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Cobra CB Help - secondary fuse IS NOT needed?

LUCKYSTRIKE

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Ok. Installation complete. Power is fine and channel 1 was 1.2 and channel 40 was 1.4.

The above photos are of the battery and the ground. I was limited to where I could ground due to the length of the wire. Will the ground be safe?
when you attached to the positive terminal, did you have it grounded first? Also, did you have any issues with radio resetting and such? Thanks.
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Csward12

Csward12

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when you attached to the positive terminal, did you have it grounded first? Also, did you have any issues with radio resetting and such? Thanks.
Hey, I grounded it after. No issues thus far, at all.
 

RedTRex

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THAT SAID.....it is "incorrect". You should always wire a radio directly to the battery (to eliminate ignition noise) and fuse the hot lead somewhere close to the battery. Remember, the fuse isn't just there to protect the circuits of the radio, its there to keep you from burning your jeep down if the hot lead grounds itself between the battery and your radio.
Actually sir, the main reason you wire your CB direct to battery is so you can call still for help if you otherwise lose power
 

jawest12

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I have the Midland, which is entirely contained within the hand set, no box. I plug it right into the lighter, and into the antenna coax. Its fuse is within the lighter plug.

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THAT SAID.....it is "incorrect". You should always wire a radio directly to the battery (to eliminate ignition noise) and fuse the hot lead somewhere close to the battery. Remember, the fuse isn't just there to protect the circuits of the radio, its there to keep you from burning your jeep down if the hot lead grounds itself between the battery and your radio.

In addition to the Midland CB, I also have a small 25w VHF/UHF (ham) radio in the jeep too. It has THREE fuses. One on the hot lead within 4" of the terminal that connects to the battery (to prevent fires from it grounding to the frame on its path to the radio through the firewall), one on the hot lead coming off of the back of the radio (the radio has a 8" wire harness off the back, so it gets its own fuse to protect that run of wire from grounding fires), and the third is inside the radio within its power supply (to protect the radio itself).

Over redundant? Maybe when viewed as an entire unit, but not when you look at each individual electrical component (the harness coming from the battery, the harness coming out of the radio, and the radio itself). If you are wiring directly to the battery, you're piping in all ~45-ish amp hours from the main battery, un switched, into your passenger compartment. Thats 2 solid amps for 20 hours if theres a short happening somewhere along the way.

After all, an inline fuse kit is what....a dollar or two? Very cheap insurance, and very easy to install.





A side note about the VHF/UHF:

I had originally wanted to (illegally) just amplify my CB to be able to reach the nearest town where I wheel If I ever needed help (about 15 miles away, theoretically 100w on a CB could get you 40-60 miles of range without skip). I decided against it (because its illegal), and went the legal route with an Amateur license and ham radio. THOROUGHLY impressed with this cheap Chinese unit. Im able to hit repeaters in Toledo OH from the south west side of Detroit (38 miles). The big repeater in northern MI where I wheel at has a range radius of 100 miles. So, in theory, assuming I can connect to that repeater from the national forrest 40 miles away, the repeater will retransmit my signal from mid Michigan all the way up to the straights of Mackinac. It also gives you access to the Marine/ MURS/ FRS/ GMRS/ rescue freqs (not legal to talk on with an Amateur license, but if you need emergency help outside of cell range its possible to do so). Not to mention Auto Patches (access to the phone system through the radio) or D-STAR system (internet access).

So much more than just vehicle to vehicle comms within a mile or two. Which, of course, it can still do.

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Where, did you mount your vhf/uhf radio and antenna?
 

Fuel Fire Desire

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Where, did you mount your vhf/uhf radio and antenna?
I used a black stainless L bracket sheet metal screwed to the fender pinch weld seam hidden under the plastic cowl corner. The antenna I have is not small, or light, and it takes a beating on trees. No issues. Both the 2m/70cm and 11m antennas are on springs, and the 2m/70cm has a fold over base.


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jawest12

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I used a black stainless L bracket sheet metal screwed to the fender pinch weld seam hidden under the plastic cowl corner. The antenna I have is not small, or light, and it takes a beating on trees. No issues. Both the 2m/70cm and 11m antennas are on springs, and the 2m/70cm has a fold over base.


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That's perfect, thanks for the pictures. I was having a hard time deciding where to install an antenna in that area.
 

RubenZ

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I used a black stainless L bracket sheet metal screwed to the fender pinch weld seam hidden under the plastic cowl corner. The antenna I have is not small, or light, and it takes a beating on trees. No issues. Both the 2m/70cm and 11m antennas are on springs, and the 2m/70cm has a fold over base.


56gg3Q6l.jpg



XLQl0gwl.jpg



iXSlqdBl.jpg


UtQaJ0rl.jpg
Thats a nice setup. Is it this Radio. I know some of these chinese knockoffs will run under different names. Also, is it hard going about getting your Amateur Radio license? Can it be done online?
 

Fuel Fire Desire

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Thats a nice setup. Is it this Radio. I know some of these chinese knockoffs will run under different names. Also, is it hard going about getting your Amateur Radio license? Can it be done online?

Yep, same radio. It’s been great. Huge reach with the antenna I have installed. Reliable 40 mile contacts can be had in suburbia no problem. And unlike CB people are always on it, even in the boondocks, and all are professional.

