stop it, downside being you lose a bit of up travel.

Getting kind of jealous of all you 392 guys, lol..

What hydro ram did you end up with, the 8" or 6 3/4"? Are you getting close to the stock turning radius? I have the full PSC hydro kit in the garage waiting on me.
I believe I have the 8 inch ram, the six was way too short I couldn’t even make a U-turn on a four-lane road.
I am still inching a little at a time towards the maximum turn radius, I’m taking a little off of knuckle at a time until I can get it to match the steering gearbox.

I believe the clearance is manageable and I am working on the fine tuning. I will probably add hydro bump stops
 

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I went with Fusion 72.5" Elite 60s geared at 4.56 front and rear for my ecodiesel. It took about 14 weeks to get the axles due to a shortage of Eaton e-lockers. Not Fusion's fault. I've had some issues to overcome. First drive I found one of the rear brake calipers had a blown seal. Fusion overnighted me a new caliper. When I put it on a flex ramp diff fluid ran out the front axle. Fusion paid to have the seal replaced. I'm still having issues with ESC kicking in around corners. No idea what's causing that. Yes, my steering wheel is straight. Dan has been very good about communicating with me and I'm happy with the service I've received.

If I were to complain (and who doesn't) I would say the tabs on the track bar are really set up for a steering stabilizer and not hydro assist. Once I cut the steer stops down and bumped them out for 8" of travel instead of 6.75" I found out the tie rod hit the ram at full lock to the right. And the travel of the longer ram meant my clamp was hitting the diff cover locked to the left. I had to cut off the tabs and weld on new ones a little bit higher which solved the problem.

I just finished the new ram install late last night. Since there is no PSC kit (yet) for the diesel I went with Redneck Ram. Their kit just wasn't working well for me so I went with the 8" PSC ram and added the newer Apex Steering boost kit. I hope this improves the steering but at least I'll have a lot more turn radius, which was terrible before.

I only got in one trail before I decided to upgrade the upgrades. I'm 90 minutes from Moab so at least I will have lots of opportunities to test things out.

Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion IMG_7072


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 279149381_10224315268220807_3405294994694085499_n
 

Deezus

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Are yours 69” wide? What wheel backspacing? Can you turn lock to lock? How much bumpstop do you run? I’m assuming 40”s?
Yes there's 69 in wide and I have about 4 inches of bump stop but I also cut my fenders out and I'm riding a little bit higher than most. Put it like this on the CTI machine that tire gets stuffed all the way up in there and barely misses scraping the inner fender.
 

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Nice rig and shot.

DS60/80 is high on my list, but DSTRAC is at the top
I have edited my original post and if I had to do it right now with the way the prices are they're so comparable I would go with the Dynatrac or the Fusion axles.
 

Deezus

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I went with Fusion 72.5" Elite 60s geared at 4.56 front and rear for my ecodiesel. It took about 14 weeks to get the axles due to a shortage of Eaton e-lockers. Not Fusion's fault. I've had some issues to overcome. First drive I found one of the rear brake calipers had a blown seal. Fusion overnighted me a new caliper. When I put it on a flex ramp diff fluid ran out the front axle. Fusion paid to have the seal replaced. I'm still having issues with ESC kicking in around corners. No idea what's causing that. Yes, my steering wheel is straight. Dan has been very good about communicating with me and I'm happy with the service I've received.

If I were to complain (and who doesn't) I would say the tabs on the track bar are really set up for a steering stabilizer and not hydro assist. Once I cut the steer stops down and bumped them out for 8" of travel instead of 6.75" I found out the tie rod hit the ram at full lock to the right. And the travel of the longer ram meant my clamp was hitting the diff cover locked to the left. I had to cut off the tabs and weld on new ones a little bit higher which solved the problem.

I just finished the new ram install late last night. Since there is no PSC kit (yet) for the diesel I went with Redneck Ram. Their kit just wasn't working well for me so I went with the 8" PSC ram and added the newer Apex Steering boost kit. I hope this improves the steering but at least I'll have a lot more turn radius, which was terrible before.

