JLURD
Well-Known Member
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- #1
Went to the arctic circle over the weekend to push the JLURD for its second run on the Dalton Highway and came back impressed. Insights galore…
1. I’ve been running a radiator cover in AK for the last couple winters…basically above 10F, not needed, 0-10F nice to have, below zero, definitely worth it but do vent the thing or your climate control will be screwed by false outside temps.
2. My n of 1 runs like a top even when it gets stupid cold…ie -33F…currently has 33,000 miles.
3. I usually run opti-lube xpd for cetane, lubricity and anti-gel (Alaska diesel supply all has either additive or kerosene already from the pump but peace of mind is nice when people are sporadically hosed by it being inadequate)…turns out below about -20F standard xpd starts to move rather slowly in the bottle…not gel but likely worth using their winter mix in such temps.
4. The block heater is very nice to have when your 3.0 is left outside below zero. Fortunately Fairbanks hotels have plugs for their entire parking lots. I’ve started my 3.0 from -13F without the block heated before and a slow turnover…at -24F it was just as slow with the heater on so I’m guessing it’ll fail to crank somewhere in there without the heater depending on battery condition.
Some non-3.0 observations.
1. When the outside temp is 108 degrees less than the inside temp (or even a 75 degree differential), the roof panels will start to creak along the seals. Just partially unclamp them, drive a minute for them to re-seat, and clamp back down.
2.Good luck finding air hoses that remain flexible below -20F. I ran at 20 psi to smooth out the rough patches of ice on the Dalton and almost couldn’t air back up. Similar story with my AEV fuel caddy siphon tube and extension cord for the block heater.
3. Nokian Hakkapeliita LT2s are the best 35” snow tires on the market. If only they came in a 37…
4. My gorilla glass has now taken 3 stones that would have absolutely cracked the original windshield and simply left pinpoint gouges in the surface coating. Ice road truckers haul ass and kick nasty stuff at your rig on the regular.
1. I’ve been running a radiator cover in AK for the last couple winters…basically above 10F, not needed, 0-10F nice to have, below zero, definitely worth it but do vent the thing or your climate control will be screwed by false outside temps.
2. My n of 1 runs like a top even when it gets stupid cold…ie -33F…currently has 33,000 miles.
3. I usually run opti-lube xpd for cetane, lubricity and anti-gel (Alaska diesel supply all has either additive or kerosene already from the pump but peace of mind is nice when people are sporadically hosed by it being inadequate)…turns out below about -20F standard xpd starts to move rather slowly in the bottle…not gel but likely worth using their winter mix in such temps.
4. The block heater is very nice to have when your 3.0 is left outside below zero. Fortunately Fairbanks hotels have plugs for their entire parking lots. I’ve started my 3.0 from -13F without the block heated before and a slow turnover…at -24F it was just as slow with the heater on so I’m guessing it’ll fail to crank somewhere in there without the heater depending on battery condition.
Some non-3.0 observations.
1. When the outside temp is 108 degrees less than the inside temp (or even a 75 degree differential), the roof panels will start to creak along the seals. Just partially unclamp them, drive a minute for them to re-seat, and clamp back down.
2.Good luck finding air hoses that remain flexible below -20F. I ran at 20 psi to smooth out the rough patches of ice on the Dalton and almost couldn’t air back up. Similar story with my AEV fuel caddy siphon tube and extension cord for the block heater.
3. Nokian Hakkapeliita LT2s are the best 35” snow tires on the market. If only they came in a 37…
4. My gorilla glass has now taken 3 stones that would have absolutely cracked the original windshield and simply left pinpoint gouges in the surface coating. Ice road truckers haul ass and kick nasty stuff at your rig on the regular.
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