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Roky

Roky

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On a trip to town this morning the rear axle was moving around like crazy. Every stop and acceleration I could feel the axle moving back and forth.
So when I got home I decided to tear into my rear lower control arms which are my number one suspect. I’ve been waiting on a spanner tool to take the retaining washers off with, but who knows when its gonna get here.

It sucked but I used a hammer and screwdriver to take off the retaining washers , once I got them off, things got easier. The bushings were so bad all I had to do was push them out with my thumb.....:facepalm:

6A03C963-9455-4CB3-AE05-616F131C8FD9.jpeg
878D7B70-EEC7-49DC-8F47-3845C5752C2E.jpeg
7E6E9B8D-1D4D-4100-AD80-302AC8C92DEB.jpeg


Getting the new bushings on the ball was the hardest part. I don’t have a fancy press so I had to use a vise. I used a 32 mm socket on one side of the vise so the ball would have room to get pushed through, and put the ball against the other side then tightened the vise until it popped on then turn it around and do same thing for other bushing.........

9845A18F-7874-4E68-AA66-D40C93643064.jpeg
EEDB6579-E39F-44B8-B522-DE091D798EA5.jpeg
8D07E058-2A7D-4854-BD90-1C8455DD2025.jpeg


I used the 32mm socket to hammer the assembly into the arm. Then they give you stainless set screws so you can tell by looking at the arm that it’s got the newest bushings .........🙂

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8EEFAFA6-2A79-4586-B8F3-91456EBA0F96.jpeg
05E438B8-E640-42BA-A070-FFDDCE6FD1DA.jpeg





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CalsJLUR

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On a trip to town this morning the rear axle was moving around like crazy. Every stop and acceleration I could feel the axle moving back and forth.
I am getting some noise out of my rear upper Krawler joint. Waiting on these parts and tools as well. Looks like the swap went over without any major issues!
 
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Roky

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I am getting some noise out of my rear upper Krawler joint. Waiting on these parts and tools as well. Looks like the swap went over without any major issues!
Yeah, no problems, I hope the tool you’re getting is the spanner tool, it sucked a little bit hitting a screwdriver with a hammer to turn the threaded retaining washers off, lol.
 
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CalsJLUR

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Yeah, no problems, I hope the tool you’re getting is the spanner tool, it sucked a little bit hitting a screwdriver with a hammer to turn the threaded retaining washers off, lol.
They said that they are sending the tools and replacement bushings. If they are not here by the end of the week, guess I will have to give them a call.

My hope is not to have to use heat to get these undone. But we will see!
 
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Roky

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They said that they are sending the tools and replacement bushings. If they are not here by the end of the week, guess I will have to give them a call.

My hope is not to have to use heat to get these undone. But we will see!
When did you buy your arms ? Did you know about the TSB ? You could be reimbursed. Mine were bought before that time frame, so I’m SOL... lol.

8A959EC2-2D73-4BD2-923E-E034753F716C.jpeg
 
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The Mopar 2” lift.......

I’ve installed over a dozen Mopar lifts over the last couple years on the JL. For whatever reason ( probably anticipating added weight ) the Mopar lift gives more than 2” of lift and they don’t include the parts to make it as it should be. When you get more than 2” of lift your caster is decreased and your axles shift, front to the drivers side and rear to the passenger side. Because everything on the alignment read out doesn’t show anything out of spec, that’s how they justify not adding parts to the lift kit.

Now you can drive it as is on the highway or light trails without issues. But if you’re gonna be off-roading and want it to drive better on the highway then you need to add a few things to the kit, the brand is up to you....

1 - front adjustable track bar to re-center the front axle.
2 - rear track bar relocation bracket if you want to keep factory rear track bar or an adjustable track bar
3 - front lower adjustable control arms to increase your caster ( around 6 or a little more is optimal ) to minimize if not eliminate wandering on the highway.
4 - front lower RK coil spring isolators. This is optional depending on how much spring bow you got and how hard you wheel it, the ones in the kit can collapse.

Some don’t care that things are a little off and are using the kit as is which is fine. There is no real ill effects short term but long term I think the factory lower control arm bushings will wear faster being in a slight bind. Again, this is in more extreme cases.

