Clutch Recall (FCA W12 | 20V-124) on 2018-2020 JL Manuals [overheating clutch pressure plate]

[krweatherl]

My nieces 2018 JL burned to the ground after her clutch fail catastrophically 1 day after have the clutch recall done. Please don’t ignore this problem.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...er-recall-burns-2018-jlu-to-the-ground.98834/

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[krweatherl]

Here’s mine

It looks like in this case the rivets failed on the 2 piece flywheel letting the complete clutch assembly fly loose. The more I look into this the more I’m convinced a solid flywheel like the Centerforce flywheel is the answer to the catastrophic failure issues.

 

[krweatherl]

Here’s mine

It looks like in this case the rivets failed on the 2 piece flywheel letting the complete clutch assembly fly loose. The more I look into this the more I’m convinced a solid flywheel like the Centerforce flywheel is the answer to the catastrophic failure issues.

 

[nomographer]

Don't recall if it was here or another thread that asked about DOT5, but I just stumbled on this:

 

[fspalt]

Don't recall if it was here or another thread that asked about DOT5, but I just stumbled on this:

I had mentioned it in another thread. So essentially we can “upgrade” to DOT 5.1 for more longevity and possibly better performance in hot environments. I may give this a go if I end up upgrading the clutch or when doing a brake service. Does anyone know the service procedure during a brake service. Since the clutch and brakes use the same fluid reservoir does the procedure call to bleed both the brake and clutch hydraulics?

 

[3Pedalsand4Wheeldrive]

I had something similar happen a few months back. They never ended up covering it.
jeep-dealer-will-not-put-clutch-or-transmission-under-warranty-50k-miles.85831

 

[58Willys]

*(just a note I'll post this on a couple different similar threads)

For an update, I've had the CF new hydraulic system for almost 3 months now and FINALLY got to install it. It's a pain having to remove the transmission to install the slave cylinder, but WOW what a difference!

Engagement is super smooth and linear. The factory setup was applying more pressure on the driver side of the clutch than the passenger, essentially "cocking" it sideways and preventing the clutch from fully disengaging. It was likely a contributing factor to the few units that failed spectacularly.

This new unit sits over the input shaft and applies force evenly to the clutch I would recommend it to everyone, even those still running a stock clutch.

Interesting! Can you explain how the stock system applied pressure unevenly?

 

[Toycrusher]

Interesting! Can you explain how the stock system applied pressure unevenly?

Picture someone trying to open your front door. If you stand inside at the knob end, you have a fair chance of preventing the door from opening. If you stood at the hinge side, you would have no chance of keeping the door closed.

Now picture being in the middle of the door trying to hold the door closed. It would be difficult, as the other person has a 2:1 mechanical leverage advantage. The throwout bearing is you, in the middle of the door. As the door opens in an arc, the knob side travels twice as far as the hinge side, putting more pressure one one side than the other.

This is of course an exaggeration, as we're only talking about 2.5" of travel in the slave cylinder, but you get the idea of what's happening.

 

[Kreepin1]

Interesting! Can you explain how the stock system applied pressure unevenly?

Sometimes a picture helps. This schematic shows how a typical clutch works. In particular, the red fork has a pivot point (the gray phallic thing). In this image when you press down on the outside of the fork, the inside of the fork moves up, sliding the throwout bearing along a hollow tube mounted to the transmission (the input bearing retainer or sleeve).

But like @Toycrusher says, the end of the fork has to move in an arc, so the dark red pivot point centered on the throwout bearing is a fiction. It has to move slightly from side to side as the fork goes through it's arc. Normally this isn't a problem because the input bearing retainer keeps the throwout bearing parallel to the flywheel and clutch.

FCA chose to do things a little differently, they extended the fork all the way to the other side of the bellhousing - likely in an effort to minimize the effect of the arc. In the picture below one end of the black fork is the pivot point, the other is pressed by the slave cylinder, and the middle presses on the throwout bearing, thus the analogy to a door.

 

[Toycrusher]

Sometimes a picture helps. This schematic shows how a typical clutch works. In particular, the red fork has a pivot point (the gray phallic thing). In this image when you press down on the outside of the fork, the inside of the fork moves up, sliding the throwout bearing along a hollow tube mounted to the transmission (the input bearing retainer or sleeve).

But like @Toycrusher says, the end of the fork has to move in an arc, so the dark red pivot point centered on the throwout bearing is a fiction. It has to move slightly from side to side as the fork goes through it's arc. Normally this isn't a problem because the input bearing retainer keeps the throwout bearing parallel to the flywheel and clutch.

FCA chose to do things a little differently, they extended the fork all the way to the other side of the bellhousing - likely in an effort to minimize the effect of the arc. In the picture below one end of the black fork is the pivot point, the other is pressed by the slave cylinder, and the middle presses on the throwout bearing, thus the analogy to a door.

Thanks for that post. In theory, it should be just fine, as the bearing is supposed to wobble on the fork to allow for the arc, but in reality, it's not moving smoothly and evenly. You can see some heat marks and minor scoring on my input shaft sleeve

 

[Kreepin1]

Thanks for that post. In theory, it should be just fine, as the bearing is supposed to wobble on the fork to allow for the arc, but in reality, it's not moving smoothly and evenly. You can see some heat marks and minor scoring on my input shaft sleeve

My first off-roader was a 1970 Scout. At some point that sleeve broke. Being a poor college student I replaced it but not the throwout bearing or clutch. It broke again in short order. Assuming it was defective I replaced it again. And it returned the favor by breaking again. On closer inspection I found the ID of the throwout bearing was worn and was wobbling on the shaft, causing it to break. So, lesson learned. Those are wear items and need to be inspected and replaced as necessary.

 

[58Willys]

Thanks for the explanation, makes perfect sense now.

 

[Sid845]

Just saw this:

NHTSA Recall Number: 20V-124

Recall Date: March 3, 2020

Manufacturer Recall Number: W12

SUMMARY:
In some circumstances, the clutch pressure plate may become overheated through friction, which may lead the pressure plate to fracture. A fractured pressure plate may crack or fracture the transmission case, allowing heated debris to contact ignition sources on the vehicle, potentially leading to a vehicle fire. A fractured pressure plate may also lead to a loss of propulsion, or generation of road debris.

SAFETY RISK:
If the heated clutch components ignite a fuel source, a vehicle fire can result, which increases the risk of occupant injury and injury to persons outside the vehicle, as well as property damage.

REMEDY:
The remedy for this condition is currently under development. Dealers will be notified of the launch of this safety recall by way of established communication methods.

RECALL STATUS:
Recall INCOMPLETE. Remedy not yet available

MANUFACTURER NOTES:
For more information, visit recalls.mopar.com or call 1-800-853-1403. Please have your VIN ready when calling.


More info:

It's 2023 and they still don't have a remedy for this, if anyone got their jeep fixed can you let me know what you did please? I've been driving to work everyday, with this issue. And last week it upgraded to revving on it own while I'm driving.

 

[ALRUI]

It's 2023 and they still don't have a remedy for this, if anyone got their jeep fixed can you let me know what you did please? I've been driving to work everyday, with this issue. And last week it upgraded to revving on it own while I'm driving.

If it's actually revving up while at a steady state cruise and the clutch isn't depressed at all with no increase in forward momentum your clutch is slipping and needs to be repaired ASAP!

 

[Sid845]

If it's actually revving up while at a steady state cruise and the clutch isn't depressed at all with no increase in forward momentum your clutch is slipping and needs to be repaired ASAP!

I have an appointment this Thursday, I'll have them replace the clutch, hopefully that fixes the grinding noise too

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