Couple Noob questions. Please be gentle.

SCJeeps

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The 2.0 has a variable displacement dual stage oil pump. This is done to increase efficiency. What you are experiencing is normal.

 

HellaRubi

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This is why I enjoy this forum. I would have taken it to the dealer thinking it was broken. I mean I was really cranking on it yesterday. I hope the linkage is heavy duty. I'll try it later today.
Second that. Thanks to everybody for their detailed descriptions. Very helpful thread.
 

Chocolate Thunder

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Here’s how the owners manual addresses shifting into and out if 4LO, for reference:

4H To 4L Or 4L To 4H

With the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift an automatic transmission into NEUTRAL (N), or press the clutch pedal on a manual transmission. While the vehicle is coasting at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift the transfer case lever firmly to the desired position. Do not pause with the transfer case in N (Neutral). Once the shift is completed, place the automatic transmission into DRIVE or release the clutch pedal on a manual transmission.

NOTE:

Shifting into or out of 4L is possible with the vehicle completely stopped; however, difficulty may occur due to the mating teeth not being properly aligned. Several attempts may be required for clutch teeth alignment and shift completion to occur. The preferred method is with the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h). Avoid attempting to engage or disengage 4L with the vehicle moving faster than 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h).

After it was well broken in I tried the “fully stopped” 4LO shift. It was much more difficult but eventually I got it. Also, make sure to fully shift it into 4LO firmly or it can pop out of gear into N.

Because it’s so much easier when you’re rolling slightly, it’s best to shift into LO before you find yourself in a situation where it’s needed, such as on an incline, decline, or obstacle. Anticipate the need and shift preemptively. If it wasn’t necessary, no harm done. But if you don’t, you might not easily be able to once you need to.
 


Dkretden

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Well, shit.

Tried the Neutral, (very) slow roll t-case shift.

Shifted like butter. That's embarrassing for me.

Thanks for all the tips.
I was a noob 3 years ago…… and I still don’t know anything compared to most on this board. We all gotta start somewhere….. virtually everyone on this board takes the time to answer everyone’s questions - no matter how “basic”….. keep asking….
 

Capricorn

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2.0, Auto

1) Oil pressure. This is the first vehicle I've had where I can see real-time oil pressure. It runs 19 most of the time, but sometimes climbs to 40+. Is that normal?

2) Trying to shift through 2H, 4H and 4L. Is there trick? My dealer said it takes some muscle, but damn. I was never able to get it in 4L. And had a hell of time just getting it back in 2H.
I thought I was going to bend something or break it.

3) Cool down. With the turbo, is it advisable to idle for a bit before shutdown after a long drive?
For number 3, the Wrangler 3.0L owner's manual specifies idle time based on how it is driven before shutdown - but there is no official idling guideline before shutdown for the 2.0L. But there is no harm in either driving gently for a minute or so before shutting down or idle for 30 seconds after hard driving (high load) or when towing.
 

omnitonic

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It seems to be a sweet spot thing on every 4WD I've driven. The trick seems to be to be rolling juuuuuuust a little bit. It's hard to do under power. It's easier to find a slight incline, so gravity will help you roll just enough to get those gear teeth to mesh.

I've got 10,000 miles on my Jeep, and have shifted in and out of 4L approximately 100 times. It still isn't very smooth, and sometimes it's downright ugly.

My routine is pretty much to shift to 4L at my air down spot, and I switch back to 4H when I air up. I do all my trail running in 4L. This is terrible for gas mileage, but a lot less of a pain in the ass than wrestling in and out of 4L several times during the trip.
 


aldo98229

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Badfish

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It really has to be <1MPH as in barely moving. I put it in drive momentarily, back to neutral, let it roll, hand on the transfer case, when it is almost stopped pull it into 4LO or out of 4LO. Works every time, finger tips only, no grind, no force.
How I imagine it;

vozac-autobusa.gif
 

gato

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Yogi

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The heavy trucks I have worked on saw higher turbo bearing failures when not idled before shut down.
Remember the twin turbo Cats?
The downstream damage was nothing short of amazing, and expensive, when the the intake side of the primary turbo let go. It was more common that the entire intake system, including the head, needed replacing and/or rebuilding. About $30k worth of damage if you had it fixed at a Cat dealer.
 

Carolina Jeeper

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Remember the twin turbo Cats?
The downstream damage was nothing short of amazing, and expensive, when the the intake side of the primary turbo let go. It was more common that the entire intake system, including the head, needed replacing and/or rebuilding. About $30k worth of damage if you had it fixed at a Cat dealer.
I actually never got to work on a twin turbo Cat engine. Mostly I worked on Detroits, Cummins, and some Paccar and Maxxforce.

The only truck I can remember working on back in the day that I think one had twin turbos was the RCR racing semi truck that hauled Dale Earnhardt's racecar. Actually was able to see the number 3 car up close and even underneath it. Performance secrets in that race car for sure that the public never would see.

 

Freeland Jeep
 
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