Couple Noob questions. Please be gentle.

[LuvHydro]

As others have already said, it's normal for both the oil pressure to fluctuate and the t-case lever is as stiff as a ministers dick when new.

I'm also a proud 2.0 turbo owner. These turbos are liquid cooled with antifreeze which is very efficient in helping the center bearing shed heat. They are still lubricated with engine oil, so it's still advisable to avoid coming in hot and heavy and immediately shutting it down. Turbos that rely on the same lubricating oil to also shed bearing heat are what really need a few minutes of idling before shutdown. Oil isn't as efficient as a coolant, so it takes longer. Also, oil flow stops with the engine, so the oil trapped in the turbos bearing housing will "coke". This means that the liquid part of the oil sizzles off and leaves carbon deposits along with any heavy metals and other contaminants that were suspended. This abrasive builds up over time and leads to premature wear and failure of the center bearing and impeller shaft.

I thought I had heard them all, but your description of the t-case lever made me literally bust out laughing.

And yes, I've never owned a turbo, but I remember the horror stories about the bearings in the earlier days.

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[oldcjguy]

2.0, Auto

1) Oil pressure. This is the first vehicle I've had where I can see real-time oil pressure. It runs 19 most of the time, but sometimes climbs to 40+. Is that normal?

2) Trying to shift through 2H, 4H and 4L. Is there trick? My dealer said it takes some muscle, but damn. I was never able to get it in 4L. And had a hell of time just getting it back in 2H.
I thought I was going to bend something or break it.

3) Cool down. With the turbo, is it advisable to idle for a bit before shutdown after a long drive?

1) Totally normal. These engines have a dual pressure mode that's computer controlled. When the engine comes under load the pressure goes right up. It's controlled by the pcm and you're fine.

You've seen all the answers to the second 2 questions, so you're good to go!

 

[gato]

Re your #3 question, the 2.0T has a very sophisticated cooling system for the turbo and the air charge.

You can see the thread below, where we discuss the fact that the 2.0T has an electric cooling pump for the turbo that runs for about 10 min AFTER you shut down the engine.

The Italian engineers took care of that, so you don't have to idle it prior to shutdown.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-on-10-min-after-shutdown.80014/#post-1672496

Enjoy your new Jeep.

 

[Carolina Jeeper]

Going from highway speeds to shutting down too soon without idling is not good for any engine regardless if it's equipped with a turbocharger or not. There are some extreme temperature differentials in the head or heads that need coolant flow to even out especially after highway speeds or hauling or towing heavy stuff. Ever wonder what leads to cracks in heads and head gasket failures?

The heavy trucks I have worked on saw higher turbo bearing failures when not idled before shut down. Usually just lease trucks. This event can be tracked by the vehicle diagnostics equipment. Idle time after driving at highway speeds was very little in those trucks. Owner operators know this and when diagnostics was performed on their trucks, idle times were very high and this was reflected in much lower turbo bearing failures. That oil that sits inside the turbo at shutdown without some cool down idling will be cooked in those bearings. Yes, I see that there is coolant in these new turbochargers helping, but again all that flow stops at shut down.

 

[LuvHydro]

Re your #3 question, the 2.0T has a very sophisticated cooling system for the turbo and the air charge.

You can see the thread below, where we discuss the fact that the 2.0T has an electric cooling pump for the turbo that runs for about 10 min AFTER you shut down the engine.

The Italian engineers took care of that, so you don't have to idle it prior to shutdown.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-on-10-min-after-shutdown.80014/#post-1672496

Enjoy your new Jeep.

Nice, thanks!

 

[Dkretden]

Every time that I try to “roll at 2-3 mph” and shift into 4L, I grind.

so, I just come to a stop. put My automatic into neutral, take my foot off the brake, and shift to 4L. Most of the time I’m not moving at all and have zero grinding. Pop it back into drive and away I go.

 

[ErAcEr]

One of the mechanics I work with has a CJ or YJ (dont remember which) and his advise to me about the 4-HI and 4-LO is even if you dont use them you should put it into those gears around every 3-6 months so that the gears will get some lubrication in the T-Case.

 

[gato]

Every time that I try to “roll at 2-3 mph” and shift into 4L, I grind.

so, I just come to a stop. put My automatic into neutral, take my foot off the brake, and shift to 4L. Most of the time I’m not moving at all and have zero grinding. Pop it back into drive and away I go.