I only got in one trail before I decided to upgrade the upgrades. I'm 90 minutes from Moab so at least I will have lots of opportunities to test things out.

Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 279149381_10224315268220807_3405294994694085499_n


Jeep Wrangler JL Dana 60's: Currie vs Dana Spicer vs Dynatrac vs Fusion 279149381_10224315268220807_3405294994694085499_n
So the main thing holding you up is the e-locker?
 

Skyvet

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Okay so a company that makes a shit electrical component that has failed many many Jeep owners with some of them having up to 6 axles replaced on their Jeep is not worthy of my money. Maybe I am just a little sour after getting my Jeep back yesterday after a $3600 dollar repair.

Well it should be a $200 dollar repair, but nope, Dana will not sell the parts to fix it. So what did I have to do? Yup by another axle so I could get the part I needed to fix my locker.

Note I re-geared the axles so these are not covered under Warranty. These are bought out of my own money.

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O but wait there is more. Is this the first time I have had to do this. Well no it is not. But hey this Axle made it 2200 miles before it failed.
Screen Shot 2021-12-15 at 6.25.26 AM.png


So Z automotive has a bypass locker harness that we should 100% not need to buy but Dana makes shit components. I wonder how many people are bypassing Dana shit compounds on their axles? I have bought two of the Z Automotive bypass harnesses. So there is another $340.

The sad thing is magnet in my locker failed. If this was a JK, I could have the part in a couple days for $200, but hey I like buying whole new axles because they will not sell you any parts after producing shit products.

So lets take a look at what it cost to wheel a Dana 44 axle

Replace the rear Axles $950 Yukon HD axles.
Buy a new axle for an electrical component the first time $1950
buy to Z-Automotive bypass harnesses $340
buy another whole rear axle but bonus there is a big price jump. Now they are $2300
Labor and parts for a gear swap. $1000
Labor to swap out the rear locker because of a failed electrical component $1272

I would have bought a Dynatrac 60 if they could have got it to me in time, but they are so far out, that I will not be home when it would have came in. I will be on an extend Jeep travel trip.

Nothing like being $5540 deep into a $2000 dollar axle. Yeah no way, I am buying a Dana anything again. Like I said, I would not have spent the last $3600 dollars if I could have bought something else within the time frame that I had. Now just to hope and pray that Dana does not let me down while on a 20,000 mile Jeep trip over the next 11 months. It almost makes me sick to my stomach thinking about being gone for 11 months with that piece of Dana Junk under my Jeep.

But hey it your money spend it however you want.
I always ask company's for parts availability or do research before buying. I also utilize their customer service lines to test how well their customer service is when there is an issue. Dynatrac used to be good but they have become the absolute worst on my list. Plus it seems that Dynatrc has doubled the price on everything and it feels more like gouging at a certain point. Currie continues to be at the top but are expensive, but they've always been expensive so nothing new there. Yeah Dana and parts---one word--junkyard is your friend hahaha.
 
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MSparks909

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After the numerous headaches I’ve had with my Dynatrac XD60s I have to say I’m kicking myself for not buying Dana UD60s or Curries…beyond ridiculous for the price I paid.
 

Knight Offroad

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After the numerous headaches I’ve had with my Dynatrac XD60s I have to say I’m kicking myself for not buying Dana UD60s or Curries…beyond ridiculous for the price I paid.
Just curious, what have your headaches been? Apologies if I missed a previous post.
 

MSparks909

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Just curious, what have your headaches been? Apologies if I missed a previous post.
Received the wrong drag link/tie rod, axles didn’t ship with the parking brake relocation kit, axles didn’t ship with any locker harnesses (I have 5.38s/E-Lockers), having an issue with the computer reading the rear tone rings. Just swapped wheel speed sensors today and still having ABS/ESC dash lights pop up…most likely going to have to tear the axles down and check tone ring placement and/or swap them out 🤦‍♂️
 

