DANA 44 AdvanTEK Specs for 4.88 Re-Gear

chevymitchell

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Good morning,

I called DANA this morning to get all the specs for re-gearing my 44's with 4.88's.

The TQ specs on the axles are different, so please keep that in mind, and these specs are specific for 4.88's.

Here is what DANA Tech Support provided me:

FRONT AXLE
Ring Gear Bolts - 70-90 ft/lbs
Caps - 70-90 ft/lbs
Pinion Nut - Minimum 160 ft/lbs (Tighten to reach PTQR)
Ring Gear Backlash - .005-.008"
Diff Cover - 28-33 ft/lbs
PTQR - 8.2-25.7 in/lbs
TTQR - PTQR + 2.1-6.5 in/lbs

REAR AXLE
Ring Gear Bolts - 133-177 ft/lbs
Caps - 66.5-73.5 ft/lbs
Pinion Nut - Minimum 160 ft/lbs (Tighten to reach PTQR)
Ring Gear Backlash - .003-.006"
Diff Cover - 25-30 ft/lbs
PTQR - 7.7-18.9 in/lbs
TTQR - PTQR + 12.9-15.9 in/lbs

There will be a publication released from DANA with these specs, but it's going to be quite awhile before it's finished and published.

If you are re-gearing to a different ratio, call this number and get your specs:

upload_2019-2-1_8-56-41.png





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ChattVol

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Good morning,

I called DANA this morning to get all the specs for re-gearing my 44's with 4.88's.

The TQ specs on the axles are different, so please keep that in mind, and these specs are specific for 4.88's.

Here is what DANA Tech Support provided me:

FRONT AXLE
Ring Gear Bolts - 70-90 ft/lbs
Caps - 70-90 ft/lbs
Pinion Nut - Minimum 160 ft/lbs (Tighten to reach PTQR)
Ring Gear Backlash - .005-.008"
Diff Cover - 28-33 ft/lbs
PTQR - 8.2-25.7 in/lbs
TTQR - PTQR + 2.1-6.5 in/lbs

REAR AXLE
Ring Gear Bolts - 133-177 ft/lbs
Caps - 66.5-73.5 ft/lbs
Pinion Nut - Minimum 160 ft/lbs (Tighten to reach PTQR)
Ring Gear Backlash - .003-.006"
Diff Cover - 25-30 ft/lbs
PTQR - 7.7-18.9 in/lbs
TTQR - PTQR + 12.9-15.9 in/lbs

There will be a publication released from DANA with these specs, but it's going to be quite awhile before it's finished and published.

If you are re-gearing to a different ratio, call this number and get your specs:

upload_2019-2-1_8-56-41.png
Thanks...are you going to 4.88 gearing with 37" tires? I'd think that would be perfect with a 6 speed or auto. I learned yesterday that a 6 speed with 4.10 gearing and 35's is much tougher to manage on technical trails! It didnt have enough juice in low and 1st gear to crawl without stalling. Granted I have the sport transfer case with lower gear ratio. The guy in front of me on the trail had a automatic rubi jl and he made it look easy crawling at a consistent pace. I had auto transmission envy!
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Thanks...are you going to 4.88 gearing with 37" tires? I'd think that would be perfect with a 6 speed or auto. I learned yesterday that a 6 speed with 4.10 gearing and 35's is much tougher to manage on technical trails! It didnt have enough juice in low and 1st gear to crawl without stalling. Granted I have the sport transfer case with lower gear ratio. The guy in front of me on the trail had a automatic rubi jl and he made it look easy crawling at a consistent pace. I had auto transmission envy!
Yeah. I'm currently running a set of 37" STT Pro's. I went wheeling today at Patriot Mountain Offroad Park and didn't have an issue, but it's definitely evident the gearing is needed, of course. I won't ever have auto envy. Lol. I've only ever wheeled with a manual and it's really nice to have.
 

ChattVol

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Yeah. I'm currently running a set of 37" STT Pro's. I went wheeling today at Patriot Mountain Offroad Park and didn't have an issue, but it's definitely evident the gearing is needed, of course. I won't ever have auto envy. Lol. I've only ever wheeled with a manual and it's really nice to have.
I'm curious...why do you prefer a 6 speed offroad?
 
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I'm curious...why do you prefer a 6 speed offroad?
I prefer a manual off-road because my foot controls all the slippage between the engine and drive train. I don't have to deal with loading the converter. There's a few more reasons, but it's the control aspect I like.
 

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I prefer a manual off-road because my foot controls all the slippage between the engine and drive train. I don't have to deal with loading the converter. There's a few more reasons, but it's the control aspect I like.
Interesting...I have a 6 speed and feel it is a good bit more difficult to manage the clutch compared to an auto transmission during technical slower climbs. It seems an automatic allows you to focus more on your line and tire placement instead of providing adequate power so you dont stall. Others in my offroad group agree...do you not experience this?
 
