Clutch Recall (FCA W12 | 20V-124) on 2018-2020 JL Manuals [overheating clutch pressure plate]

ALRUI

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I was able to get some Jeep warrantee done, the service advisor asked about the W12 update and I told him "not today", he annotated on computer not to do the update. No issues. The funny thing I left the JLScan cable and module plugged into the OBDII port to see what they would say. Got Jeep repaired and washed and told to have a great weekend.
What do you use the can cable for? Tazer of something?
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beachbumm78

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Running heavy Nitto 40" Trail's, and the Jeep's pretty heavy, too. Gears are 5.13's. While they are indeed working great, if I were to re-gear again soon (or upgrade my axles) I would definitely go with 5.38's.

My JLUR is a manual, and I am able to use 6th gear above 70. The crazy thing is I generally get 15.6-16 MPG just about every tank, And yes, the speedo is calibrated.
Great info! Mines a manual also and I do good to hit 5th now. That’s barely a cruising speed. And we won’t even discuss mpg. It tanked. Went from 17-18MPG to 12-13MPG. Looking forward to a regear. I also have front and rear bumpers.
 

beachbumm78

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I have 5.13’s/ 37’s and still need to use 4th gear on certain hills. Not every time though, even on the same hill. The wind absolutely has an effect lol. 6th gets me up small inclines but nothing more. Sometimes I even cruise in 5th because I tend to stay around 70.

I consider my Jeep “light”. No rear bumper, stubby front, synthetic winch line, soft top, no power windows. Stock skids and an oil panskid only (evo) and JCR sliders. Stock plastic fenders/ liners. Half the back seat removed.

So what I’m saying is, if my Jeep had a bunch of stuff on it, huge bumpers, extra skids, roof rack, tent, fuel cans etc. I’d go 5.38’s every day of the week.
Good to know. I do have front and rear bumpers. Will be adding in sliders, winch, and underbelly protection.
 

Az-jewel

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I had 4.88 with my 37s and 6th gear was useless unless you were flat or down hill.
This. I’ve got 4.88’s, manual sport and on 37’s I’d like to regear again! 5.13 or 5.38’s next time!
 

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_olllllllo_

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Finally got mine updated. Haven’t noticed the crooked 6 b/c I haven’t even made it to that gear. Completely useless now. It’ll stay that way also until I regear. I knew it was a chance I may have to going to 37s and they were right. Definitely will need a regear to get back my 6 gearing. Haha
I went to 35s and regeared to 5.13s (towing a 2700 lb trailer to overland) and they are awesome. I have 6th and it will old 65 when in cruise control in 6th up a 2-3% grade towing the trailer. I am turning 2350 rpms in 6th at 65 mph.
 

_olllllllo_

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Great info! Mines a manual also and I do good to hit 5th now. That’s barely a cruising speed. And we won’t even discuss mpg. It tanked. Went from 17-18MPG to 12-13MPG. Looking forward to a regear. I also have front and rear bumpers.
I am getting about 19.2 mpg with 35s and 5.13s. I got 14.6 mpg towing a 2500 lb trailer 300 miles on Saturday and was pretty happy with that mileage driving at 65 mph.
 

_olllllllo_

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Great info! Mines a manual also and I do good to hit 5th now. That’s barely a cruising speed. And we won’t even discuss mpg. It tanked. Went from 17-18MPG to 12-13MPG. Looking forward to a regear. I also have front and rear bumpers.
The shop in Tucson that did my regear is Lloyd's and he is the only one to go to down here. I don't know who the go to shop in the Phoenix metro is, but Darrell at Lloyd's (his dads shop originally) recommends dana/spicer gears since they are OEM. They have been great for me so far and Darrell is super knowledgeable with great customer service.
 

beachbumm78

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I am getting about 19.2 mpg with 35s and 5.13s. I got 14.6 mpg towing a 2500 lb trailer 300 miles on Saturday and was pretty happy with that mileage driving at 65 mph.
That’s not bad at all! Regearing is my next to-do. Once I get my steering fixed. I know a shop or two here in Phoenix that’s solid; but I’ll keep that in mind in Tucson. Thanks!
 

Jeeper352

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Mine started to act up, not quite releasing all the way. I have bled it myself, it helped, but a trip to dealer is in the future. For anyone that want to try it themselves, forget the Mitivac, or the pump the pedal method. That isn't going to do anything.

Jeep designed the hose connection and the bleed valve to enter the slave cylinder at the same point. If you try the old fashion methods, the fluid from the master cylinder will just bypass the slave cylinder.

What I did was push the clutch pedal in by hand and placed a board between the seat and pedal to keep it there. Then climb under an open the bleed valve. BTW, the bleed valve is a toolless design, just turn it by hand. Keep a rag over it because the fluid will come out with some gusto. Then close the valve and climb out from under the Jeep.

When you pull the board, the clutch pedal will not come up off the floor by itself. Just pull it up. Then repeat the process.

One other thing to note is the slave is sloped the wrong way. Air will not move to the bleeder valve naturally. I put the rear up on ramps to make sure the back end of the slave was higher than the front.

Pete
Plus 1 to this!!! I’ve bled clutch multiple times w tiny air bubbles still remaining. I raised rear today (using driveway incline) and got clear fluid right away when bleeding!!!! My clutch feels totally different and predictable disengage point!!! I think this fixed my clutch issue w the manual!!!!!! I wonder how many people would benefit from trying this. I wonder if it’s not done properly at factory
 

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After the software update for the recall, I assume that the dealer resets the tire size and gear ratio, as that is part of the magic 'formula'? Curious if they provided an 'options report' with proof of those settings, or if it was just assumed to be input correctly, and then checked with a Tazer.
 
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