I have no science to back that up , only a couple guys that came to me a year and a half later with worn bushings. This could also be it’s just the way they use their rig, I don’t know. But I won’t install anymore Mopar lifts if the customer doesn’t have these extra parts with them........

Here’s some pics of a more extreme example........

You can see the axle shifted

F9E2328E-535B-4F64-BBBB-5C1C5E5C5CBF.jpeg


this axle was over an inch off...

E0C6FE91-6706-497E-A8BC-87B14151ED8B.jpeg


A38809B2-8C8A-4299-9193-EEBFCA8F1D8D.jpeg


Here’s a collapsed coil isolator

EA556B0D-06F8-471A-A6CA-DDF744AEEDD9.jpeg


Again this is just a guideline to what to look for and address if you have some of these issues with your Mopar lift. IMHO, if you do these few things you'll enjoy your lift a lot more............:)
 
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hoag4147

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The Mopar 2” lift.......

I want to explain this here so I can just link it when guys ask about it......

I’ve installed over a dozen Mopar lifts over the last couple years on the JL. For whatever reason ( probably anticipating added weight ) the Mopar lift gives more than 2” of lift and they don’t include the parts to make it as it should be. When you get more than 2” of lift your caster is decreased and your axles shift, front to the drivers side and rear to the passenger side. Because everything on the alignment read out doesn’t show anything out of spec, that’s how they justify not adding parr’s to the lift kit.

Now you can drive it as is on the highway or light trails without issues. But if you’re gonna be off-roading and want it to drive better on the highway then you need to add a few things to the kit, the brand is up to you....

1 - front adjustable track bar to re-center the front axle.
2 - rear track bar relocation bracket if you want to keep factory rear track bar or an adjustable track bar
3 - front lower adjustable control arms to increase your caster ( around 6 or a little more is optimal ) to minimize if not eliminate wandering on the highway.
4 - front lower RK coil spring isolators. This is optional depending on how much spring bow you got and how hard you wheel it, the ones in the kit can collapse.

Some don’t care that things are a little off and are using the kit as is which is fine. There is no real ill effects short term but long term I think the factory lower control arm bushings will wear faster being in a slight bind. Again, this is in more extreme cases.

I have no science to back that up , only a couple guys that came to me a year and a half later with worn bushings. This could also be it’s just the way they use their rig, I don’t know. But I won’t install anymore Mopar lifts if the customer doesn’t have these extra parts with them........

Here’s some pics of a more extreme example........

You can see the axle shifted

F9E2328E-535B-4F64-BBBB-5C1C5E5C5CBF.jpeg


this axle was over an inch off...

E0C6FE91-6706-497E-A8BC-87B14151ED8B.jpeg


A38809B2-8C8A-4299-9193-EEBFCA8F1D8D.jpeg


Here’s a collapsed coil isolator

EA556B0D-06F8-471A-A6CA-DDF744AEEDD9.jpeg


Again this is just a guideline to what to look for and address if you have some of these issues with your Mopar lift. IMHO, if you do these few things you'll enjoy your lift a lot more............:)
Awesome write up and great examples of why. Smart move using link - we know you get asked over n over :like:
Write once - cry once :LOL:
 
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Roky

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Got my front lower arms bushings in today. They weren’t as bad as the rears were........

0B29860B-271B-4E60-9652-BEF010BDD1ED.jpeg


My spanner tool still hasn’t shown up from RK, so this is how you take off the threaded retainer, hammer and chisel, when it’s loose I used needle nose to finish twisting them off.......:facepalm:

7E1CF95E-16FA-443A-92A7-1BDC5A11E003.jpeg


2CCC0549-D8E7-4927-ADC1-ADB1E8F2DA64.jpeg


These bushings have notches for grease in 3 locations, you need to line up the two bushings so the notches line up........

F673B7E3-F360-4EEF-97D5-122713B8C8E3.jpeg


Then when you press the assembly into the arm you need to try and line up the notch in the bushing with the grease fitting.......

