Clutch Recall (FCA W12 | 20V-124) on 2018-2020 JL Manuals [overheating clutch pressure plate]

DanW

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Not to seemingly change the subject but since this thread was about the clutch recall, I'm here to say I have apparently gone full circle. I had a leak in the line between the brake reservoir and the clutch control cylinder. (The first recall was supposedly done, too!) After four trips to my dealer, they replaced the line and now it doesn't leak. They said they bled it; but it now acts totally different, with the first half of pedal travel doing absolutely nothing and clutch release happening just slightly before the pedal hits the floor. Now I think I have a poor bleed that I didn't have before and I am worried that now I just may eventually have a clutch problem brewing. Thoughts? Please, please don't make me go back to my dealer ever again....
You might contact Stellantis directly or even @JeepCares to see if they can get tech support for that dealershp. That could come in the form of someone at the regional level coming there to assist them or actually do the job for them. It is certainly time to go above that dealership. I'd bet they take it seriously because that is the very issue that leads to the big problem.
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Toycrusher

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Not to seemingly change the subject but since this thread was about the clutch recall, I'm here to say I have apparently gone full circle. I had a leak in the line between the brake reservoir and the clutch control cylinder. (The first recall was supposedly done, too!) After four trips to my dealer, they replaced the line and now it doesn't leak. They said they bled it; but it now acts totally different, with the first half of pedal travel doing absolutely nothing and clutch release happening just slightly before the pedal hits the floor. Now I think I have a poor bleed that I didn't have before and I am worried that now I just may eventually have a clutch problem brewing. Thoughts? Please, please don't make me go back to my dealer ever again....
Just pick an independent shop and have them bleed it for you. Won't cost more than an hour labor charge and they might actually care about their reputation and do a good job. You can also do it yourself in your driveway but it can be a bit tricky
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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Just pick an independent shop and have them bleed it for you. Won't cost more than an hour labor charge and they might actually care about their reputation and do a good job. You can also do it yourself in your driveway but it can be a bit tricky
Good advice. That’s what I’d do. $100 is cheap when you consider the peace of mind that’ll come from not arguing with a dealership.
 

bwright1818

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I do have a hand vacuum tool for bleeding brakes. I was just trying to avoid downloading a pricey manual for the thing, quite yet....The whole point of replacing my '97 TJ with this JL was so I wouldn't have to be under my car on Sunday afternoon, when all my neighbors were going off in every direction to have actual fun....Regarding the dealership, and they wonder why we won't bring them the vehicle to even change the oil.....
 

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You know I drove back 30mi yesterday in the Cascade foothills and basically had it in cruise the entire way. This got me pondering the complaints and wondering if people are simply shifting under the wrong circumstances. In short, there's not likely to be much benefit from a downshift if you're only going up a rise for ten seconds; just leave it alone. If you have a one mile hill to ascend, then yes downshifting should help fuel economy (and since you can do it while cruising on the flat part you can beat the auto :clap:).

Unfortunately the BSFC maps are hard/impossible to get, so those result (quantities) are based on estimates of fuel economy from memory. Sorry I don't have a camera pointed at my dash to correlate the economy and GPS track data. Maybe an experiment for some other day... after I get the recall when the gear is displayed there as well. :giggle:

I've also noticed for many long hills, when I stay in high gear initially just to compare, it may only be 1mpg more efficient to climb in the lower gear. If it was 10mpg versus 20mpg, maybe, but at 10mpg versus 11mpg it's not worth it if you're really feeling lazy. Given how wide the torque curve is, just set it so you'll be able to safely drive. Stop driving it like you're the automatic transmission blipping all over the place for every passing breeze. It'll probably be more enjoyable.

(And use your spare time to pay attention that there's no clutch slippage :angel:)
 

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Not to seemingly change the subject but since this thread was about the clutch recall, I'm here to say I have apparently gone full circle. I had a leak in the line between the brake reservoir and the clutch control cylinder. (The first recall was supposedly done, too!) After four trips to my dealer, they replaced the line and now it doesn't leak. They said they bled it; but it now acts totally different, with the first half of pedal travel doing absolutely nothing and clutch release happening just slightly before the pedal hits the floor. Now I think I have a poor bleed that I didn't have before and I am worried that now I just may eventually have a clutch problem brewing. Thoughts? Please, please don't make me go back to my dealer ever again....
Hi bwright1818,
We’re very sorry to hear this. Please follow up with us via DM at your earliest convenience so we can have this looked into further for you.

Rob
Jeep Cares
 

DocTwinkie

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Doc... Duh.
What ever happened to the recall? Notified in January and it still says parts not available to complete.

So,,,, they doing this or what?
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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What ever happened to the recall? Notified in January and it still says parts not available to complete.

So,,,, they doing this or what?
Last update from Jeep Cares said June or July.
 

JeepinPete

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Mine started to act up, not quite releasing all the way. I have bled it myself, it helped, but a trip to dealer is in the future. For anyone that want to try it themselves, forget the Mitivac, or the pump the pedal method. That isn't going to do anything.

Jeep designed the hose connection and the bleed valve to enter the slave cylinder at the same point. If you try the old fashion methods, the fluid from the master cylinder will just bypass the slave cylinder.

What I did was push the clutch pedal in by hand and placed a board between the seat and pedal to keep it there. Then climb under an open the bleed valve. BTW, the bleed valve is a toolless design, just turn it by hand. Keep a rag over it because the fluid will come out with some gusto. Then close the valve and climb out from under the Jeep.

