Cut/trim KC Hilites wiring harness when using built-in Aux switches?

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baz

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I'm not a smart man when it comes to electronics, I got it to work using the relay and only chopping off a little bit of the wiring, and I called it a win :)
We literally couldn't be more similar :). I went through the same steps. First time doing anything like this and felt like a miracle when it worked.

But doing it "right" couldn't be any simpler. It's actually the unnecessary harness that makes things confusing.

The instructions are literally:

1. Attach the lights' red wires to the aux wire
2. Attach the lights' black wires to the battery

That's it. I highly recommend it (no pressure lol). Here is an image of my functioning setup:

2019-08-12 12_02_38-Photo - Google Photos - Brave.png
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Dagwood

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We literally couldn't be more similar :). I went through the same steps. First time doing anything like this and felt like a miracle when it worked.

But doing it "right" couldn't be any simpler. It's actually the unnecessary harness that makes things confusing.

The instructions are literally:

1. Attach the lights' red wires to the aux wire
2. Attach the lights' black wires to the battery

That's it. I highly recommend it (no pressure lol). Here is an image of my functioning setup:

2019-08-12 12_02_38-Photo - Google Photos - Brave.png

It's is that simple, the aux switch is already set up fused and relay. Just connect power to aux switch wire and ground to chassis. No need for the double fuse. If your concerned about not being fused correctly then just change the fuse in the factory box to whatever your need is, down not up.

And I do have many years experience in 12v professionally and currently build cars for a living.

My only advice on your pic would be to lose those wire nuts and either solder and heat shrink or get some heat shrink butt connectors, that would water proof your install. Also no need to ground to battery, in your pic lower left corner you'll see and ground bolt. In perfect placement.
 

S2k Chris

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Here’s mine. Don’t mind the tape, it’s soldered and shrink wrap underneath it.

A7696C2E-7ED5-4C7D-AD75-9A195864A470.jpg
 
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Gregj

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@S2k Chris I like the the look of the trimed close-outs. :rock:

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The plastic bat wings that go between the front bumper and the flare on a Sport.
Gregj
 
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S2k Chris

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Thanks, I put those on when I had the whole front end taken apart for the lights. Appreciate your sending the screws with them!
 

S2k Chris

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What are "trimmed close-outs"?
When you take the Euro bumper Wong things off it leaves the back of the bumper (and the fog light hardware etc) open and exposed and it doesn’t look clean. @Gregj was nice enough to send a set that had been trimmed down to close it off to me to install.

1AF086A1-4F88-49BC-97C4-62DCF156FFF6.jpeg
 
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baz

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My only advice on your pic would be to lose those wire nuts and either solder and heat shrink or get some heat shrink butt connectors, that would water proof your install. Also no need to ground to battery, in your pic lower left corner you'll see and ground bolt. In perfect placement.
You're working me to the bone here @Dagwood but I did as you asked:

IMG_20190817_162537.jpg


Thank you :clap:
 

Dagwood

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You're working me to the bone here @Dagwood but I did as you asked:

IMG_20190817_162537.jpg


Thank you :clap:
Looks better and more long term reliable. Now get some split loom and clean and finish the look.
 

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Aux switches 1&2 are rated 40 amps each. The relay with the KC wiring harness is 2x20 amps, so basically the same. Some could contend that there could be a scenario where one wire could pull enough power to not blow a fuse but still melt a wire (and possibly start a fire) but I seriously doubt that would ever happen. IMHO either way of wiring them is perfectly acceptable (I have plenty of education/experience in low-voltage wiring and electronics).
If possible to pick your brain, I have a set of KC flex spots drawing 2 W each total 4 W and a KC flex bar drawing 5 W and I wanted to have all on one Aux switch the 15 W not the 40. Is that doable.
 

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If possible to pick your brain, I have a set of KC flex spots drawing 2 W each total 4 W and a KC flex bar drawing 5 W and I wanted to have all on one Aux switch the 15 W not the 40. Is that doable.

I think you mean that it draws 4amps of current and 5 amps. Those spots are 10 watts each.

If that is the case ,yes you can just hook all grounds to chassis and all power wires to one 15amp switch.

If you want an exact amp pull it would be by dividing the watt total by 12volts to equal amp draw.

Voltage times amperage equals wattage

Wattage = power
Amperage = current drawn
Voltage = 12 volts in this case
 
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Renegade Wrangler

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I think you mean that it draws 4amps of current and 5 amps. Those spots are 10 watts each.

If that is the case ,yes you can just hook all grounds to chassis and all power wires to one 15amp switch.

If you want an exact amp pull it would be by dividing the watt total by 12volts to equal amp draw.

Voltage times amperage equals wattage

Wattage = power
Amperage = current drawn
Voltage = 12 volts in this case
:fist bump: Thank you should I separate the grounds or can they be connected to the same bolt
 
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