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Interesting...I have a 6 speed and feel it is a good bit more difficult to manage the clutch compared to an auto transmission during technical slower climbs. It seems an automatic allows you to focus more on your line and tire placement instead of providing adequate power so you dont stall. Others in my offroad group agree...do you not experience this?
I have not experienced an issue with focusing on all the other aspects of technical wheeling when driving my manual. My JK was a manual, as well. It really started with whether or not I wanted to spend the money on the auto. However, going all the way back to high school, I always had a manual. Having a clutch in 4LO, first gear makes things super easy to crawl around. It’s just second nature to me. Idk. I just don’t focus on the clutch when I’m wheeling too much. I just drive the Jeep. Lol. Not sure how else to explain it.

A lot of people love the confidence an auto gives you. I have that same confidence driving my manual. Climbing Hell’s Gate was a breeze with the manual or doing John Bull. It comes down to a personal preference, I suppose. I just prefer the clutch over the converter.
 

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I have not experienced an issue with focusing on all the other aspects of technical wheeling when driving my manual. My JK was a manual, as well. It really started with whether or not I wanted to spend the money on the auto. However, going all the way back to high school, I always had a manual. Having a clutch in 4LO, first gear makes things super easy to crawl around. It’s just second nature to me. Idk. I just don’t focus on the clutch when I’m wheeling too much. I just drive the Jeep. Lol. Not sure how else to explain it.

A lot of people love the confidence an auto gives you. I have that same confidence driving my manual. Climbing Hell’s Gate was a breeze with the manual or doing John Bull. It comes down to a personal preference, I suppose. I just prefer the clutch over the converter.
I gotcha...thanks for the feedback. The one thing I'm missing on my build is the jlur transfer case gear ratios...maybe that makes a difference offroad? In 4low 1st gear, I think mine is 50:1 and the rubi is 70:1
 
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I gotcha...thanks for the feedback. The one thing I'm missing on my build is the jlur transfer case gear ratios...maybe that makes a difference offroad? In 4low 1st gear, I think mine is 50:1 and the rubi is 70:1
The Rubicon with a manual is 84:1 and yeah, that would make a BIG difference in your manual wheeling experience.

Once I get the 4.88’s installed, the crawl ratio will get a hair better than that. You can usually idle over most easy to medium obstacles without touching the gas pedal. More technical things and bumping requires some throttle, of course.
 

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The Rubicon with a manual is 84:1 and yeah, that would make a BIG difference in your manual wheeling experience.

Once I get the 4.88’s installed, the crawl ratio will get a hair better than that. You can usually idle over most easy to medium obstacles without touching the gas pedal. More technical things and bumping requires some throttle, of course.
How much to change the transfer case gearing and is it a worthwhile upgrade? I cant idle over obstacles currently and have to feather the clutch.
 
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How much to change the transfer case gearing and is it a worthwhile upgrade? I cant idle over obstacles currently and have to feather the clutch.
If you have the money and the time, it’s worth the upgrade, yes. I’m sure you’ve hard this question may times, but, how come you didn’t just get a rubi to start out with?
 

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If you have the money and the time, it’s worth the upgrade, yes. I’m sure you’ve hard this question may times, but, how come you didn’t just get a rubi to start out with?
Probably should have bought a rubi...I was a typical initially uninformed first time jeep owner who made some pricey mods early on and put 8k miles on it before I realized this...was going to take a bath with trade quotes not accounting for mods. I have some friends who helped with labor on the axle swap/lift/sound uograde. I've done most of the labor on other mods. Other than the transfer case, hood and badge, I have a lifted rubi, better sound system and lockers that can be used whenever I want for less $.
 
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Probably should have bought a rubi...I was a typical initially uninformed first time jeep owner who made some pricey mods early on and put 8k miles on it before I realized this...was going to take a bath with trade quotes not accounting for mods. I have some friends who helped with labor on the axle swap/lift/sound uograde. I've done most of the labor on other mods. Other than the transfer case, hood and badge, I have a lifted rubi, better sound system and lockers that can be used whenever I want for less $.
Right on. I got your PM. I’ll go through the link you sent and reply.

It’s a badass Jeep either way. Plus the fun of building it can’t replaced.
 

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Right on. I got your PM. I’ll go through the link you sent and reply.

It’s a badass Jeep either way. Plus the fun of building it can’t replaced.
Agreed...I've learned alot and it's been a ton of fun to build.
 

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Agreed...I've learned alot and it's been a ton of fun to build.
If you decide to replace the transfer case, look for a Rubi take out if you want to minimize budget. If you have the money, check and see what Atlas has to offer. They have some really nice options for the JK, not sure what they have for the JL yet.
 

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