It really has to be <1MPH as in barely moving. I put it in drive momentarily, back to neutral, let it roll, hand on the transfer case, when it is almost stopped pull it into 4LO or out of 4LO. Works every time, finger tips only, no grind, no force.

 

[gato]

One of the mechanics I work with has a CJ or YJ (dont remember which) and his advise to me about the 4-HI and 4-LO is even if you dont use them you should put it into those gears around every 3-6 months so that the gears will get some lubrication in the T-Case.

It is excellent advice. I put my ruby into 4HI regularly to spin the diff. I put it into 4LO/lock/unlock the diffs, lock/unlock the sway bar, at least once a month or the week prior to any offroad trips. Just to make sure all still works well and to exercise the systems.

I can tell you that the transfer case controls stay nice and loose. And the lockers engage/disengage much faster.

 

[AVGeek99]

Is the stiff transfer case the same with a manual transmission. My JK was effortless to get from 2H to 4H. 4H to 4L always required a little effort, but I never had any real issues getting it in our out of 4L. Granted my JK had 27k miles on it when I got it.

Wondering what it will be like on my JL 6Spd.

 

[LittleDog]

@LuvYella during the break-in period, don't expect that shifting the transfer case will by easy or smooth. It's not so much like shifting gears, or going from 'P' to 'D', as it is the quick jerk of grabbing the collar of someone that owes you money. A quick jerk back is better for going from 2Hi to 4Hi. 4Lo is a different matter.

I recommend you wear gloves. Gloves give you 20% more strength and (false?) confidence when performing awkward physical tasks.

Remove any items from the cup holders and the parking brake area. Trust me.

Put the transmission into neutral, and let off the brakes for a slow roll. Easiest to do this on a slight slope. If you don't roll, give a wee bit of throttle. People give a mph number, but it is basically a little bit more than a little bit of movement. Make sure that you move the transfer case shifter to the right, relative to the regular 4Hi position.

Once moving, pull the transfer case shifter sharply back and to the right, like you are trying to suddenly cram it into the cup holder, hard! The ergonomics are weird; it is not a straight backwards pull. More like, "I'm pulling back, but suddenly I want to push downwards and to the right instead". You might smush a finger. Good thing you wore gloves.

The shifter acutally extends and lays awkwardly more diagonal than you will expect. But this weird distended component represents the extra torque you now have available to break things. Good luck.

I second shifting in and out every once in a while for fun and maintenance. You get to play with the hill descent control in 4Lo too. (Only in a straight line on pavement)

 

[blnewt]

Yeah, that 4 Lo takes a bit of practice and a good firm force to fully engage when new. Like others mentioned just a bit of a crawl w/ transmission in Neutral and a good firm downward slam when you've shifted your transfer case down and to the right (into the Neutral area). You may find the transfer case wants to pop out of 4Lo when you're first trying to get this "broken in". You'll get it all figured out with a few trial runs, and also like mentioned, good to give your transfer case some exercise every couple months. You can shift to 4Hi when running up to 45mph from what I''ve read

 

[AlamedaJeep]

Is the stiff transfer case the same with a manual transmission. My JK was effortless to get from 2H to 4H. 4H to 4L always required a little effort, but I never had any real issues getting it in our out of 4L. Granted my JK had 27k miles on it when I got it.

Wondering what it will be like on my JL 6Spd.

Yes, 4H to 4L in a manual still takes some effort. You can make the shift with the clutch depressed instead of putting it into neutral if you like.

 

[AVGeek99]

Yes, 4H to 4L in a manual still takes some effort. You can make the shift with the clutch depressed instead of putting it into neutral if you like.

Yeah I always used the clutch with my JK, even between 2H and 4H, out of habit from my 87 4Runner from back in the day. I learned after a while with my JK that it didn't seem like the clutch was needed between 2H and 4H but I always used it anyway, not going to hurt anything. But yeah, the clutch always seemed to make 4H to 4L go a little easier.

 

[LuvHydro]

This is why I enjoy this forum. I would have taken it to the dealer thinking it was broken. I mean I was really cranking on it yesterday. I hope the linkage is heavy duty. I'll try it later today.

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