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D44 Pinion Bearing Options

fdFifty

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Hi all. Looking for some help from those with expertise/experience with these new advantek axles.

This will be the 3rd set of bearings and gears I’ve gone through in 3 years. It seems to be this outer pinion bearing that goes every time.

Has anyone found a rebuild kit or alternative that uses a traditional roller configuration instead of this new ball bearing nonsense? Seems that each brand of kit I’ve found uses the same koyo bearing and race.


Jeep Wrangler JL D44 Pinion Bearing Options B12B9EB3-9456-4B29-B09B-28EA05180E2B
Jeep Wrangler JL D44 Pinion Bearing Options AEE283E1-AE3D-45BB-AD68-AB8BCC803550
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word302

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Who’s doing your gears? Are they setting pinion preload properly? I’m not a fan of that beating either but something’s gotta be up for you to chew through 3 of them. What’s your pinion angle at? Any issues with the oil channels in your diff?
 
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fdFifty

fdFifty

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Who’s doing your gears? Are they setting pinion preload properly? I’m not a fan of that beating either but something’s gotta be up for you to chew through 3 of them. What’s your pinion angle at? Any issues with the oil channels in your diff?
Local 4wp has done all the gear work. My front running theory was that the preload wasn’t set properly. But this has been covered under warranty each time, so I’d think they are paying close attention to details like that at this point… but I could be wrong. Could bad preload cause a distinct pit it the race like that? I’d expect to see a lot of heat discoloration with bad preload but I’m not super familiar with bearings in this particular application.

I should measure the pinion angle to be sure but it still has stock linkage in the back with the Mopar 2in lift. I wouldn’t think that it’s operating out of recommended angle. I have upgraded to an aftermarket drive shaft- can’t feel any imbalance with it.

I didn’t think about the oil channels. I assume everything in that pinion assembly would need to be pulled to fully check those?

Normally I’d fully agree that the only explanation here is improper installation. But I feel like they’d have a parking lot full of jobs coming back if it was set up that consistently wrong. But, it seems equally implausible to get a bad set of parts this many times in a row- Which is the narrative the shop has given me.

If I didn’t have such a mild build and I neglected maintenance more often I’d point the finger at myself. But break in is followed to the letter and only quality synthetic 75w-140 oil is used. Checked regularly for contamination as well.

Definitely seems like something bigger is going on here and I’m all ears for possible causes and solutions. I greatly appreciate any thoughts.
 

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I know it'll be hard to start over, but I would try another shop that does a lot of JL regears and go with the gear sets they recommend. My .02
 

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In addition to the above, what oil viscosity are you running? If 75W-90 or 8xW-90, move up to 75W-140 which is what Dana recommends. FCA reduced the viscosity for fuel economy (CAFE) and that is not conducive to long axle life.

EDIT: Just saw where you use 75W-140. The pre-load does pop-up as the prime suspect. Hopefully, they are not using JK specifications on your JL.
 
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word302

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Local 4wp has done all the gear work. My front running theory was that the preload wasn’t set properly. But this has been covered under warranty each time, so I’d think they are paying close attention to details like that at this point… but I could be wrong. Could bad preload cause a distinct pit it the race like that? I’d expect to see a lot of heat discoloration with bad preload but I’m not super familiar with bearings in this particular application.

I should measure the pinion angle to be sure but it still has stock linkage in the back with the Mopar 2in lift. I wouldn’t think that it’s operating out of recommended angle. I have upgraded to an aftermarket drive shaft- can’t feel any imbalance with it.

I didn’t think about the oil channels. I assume everything in that pinion assembly would need to be pulled to fully check those?

Normally I’d fully agree that the only explanation here is improper installation. But I feel like they’d have a parking lot full of jobs coming back if it was set up that consistently wrong. But, it seems equally implausible to get a bad set of parts this many times in a row- Which is the narrative the shop has given me.

If I didn’t have such a mild build and I neglected maintenance more often I’d point the finger at myself. But break in is followed to the letter and only quality synthetic 75w-140 oil is used. Checked regularly for contamination as well.

Definitely seems like something bigger is going on here and I’m all ears for possible causes and solutions. I greatly appreciate any thoughts.
I can almost guarantee your issue is improper pinion preload and you can most likely attribute it to one of two things.

1. They have no idea what they’re doing (highly plausible, I wouldn’t let 4WP touch my rig, especially for a gear job).

2. They are using specs from earlier iterations of the D44. The JL calls for significantly less preload and has a tighter tolerance than older versions.

I don’t necessarily think you need to start over (hopefully), but I would have a reputable shop replace that bearing and check the setup. Good luck.
 

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I can almost guarantee your issue is improper pinion preload and you can most likely attribute it to one of two things.

1. They have no idea what they’re doing (highly plausible, I wouldn’t let 4WP touch my rig, especially for a gear job).

2. They are using specs from earlier iterations of the D44. The JL calls for significantly less preload and has a tighter tolerance than older versions.

I don’t necessarily think you need to start over (hopefully), but I would have a reputable shop replace that bearing and check the setup. Good luck.
This (in bold) in combination with the fact they do not know what they are doing...
 
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fdFifty

fdFifty

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I can almost guarantee your issue is improper pinion preload and you can most likely attribute it to one of two things.

1. They have no idea what they’re doing (highly plausible, I wouldn’t let 4WP touch my rig, especially for a gear job).

2. They are using specs from earlier iterations of the D44. The JL calls for significantly less preload and has a tighter tolerance than older versions.

I don’t necessarily think you need to start over (hopefully), but I would have a reputable shop replace that bearing and check the setup. Good luck.
That makes sense. I’m pretty skeptical that the necessary time is taken to check these things to begin with, let alone use the correct specs for this gen. They just did another set up yesterday. Fresh bearings, gears, AND air locker. I’ll either get it checked by someone else or check preload myself.

Most smaller shops around me specialize in hot rod stuff. Lots of Ford 9in etc., not many with 4x4 expertise. but I’m sure I can call around and find someone willing to take the time to double check the latest setup’s pattern and preload.

I was just looking for these sheets! Thanks for sharing!
 

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word302

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That makes sense. I’m pretty skeptical that the necessary time is taken to check these things to begin with, let alone use the correct specs for this gen. They just did another set up yesterday. Fresh bearings, gears, AND air locker. I’ll either get it checked by someone else or check preload myself.

Most smaller shops around me specialize in hot rod stuff. Lots of Ford 9in etc., not many with 4x4 expertise. but I’m sure I can call around and find someone willing to take the time to double check the latest setup’s pattern and preload.



I was just looking for these sheets! Thanks for sharing!
Just realize you have to pull the axles and carrier to check preload.

As far as the hot rod shop is concerned, a diff is a diff. Hot rod shop should be fine.
 

belfonte

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I know this thread is year old, but came across it today.

My guess for what happens with that rear pinion bearing during gear changes is this...

When you get the gear change, and the pattern isn't right, they need to take the pinion back out in order to adjust the shims. And the problem is that the funny "ball-bearing" rear pinion bearing is pressed onto the pinion by the force of the nut and it's a tight interference fit. So then they hammer out the pinion again to get that bearing off to make the shim adjustment. Well... that bearing only makes a fraction of the surface contact as normal roller bearing. If fact, when a little play starts to develop from the hammering, there might be only 4 balls at a time making contact with that little groove they run in. The solution is to make a setup bearing from the old one, like in this video But if the shop isn't doing that, and just hammering out the new bearing a few times to get the shims right, well that's going to make a mess of that sort of bearing.
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