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Confirmed: Offset and backspace of stock JL Rubicon wheel

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TroyBoy

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This is a great tool to visually compare wheel specs and different sizes quickly. The basic thing to look for and avoid would be the case where the new wheel & tire combination is closer to the hub than the original correct? As long as the new wheel & tire combo put the inner edge of the tire further away from the hub, then all should be well
While I'm asking for help...I hear you on the offset of +10 to +20 would be the preferred range, but does backspacing come into play or does just focusing on the offset provide the simplest way to gauge?
I doubt like hell you will find a backspace more than stock which is 6 1/8" so I wouldn't worry about it. I run stock wheels without wheel spacers and it works but it wasn't easy. I originally bought a RK 2.5" xfactor lift but had to purchase MetalCloak control arms because they bend inward like stock control arms. My 315/70R17 tires would also turn into the bulky RK swaybar links. I had to purchase synergy swaybar links because they were skinnier at the top. Also note I have a Rubicon. No way a non Rubicon could use stock wheels and larger tires without wheel spacers.
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I doubt like hell you will find a backspace more than stock which is 6 1/8" so I wouldn't worry about it. I run stock wheels without wheel spacers and it works but it wasn't easy. I originally bought a RK 2.5" xfactor lift but had to purchase MetalCloak control arms because they bend inward like stock control arms. My 315/70R17 tires would also turn into the bulky RK swaybar links. I had to purchase synergy swaybar links because they were skinnier at the top. Also note I have a Rubicon. No way a non Rubicon could use stock wheels and larger tires without wheel spacers.
I'm not gonna lie to you, I'm a fan of the stock Rubicon wheels which has held me back in finding something else. At the end, I'll probably just keep going with those for the time being...I've not lifted yet, but thanks for the heads up on what you went through. Ugh, so many options are great to have with more coming down the pipe, but finding the right setup is a whole different story. The right tires, lift, parts to make the lift work, sit right, work right,...oh snap, there's a cool rear bumper...look, squirrel!...feel like a kid at a toy store that can't focus.

Lot's of ways to spend money. Of course, everyone has a 3rd mortgage now a days; right?
 

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Another dummy over here that could use some help. For some reason, have a tough time wrapping my head around offsets, backspacing, etc. Anyway, I purchased ATX Chamber Pro II wheels with 35x12.50x17 BFG KO2 tires for my 2019 JL Rubicon 2 door. I am OK with tires sticking out a bit, but don't want it to be too crazy. Also, I'm not planning on doing a lift now, but am OK doing a small spacer lift if necessary. The guy at Northridge said it would be good, but I'm starting to have some doubts.

Here are the specs of the Chamber Pro II wheels:

· Size: 17X9
· Back Space: 4.06
· Offset: -24

Any help will be much appreciated.

Link to wheels:

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...-ax757-chamber-pro-ii-beadlock-black-17x9-5x5
 
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Another dummy over here that could use some help. For some reason, have a tough time wrapping my head around offsets, backspacing, etc. Anyway, I purchased ATX Chamber Pro II wheels with 35x12.50x17 BFG KO2 tires for my 2019 JL Rubicon 2 door. I am OK with tires sticking out a bit, but don't want it to be too crazy. Also, I'm not planning on doing a lift now, but am OK doing a small spacer lift if necessary. The guy at Northridge said it would be good, but I'm starting to have some doubts.

Here are the specs of the Chamber Pro II wheels:

· Size: 17X9
· Back Space: 4.06
· Offset: -24

Any help will be much appreciated.

Link to wheels:

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...-ax757-chamber-pro-ii-beadlock-black-17x9-5x5
imo, -24 offset is insane for a Rubicon which has longer axles. Factory offset is +44mm and I can tell you they work just fine on a Rubicon with a 2.5" lift (unless you change the control arms to straight ones as the factory control arms are bent inward)

factory offset - new offset = how much further out the tire will be.
44mm - -24mm = 68mm further out than stock. aka 2.7 inches.

You'd be fine with a +12mm offset or a 0mm offset.
Now if you like the look of a -24mm offset then go for it
 

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imo, -24 offset is insane for a Rubicon which has longer axles. Factory offset is +44mm and I can tell you they work just fine on a Rubicon with a 2.5" lift (unless you change the control arms to straight ones as the factory control arms are bent inward)

factory offset - new offset = how much further out the tire will be.
44mm - -24mm = 68mm further out than stock. aka 2.7 inches.