Knight Offroad

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Received the wrong drag link/tie rod, axles didn’t ship with the parking brake relocation kit, axles didn’t ship with any locker harnesses (I have 5.38s/E-Lockers), having an issue with the computer reading the rear tone rings. Just swapped wheel speed sensors today and still having ABS/ESC dash lights pop up…most likely going to have to tear the axles down and check tone ring placement and/or swap them out 🤦‍♂️
Sorry to hear about all your troubles. I went with Fusion and it hasn't been all trouble free either but at least they communicate with me. I needed a new rear brake caliper right off the bat. That got overnighted to me so no big deal. Also needed a new front axle seal right off the bat. I had to go 100 miles to Moab to get that taken care of. Fuel costs, seals and fluid out of my pocket but labor was covered by Fusion. Dan did offer to send me fluid and seals but I told him I already had them on hand. My e-locker harness bundle was missing a plug that goes on the wires coming out of the differential. Not a biggie as I ended up using the Z-Automotive harness extensions and Z-locker controller so I could just use my factory locker switches. Works perfectly and saved me a ton of time having to hook up additional wiring. Shock mounts on front axle weren't deep enough to accept the Fox 2.5 shocks I installed. Instead of notching out the shock mount I chose to grind down the bottom of the shock ball a bit to make it fit. That wasn't what I wanted to do on a $1500 pair of shocks. Dan says they are planning on making that bracket deeper in future iterations. The drag link came with two ball joint canisters that looked identical but were not. The instructions didn't mention that they were end specific. Took me a bit to figure out they were because the amount of thread sticking out at each end was not appropriate until I swapped them around. Didn't think I was ever going to break the end at the pitman arm loose. Also, one of those canisters won't hold onto a zerk fitting so greasing it is tricky. And I'm also having issues with the ESC light flashing at me when I make sharp (90 degree) turns. JSCAN said the issue was in the front sensors so I replaced them. Fusion says air gap to tone ring should be within .010" to .060". I'm at .045". Steering wheel is of course centered and gear box is clocked correctly. No idea what could be causing it. Drives me crazy because I don't know what to do. Other than that, the axles are beefy and look indestructible.
 

MSparks909

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Sorry to hear about all your troubles. I went with Fusion and it hasn't been all trouble free either but at least they communicate with me. I needed a new rear brake caliper right off the bat. That got overnighted to me so no big deal. Also needed a new front axle seal right off the bat. I had to go 100 miles to Moab to get that taken care of. Fuel costs, seals and fluid out of my pocket but labor was covered by Fusion. Dan did offer to send me fluid and seals but I told him I already had them on hand. My e-locker harness bundle was missing a plug that goes on the wires coming out of the differential. Not a biggie as I ended up using the Z-Automotive harness extensions and Z-locker controller so I could just use my factory locker switches. Works perfectly and saved me a ton of time having to hook up additional wiring. Shock mounts on front axle weren't deep enough to accept the Fox 2.5 shocks I installed. Instead of notching out the shock mount I chose to grind down the bottom of the shock ball a bit to make it fit. That wasn't what I wanted to do on a $1500 pair of shocks. Dan says they are planning on making that bracket deeper in future iterations. The drag link came with two ball joint canisters that looked identical but were not. The instructions didn't mention that they were end specific. Took me a bit to figure out they were because the amount of thread sticking out at each end was not appropriate until I swapped them around. Didn't think I was ever going to break the end at the pitman arm loose. Also, one of those canisters won't hold onto a zerk fitting so greasing it is tricky. And I'm also having issues with the ESC light flashing at me when I make sharp (90 degree) turns. JSCAN said the issue was in the front sensors so I replaced them. Fusion says air gap to tone ring should be within .010" to .060". I'm at .045". Steering wheel is of course centered and gear box is clocked correctly. No idea what could be causing it. Drives me crazy because I don't know what to do. Other than that, the axles are beefy and look indestructible.
Dang…sounds like you’ve had quite the headaches as well! Hate to hear that, quite the laundry list of fine tuning there. Are your sensors being stretched or pulling anything when you’re turning? I try to focus on the simplest things then work backwards from there. Appreciate the specs on the air gap, will definitely refer to those when I tear into the rear axle. I’m not sure anyone makes truly plug and play “bolt in” axles. Annoying these are the issues one has when paying this much for axles. You’d think the QC would be top notch.
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