3C2AD12B-1F39-47CE-948C-9FF37A92394E.jpeg


Then install the threaded retainers, put in the two set screws with blue loctite and that’s it...... Brand new arms.....:)

BB4D249A-65E7-4A99-AA56-C6C1C56931A4.jpeg
 
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Roky

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Moving on to my rear uppers rebuild. They were really worn......










At least my tool finally showed up, cut off a 1/3 of the time......:)

B04F5E86-1BB2-42E7-95CC-C0FDEDE5E1BE.jpeg
EC043784-31A8-4E31-82DF-77A9E3B27067.jpeg
 
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xtremejoe

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Nice job. my RK kit gets installed in 2 weeks (been waiting over 3 months for it now). The tool looks similar to the Rubicon express tool on my TJ lift. When those bushings got warn I would even get clunking like something was loose. Regular maintenance/replacement on them worked well.
 

JimLee

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The Mopar 2” lift.......

I want to explain this here so I can just link it when guys ask about it......

I’ve installed over a dozen Mopar lifts over the last couple years on the JL. For whatever reason ( probably anticipating added weight ) the Mopar lift gives more than 2” of lift and they don’t include the parts to make it as it should be. When you get more than 2” of lift your caster is decreased and your axles shift, front to the drivers side and rear to the passenger side. Because everything on the alignment read out doesn’t show anything out of spec, that’s how they justify not adding parr’s to the lift kit.

Now you can drive it as is on the highway or light trails without issues. But if you’re gonna be off-roading and want it to drive better on the highway then you need to add a few things to the kit, the brand is up to you....

1 - front adjustable track bar to re-center the front axle.
2 - rear track bar relocation bracket if you want to keep factory rear track bar or an adjustable track bar
3 - front lower adjustable control arms to increase your caster ( around 6 or a little more is optimal ) to minimize if not eliminate wandering on the highway.
4 - front lower RK coil spring isolators. This is optional depending on how much spring bow you got and how hard you wheel it, the ones in the kit can collapse.

Some don’t care that things are a little off and are using the kit as is which is fine. There is no real ill effects short term but long term I think the factory lower control arm bushings will wear faster being in a slight bind. Again, this is in more extreme cases.

I have no science to back that up , only a couple guys that came to me a year and a half later with worn bushings. This could also be it’s just the way they use their rig, I don’t know. But I won’t install anymore Mopar lifts if the customer doesn’t have these extra parts with them........

Here’s some pics of a more extreme example........

You can see the axle shifted

F9E2328E-535B-4F64-BBBB-5C1C5E5C5CBF.jpeg


this axle was over an inch off...

E0C6FE91-6706-497E-A8BC-87B14151ED8B.jpeg


A38809B2-8C8A-4299-9193-EEBFCA8F1D8D.jpeg


Here’s a collapsed coil isolator

EA556B0D-06F8-471A-A6CA-DDF744AEEDD9.jpeg


Again this is just a guideline to what to look for and address if you have some of these issues with your Mopar lift. IMHO, if you do these few things you'll enjoy your lift a lot more............:)
You are now officially "The lift whisperer", congratulations. Now check your catch can!
 
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Roky

Roky

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You are now officially "The lift whisperer", congratulations. Now check your catch can!
Thanks for the reminder, I swear I forget that things in there all the time.....:facepalm:..............✌
 
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Roky

Roky

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Nice job. my RK kit gets installed in 2 weeks (been waiting over 3 months for it now). The tool looks similar to the Rubicon express tool on my TJ lift. When those bushings got warn I would even get clunking like something was loose. Regular maintenance/replacement on them worked well.
Thanks Joe.... that’s a long wait but it will be worth it. Seems like everyone is waiting on all different parts these days These new bushings are pretty impressive, I think they’ll last a lot longer. Post pic here, when you get your lift on.
 
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Roky

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Rebuilt front lowers krawler joints today, they were toast......











34577B2C-1714-4EAD-AC57-EF3611F6CB47.jpeg


C9E337FC-6B77-499A-B690-BB44688A413E.jpeg


B0B720ED-99A3-499A-BCE5-E4EBB0E56893.jpeg


Now all I have left to do is front uppers krawler joints and track bars.

New track bar bushings .......

0E778E24-8DA6-4DB2-A52F-F6548E57226C.jpeg
 
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