When you pull the board, the clutch pedal will not come up off the floor by itself. Just pull it up. Then repeat the process.

One other thing to note is the slave is sloped the wrong way. Air will not move to the bleeder valve naturally. I put the rear up on ramps to make sure the back end of the slave was higher than the front.

Pete
 

mgroeger

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Mine started to act up, not quite releasing all the way. I have bled it myself, it helped, but a trip to dealer is in the future. For anyone that want to try it themselves, forget the Mitivac, or the pump the pedal method. That isn't going to do anything.

Jeep designed the hose connection and the bleed valve to enter the slave cylinder at the same point. If you try the old fashion methods, the fluid from the master cylinder will just bypass the slave cylinder.

What I did was push the clutch pedal in by hand and placed a board between the seat and pedal to keep it there. Then climb under an open the bleed valve. BTW, the bleed valve is a toolless design, just turn it by hand. Keep a rag over it because the fluid will come out with some gusto. Then close the valve and climb out from under the Jeep.

When you pull the board, the clutch pedal will not come up off the floor by itself. Just pull it up. Then repeat the process.

One other thing to note is the slave is sloped the wrong way. Air will not move to the bleeder valve naturally. I put the rear up on ramps to make sure the back end of the slave was higher than the front.

Pete
Wow thanks for these details man, this is great info. 11 posts and you've managed to put more info out there than people with 1000s lol.
 

DanW

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What ever happened to the recall? Notified in January and it still says parts not available to complete.

So,,,, they doing this or what?
Y07 comes out at the end of June. What year is yours? (I can't see your profile on my phone.)
 

Toycrusher

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Mine started to act up, not quite releasing all the way. I have bled it myself, it helped, but a trip to dealer is in the future. For anyone that want to try it themselves, forget the Mitivac, or the pump the pedal method. That isn't going to do anything.

Jeep designed the hose connection and the bleed valve to enter the slave cylinder at the same point. If you try the old fashion methods, the fluid from the master cylinder will just bypass the slave cylinder.

What I did was push the clutch pedal in by hand and placed a board between the seat and pedal to keep it there. Then climb under an open the bleed valve. BTW, the bleed valve is a toolless design, just turn it by hand. Keep a rag over it because the fluid will come out with some gusto. Then close the valve and climb out from under the Jeep.

When you pull the board, the clutch pedal will not come up off the floor by itself. Just pull it up. Then repeat the process.

One other thing to note is the slave is sloped the wrong way. Air will not move to the bleeder valve naturally. I put the rear up on ramps to make sure the back end of the slave was higher than the front.

Pete
I've had to do it multiple times. You are right about it being a messed up design. Most efficient way I've found is removing the slave from the trans, tipping it downward, and then using my Mityvac with the clear hose looped upward to be able to view the air bubbles coming out.
 

nomographer

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Done yesterday on my 2021. I drove a mix of city, suburb, and highway and had no issues with acceleration, power, etcetera. Happy clutch. However...

Boy does this take forever. :lipssealed: My first time with my five month old (Jeep) at the dealer, had the oil changed to flush out the break-in debris, the Y01, and the Y09. 2.3hr. Now I know that firmware updates to embedded devices aren't just simple three minute phone downloads, but based on the announcement of "about 30min" I was expecting more like an hour total. Oh. Whell.

Second and more importantly, the flash will wipe out the throttle pedal sensor info. After readjusting seats and starting it, the first thing I checked was the throttle response. Naup: Feather on the throttle and it instantly banged up to 2k and had hit 5k in the next five seconds. I shut it off, trusted my memory, dropped it into run mode, and ran the pedal down and up twice (in 15sec). Engine start and with feathering I was able to hold 1.5k, 2.0k,... well enough to drive off anyway.

(Maybe the computer is supposed to learn that data, but it never did in the first three days I owned it.)

I suspect the recall instructions don't include the pedal calibration. Otherwise,

Happy clutch, happy pedal (and happy brakes). :involve:
 

RiotOfTheStars

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New member here. I’ve just had this clutch failure 2 days ago on my 2018 JLU Sport with 15k miles. I was driving on the freeway to a trail in Arizona and the rpms started to blip. I started to loose power when trying to accelerate and then I started to smell that burnt clutch smell as white smoke came from underneath my Jeep. I immediately pulled over and noticed my clutch pedal was about halfway down and didn’t return to its normal position. After that i crawled under my Jeep to find black chared residue between my tranny and engine. I pulled the rubber plugs out and they were coated in black residue. I had to rent a uhaul truck and trailer to tow it back home. Waiting on the dealership “specialized” techs to look it over. Definitely seemed like more than just the clutch going out.
 

Toycrusher

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New member here. I’ve just had this clutch failure 2 days ago on my 2018 JLU Sport with 15k miles. I was driving on the freeway to a trail in Arizona and the rpms started to blip. I started to loose power when trying to accelerate and then I started to smell that burnt clutch smell as white smoke came from underneath my Jeep. I immediately pulled over and noticed my clutch pedal was about halfway down and didn’t return to its normal position. After that i crawled under my Jeep to find black chared residue between my tranny and engine. I pulled the rubber plugs out and they were coated in black residue. I had to rent a uhaul truck and trailer to tow it back home. Waiting on the dealership “specialized” techs to look it over. Definitely seemed like more than just the clutch going out.
Sorry to hear that. However, you illustrate nicely a real world situation. There's no way you could ignore that up to the point that the pressure plate failed. You lost momentum and had a horrible smell, very noticeable symptoms.
 
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