You'd be fine with a +12mm offset or a 0mm offset.
Now if you like the look of a -24mm offset then go for it
Thanks for the info. Again, I ordered based off my conversation with guy at Northridge. Like I said, I'm OK with them sticking out past fender a little bit (Maybe an inch or so), but not much more than that. Would you happen to know roughly how far under the fender the stock wheels/tires are?
 

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Thanks for the info. Again, I ordered based off my conversation with guy at Northridge. Like I said, I'm OK with them sticking out past fender a little bit (Maybe an inch or so), but not much more than that. Would you happen to know roughly how far under the fender the stock wheels/tires are?
My 315/70/17 tread is flush with the fenders and the sidewall bulges out about a half inch more than that. That is with stock wheels and no wheel spacers on a rubicon.

Those wheels with -24mm offset will stick out 2.7 inches further than mine on a rubicon.
A +12mm offset will stick out 32mm which is about 1.25 inches.
 

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Thanks for the info. Again, I ordered based off my conversation with guy at Northridge. Like I said, I'm OK with them sticking out past fender a little bit (Maybe an inch or so), but not much more than that. Would you happen to know roughly how far under the fender the stock wheels/tires are?
This is a great tool to use to show the comparison between wheel offsets & various tire sizes (https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/). You can also use the Offset Converter (tab over) calculator to convert from backspace to offset and vice versa using the wheel width:

upload_2019-1-14_14-17-30.png
 

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Did you end up going with the 4.75 BS , 0 offset on the JL ? I am being offered same spec from a buddy at great, great price. How do you like the set up ?
 

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my friends off-road shop in San Antonio just did this JL a week ago. The customer wanted a 3.5 inch lift put on and they did a - 44 on this wheel as you can see it fits pretty good.

Screenshot_20180419-192140_Messages.jpg
What is the wheel and tire specs on this?
 

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Here is a really cool visual calculator:
https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/
tire.jpg

Alright, trying to use the tool for comparison and wrap my tiny brain around all of this. I think I understand my situation but hoping for clarification.

I'm currently running 315x70r17 on factory wheels with 1.75" spidertrax spacers. The plan is to go with 37x13.5r17 and eliminate the spacers...

1.75" = 44.45 mm and if I'm thinking correctly wheel spacers = negative offset, right?

44.45mm (factory) - 44.45mm (spacers)= 0
So, effectively, I'm currently sitting at 0 offset as a basis for comparison, correct?
 
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This is a great tool to visually compare wheel specs and different sizes quickly. The basic thing to look for and avoid would be the case where the new wheel & tire combination is closer to the hub than the original correct? As long as the new wheel & tire combo put the inner edge of the tire further away from the hub, then all should be well


I have JLUR going from stock 33’s to probably the wheels & tires below and will put them on as is for now... I will be lifting soon after with the mopar lift kit for Turbo 2.0... So if I go with the following do I need to worry about any rubbing at full turn / extended? I could pick either 0 or -18 offset on the wheels...


Black Rhino - Reno Candy Red - 17 x 9 with -18 offset
Nitto Ridge grappler - 35 x 12.5 x 17

Wheels:
https://www.wheelmax.com/wheel/13186/black-rhino-reno/?finishID=4242&fpart=1797509&fit=0&sizeID=33297&wheelImageID=56104


Tires:

https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/ridge-grappler-light-truck-tire/

The tire tool was a huge help so thanks to everyone for providing the details...
 
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Alright, trying to use the tool for comparison and wrap my tiny brain around all of this. I think I understand my situation but hoping for clarification.

I'm currently running 315x70r17 on factory wheels with 1.75" spidertrax spacers. The plan is to go with 37x13.5r17 and eliminate the spacers...

1.75" = 44.45 mm and if I'm thinking correctly wheel spacers = negative offset, right?

44.45mm (factory) - 44.45mm (spacers)= 0
So, effectively, I'm currently sitting at 0 offset as a basis for comparison, correct?
I believe so.
 

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Alright, trying to use the tool for comparison and wrap my tiny brain around all of this. I think I understand my situation but hoping for clarification.

I'm currently running 315x70r17 on factory wheels with 1.75" spidertrax spacers. The plan is to go with 37x13.5r17 and eliminate the spacers...

1.75" = 44.45 mm and if I'm thinking correctly wheel spacers = negative offset, right?

44.45mm (factory) - 44.45mm (spacers)= 0
So, effectively, I'm currently sitting at 0 offset as a basis for comparison, correct?
IF and only if the aftermarket wheels are 7.5" wide like the factory wheels are.

But, most aftermarket wheels are 8.5" or greater in width, so that's yet another inch or more outside the fenders that they'll protrude. Make sure you account for that.

That's why I always tell guys that +18 to +25mm offset is the sweet spot.
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