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Dana 44 swap question.

mgroeger

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I have a 2018 Sahara and I will be putting Rubi Dana 44 take offs on it, only the axles, not the transfer case. The question is do I need to get the Rubi driveshafts as well? If yes, then do I need both?
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mgroeger

mgroeger

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What about the diff? Sorry if I'm saying the obvious but the diff takes the shaft and that's what's got to match.
Ummmm... the diff is part of the axle that I am swapping. Sorry for any confusion, when I say axles I mean the entire thing, not just the axle shafts which is what it sounds like you are referring to. :)
Typically when someone says "take offs" regarding the axles it's the entire thing.
 

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Ummmm... the diff is part of the axle that I am swapping. Sorry for any confusion, when I say axles I mean the entire thing, not just the axle shafts which is what it sounds like you are referring to. :)
Typically when someone says "take offs" regarding the axles it's the entire thing.
It's not you who was unclear, you're good.

If you do need the front d/s and can't get it with purchase of the axles I'm sure there's an abundance of members who have lifted and swapped out the front stocker, myself included. Since this requires swapping the t-case flange it's not practical for me to carry my old front d/s as a spare, thus it's available if that helps you

edit: I don't actually know if you need to swap driveshafts, sorry
 
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mgroeger

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It's not you who was unclear, you're good.

If you do need the front d/s and can't get it with purchase of the axles I'm sure there's an abundance of members who have lifted and swapped out the front stocker, myself included. Since this requires swapping the t-case flange it's not practical for me to carry my old front d/s as a spare, thus it's available if that helps you

edit: I don't actually know if you need to swap driveshafts, sorry
Thanks for the info :)
PM a price just in case I need it please.
 

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I have a 2018 Sahara and I will be putting Rubi Dana 44 take offs on it, only the axles, not the transfer case. The question is do I need to get the Rubi driveshafts as well? If yes, then do I need both?
Reach out to @ChattVol, he swapped out his axles and would likely have some insight for you.
If you’re on or considering a lift of 3” or more and running larger tires, you might want to go with after market on the front. Adams, or Tom Woods etc.... imho.
 
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I know a JK and a JL are different Jeeps, so take it for what it’s worth. I sold JK Rubicon 44’s to a friend with a Sport, and he used the Sport driveshafts. I can’t see why it would be any different.
 

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I have a 2018 Sahara and I will be putting Rubi Dana 44 take offs on it, only the axles, not the transfer case. The question is do I need to get the Rubi driveshafts as well? If yes, then do I need both?
Hey...I talked with Dana and Advantec about this before swapping in rubi jl axles on my 6 speed sport s jl. The OEM sahara and sport driveshafts will bolt right up to the rubi axles. I'm lifted 2.5" on 35's and put about 17k miles on the rubi axles including 15+ offroad trips and they're holding up well. I later swapped in the rubi transfer case about 7k miles ago and it was a big upgrade if you like to crawl slow. The front driveshaft flange is bending at the transfer case due to flexing with longer travel shocks.(extended 29" in front and 31" in rear) I'll prob eventually have to buy a new front driveshaft. The 4.10 gearing, bigger brakes and lockers have been a very useful upgrade...I highly recommend it for more challenging offroading. Here's my build thread that may be helpful: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/billet-stallion-sport-s-full-d44-swap.19973/
Here's the front driveshaft flange:
OvrrK3u.jpg
 
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mgroeger

mgroeger

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Hey...I talked with Dana and Advantec about this before swapping in rubi jl axles on my 6 speed sport s jl. The OEM sahara and sport driveshafts will bolt right up to the rubi axles. I'm lifted 2.5" on 35's and put about 17k miles on the rubi axles including 15+ offroad trips and they're holding up well. I later swapped in the rubi transfer case about 7k miles ago and it was a big upgrade if you like to crawl slow. The front driveshaft flange is bending at the transfer case due to flexing with longer travel shocks.(extended 29" in front and 31" in rear) I'll prob eventually have to buy a new front driveshaft. The 4.10 gearing, bigger brakes and lockers have been a very useful upgrade...I highly recommend it for more challenging offroading. Here's my build thread that may be helpful: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/billet-stallion-sport-s-full-d44-swap.19973/
Here's the front driveshaft flange:
OvrrK3u.jpg
Thanks for the info! Shawn @chevymitchell recommended I reach out to you but you beat me to it :)
He's helping me hunt down a pair of 44s but the t-case is a future wish list item. Right now we have the big brakes because it's a Sahara so if they come with the axle they will be getting sold off.
The D35s have a the drain bolt completely exposed on the bottom of the diff and the Mrs. clipped a rock and it literally pulled the plug out at an angle allowing the fluid to slowly drip out. Almost 2 hours later, going 55mph down the road, the rear began to seize and smoke. Tried getting warranty to cover and the dealer said sorry no and they said that because of the way the plug got jacked the entire axle needs replacing. My insurance company will cover it and they are at the dealer now assessing it.
Dealer estimate was $4k for the factory replacement but for that I can do the work myself and upgrade to D44s. Shawn offered to help as well.
Right now we have the RC spacer lift which raises the front 2.5" and the rear 2" and we are running Rubi 33 and full length Rancho shocks. When those tires wear out we will be going to 35s and most likely a 2.5" true lift.
If you're ok with it please PM your number in case I have questions along the way? Thanks.
 
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mgroeger

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The D44s will have the same drain plug exposed. Stupid design for a removable cover diff. I'd tack weld the new ones in for a cheap, high clearance solution. Otherwise, you'll likely need to skid it to avoid the problem in the future.
Small correction: Only the front D44 have the drain plug exposed, the rear are on the side.
 

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The D44s will have the same drain plug exposed. Stupid design for a removable cover diff. I'd tack weld the new ones in for a cheap, high clearance solution. Otherwise, you'll likely need to skid it to avoid the problem in the future.
He's saying the rear D35 began to seize though. I thought the M220 rear doesn't have the drain plug, I could be wrong? I should walk 30' to my JLUR and look, eh?

edit: OP answered that, snuck in seconds before me
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