My only complaint is that the JL makes A LOT of VHF noise when running and the transmission in gear. Because of this I almost exclusively run UHF while driving, and only use VHF when parked. This isn’t a radio issue, as every VHF radio I have gets the same interference inside the JL. Even ferrite chokes on everything doesn’t clean it up. I have a feeling it’s the JL’s BCU or ECU making all the noise.


The three radio tests all must be taken in person, on paper, in a designated testing center, with a proctor present. Most of the time it’s just at a local radio club meeting. $15 per attempt. If you’ve ever taken an FAA written....it’s the same thing, but on paper. The questions are structured in the same way. With the FOIA, all the possible questions and answers are available to the public. About 300 possible questions on a 25 or 30 question exam. ARRL makes a super handy and idiot proof book that not only has every question and answer in it, but also simple explanations of everything. A month of casual study and you’ll ace it.

If you already have a good understanding of electronics and radio theory, the Technician exam is pretty easy. The only new stuff you’ll encounter is the regulations involved. The General and Extra go way more in depth with theory and engineering. But if all you want to do is operate that radio, the Technician is all you need.
 

RubenZ

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Wow, I really appreciate the info. Very helpful.
 

Darter02

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Awesome thread. I am currently researching how to install my CB antenna. This thread made me curious about mounting my antenna on a better "ground plane" than the tailgate.

Does anyone have more options on where to mount my antenna besides the tailgate?

I've been told that the amount of cable that was provided with my unit , the Cobra 75, is needed for proper operation of the radio and to not coil it but to "run it around" the body. If true, how'd people handle that having the mount up front?
 
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Darter02

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Another dumb question, I learned about using braided ground straps to ground the tailgate to the tub. If I were to mount my antenna to somewhere that I couldn't ensure a good metal to metal ground of the mounting bolts, can I use a ground strap to connect the base of the antenna to the frame?
 

prerunner1982

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Awesome thread. I am currently researching how to install my CB antenna. This thread made me curious about mounting my antenna on a better "ground plane" than the tailgate.

Does anyone have more options on where to mount my antenna besides the tailgate?

I've been told that the amount of cable that was provided with my unit , the Cobra 75, is needed for proper operation of the radio and to not coil it but to "run it around" the body. If true, how'd people handle that having the mount up front?
Another dumb question, I learned about using braided ground straps to ground the tailgate to the tub. If I were to mount my antenna to somewhere that I couldn't ensure a good metal to metal ground of the mounting bolts, can I use a ground strap to connect the base of the antenna to the frame?
The front driver side fender is better and you should be able to get a good ground there, however it wouldn't hurt to run some braided ground straps from the hood to the body. Body to the frame in multiple areas and a couple from the exhaust to the frame would be good as well. This helps unit the vehicle into one mass and can help to eliminate some RFI.
IF you have a properly mounted, grounded, and tuned antenna the coax length is irrelevant, whatever it takes to get from the antenna to the radio is sufficient. The exceptions are if you are using a NGP (No Ground Plane) or dual antennas where the coax is part of the antenna operation.
 

Darter02

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The front driver side fender...
Cool beans! Thank you! You gave me some good ideas.

I was outside figuring out where to put my antenna. I have some side/cowl mounts already installed for my fog lights. That has a wide, metal plate that has an empty spot well behind my light. It would be about four inches from my cowl, and just before the back of the hood where it folds up. I'll include a photo I have on my laptop, you can kind of see where I have the fog lights next to the cowl.

I'm guessing now that this is not the best, but on my actual front fender is where I want it? And in all the way to the front, or above the tire, vent?

I appreciate your help. I'll be ordering those braided bands I found online cheap!

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prerunner1982

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@Darter02 those mounts would probably work, if you use a spring on the antenna it may make contact with the windshield. You may want to test that out and see. The windshield frame may cause some tuning issues. I typically prefer a little further out on the fender myself, about where the vent it and I prefer metal whip antennas as opposed to the fiberglass antennas that are popular. I run a Browning BR140-b cb antenna. It is capable of a pretty wide range so it does require some tuning that is easier to be done with an antenna analyzer than a SWR meter, but it can be done...measure twice cut once. I also see you are running limb risers, the metal in that may or may not cause tuning issues as well. Mobile communications is about compromises.... an antenna shorter than a 1/4 wavelength (102"+/-)..compromise..... antenna not mounted in the middle of the vehicle on a large piece of metal.... compromise.... antenna mounted low and near body panels.... compromise and it all effects your signal. This is part of the reason many are starting to migrate to GMRS including Jeep Jamboree. It is easier to work with, the antennas are smaller so can more easily be mounted up high, need less metal ground plane, and antennas are pretty much plug in play rarely needing to be tuned.

Not sure what strap you are looking at buying but here is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HGHQYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 With some ring terminals you can make straps any length you need/want.
 

Darter02

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@prerunner1982 Cool beans. I already ordered a fender mount and am placing it driver's side forward of my side vents. Someone pointed out that microwaved brains could ruin my drive. I also order grounding straps and rings. I plan on grounding as much together as I can, including my risers.

Thanks!
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