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Clayton Off Road: JL Overland Plus Lift Kits

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Clayton Off Road

Clayton Off Road

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@Clayton Off Road , are there any plans to develop a shorter spring? I only want to run 35's, to avoid going down the rabbit hole of mods that 37's bring. I'd also like to keep cg as low as possible. The 2.5" lifts easily clear 37's. I know 37's are the new 33's, but the millions of us running 35's have few options. Ideally I'd like something with:

2" springs unloaded, settling to 1.5" loaded
Front shocks short enough to prevent any driveshaft damage.
Factory rake or at least some rake.

I really like your arms and Giro bushings, and need some weight carrying capacity that OE springs don't provide. 37's make gearing ($1000) and tailgate reinforcement ($500) mandatory for me. (I drive at high altitudes). And the tires are $500 more a set. The $500 pain for a driveshaft just isn't worth the flex gain for me. I'd much rather spend all that money on a Clayton suspension that I use every time I drive anywhere. C'mon, you can do it!


(This picture shows the same Jeep on 35's with no lift, and 35's with your 2.5" Overland Plus lift.)
1606850050574.png
We're always willing to look into potential new products such as this! Currently our long arm systems for the JL and JT are in development, but maybe if this is something that there's a lot of demand for we can work with our spring manufacturer to figure something out, but most likely it would be after all of these covid delays are done and over with :)
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Jeep&dogs

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We're always willing to look into potential new products such as this! Currently our long arm systems for the JL and JT are in development, but maybe if this is something that there's a lot of demand for we can work with our spring manufacturer to figure something out, but most likely it would be after all of these covid delays are done and over with :)
There are a LOT of us that want to run 35’s on Rubicon’s and 2+“ of lift makes it look like you skipped leg day. On a sport it’s fine
 
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Clayton Off Road

Clayton Off Road

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There are a LOT of us that want to run 35’s on Rubicon’s and 2+“ of lift makes it look like you skipped leg day. On a sport it’s fine
We're going to look into this as an option for the new year!
 

Jeep&dogs

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We're going to look into this as an option for the new year!
If you need a test Jeep I would be very willing to pull the Dynatrac springs I have on the Jeep to test out a new option! 😎 Having a front spring that will hold its height with a winch would be a huge plus! I had to add a 1” spacer in the front with the Dynatrac springs with a Warn evo 10 synthetic, and it still probably needs 1/2 more to sit level.
 

jkasmann

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There are a LOT of us that want to run 35’s on Rubicon’s and 2+“ of lift makes it look like you skipped leg day. On a sport it’s fine
Same here, 35s on rubicon (st1 spacer currently) but prefer a complete kit that can handle some weight, not many options <2.5” currently.
 

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Clayton Off Road

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If you need a test Jeep I would be very willing to pull the Dynatrac springs I have on the Jeep to test out a new option! 😎 Having a front spring that will hold its height with a winch would be a huge plus! I had to add a 1” spacer in the front with the Dynatrac springs with a Warn evo 10 synthetic, and it still probably needs 1/2 more to sit level.
We'll hopefully have some more info soon!
 

LTLWLLY

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Which kit would you suggest for a 2.5” lift for a 21 Willys JLU? This will pretty much be a pavement princess for at least the next 3 years (JK is our off roader) and will probably only get 33’s put on. I don’t want to lose the nice factory ride.
 

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Which kit would you suggest for a 2.5” lift for a 21 Willys JLU? This will pretty much be a pavement princess for at least the next 3 years (JK is our off roader) and will probably only get 33’s put on. I don’t want to lose the nice factory ride.
I would go with their Ride Right kit since it still addresses trackbars to keep the axles in line and front upper control arms to correct caster. I ran this Clayton kit for a year before adding the other 6 control arms and it drove great and performed well off road too!
 

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Ross

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I would go with their Ride Right kit since it still addresses trackbars to keep the axles in line and front upper control arms to correct caster. I ran this Clayton kit for a year before adding the other 6 control arms and it drove great and performed well off road too!
@OversandJL , can you share what differences you noticed when you added the extra 6 control arms? I'm thinking about either the Ride Right option or the full kit.

Thanks
 

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@OversandJL , can you share what differences you noticed when you added the extra 6 control arms? I'm thinking about either the Ride Right option or the full kit.

Thanks
I was able to correctly center the axles in the wheel well. Since I am running 38s on beadlocks it helps them from rubbing the front/rear of the fender Liners when at full flex. I also achieved more flex since the Giiro Joints flex significantly more that the stock arms. If you off road a lot it really helps dial it in.
 
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Ross

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@Paul19JLR , @jkasmann , and @Jeep&dogs , since @Clayton Off Road seems to be thinking about our request, I thought maybe we could elaborate a little more about what we're looking for. Can you all chime in?

CoG/ Lift height I'm trying to keep center of gravity as low as possible, since I'll either have a RTT or a pop up camper on top a lot. Although I started out saying 2", I don't know what the right number is. What I really want is the lowest height possible that will clear 315's/35's and carry more weight.

Do you agree, or have other thoughts?

Weight On my Jeep JLUR, I have OE steel bumpers (light for steel), a winch (+100lbs with mounting plate) Roam sliders (est +60lbs vs OE). Planning on a rack/RTT or pop up. (+200lbs) Empty fridge (+50 lbs) No extra skids planned. And then me (+180lbs) So in summer daily driver mode, I'm at about (+580 lbs) over stock empty weight.

In off road mode add Dog (+80lbs), 5 gal water(+50lbs) Food (+25lbs), Recovery gear (+30lbs), Tred Pros (+20lbs), Compressor (+15lbs), Cooking gear (+15lbs), Camp chairs/table (+10 lbs) Solar panels (+10), Tools (+10lbs). So that adds about (+265lbs). Sometimes a son (+200lbs) or daughter (+130lbs). So +800lbs to +1000lbs over empty weight.

Are you all running at similar weights?

Driveshaft Ideal for me would be to keep the stock driveshaft, still get more articulation than stock, and spec the front shocks to protect the driveshaft so I know I won't have to buy another one. I don't need absolute max articulation, and I'd rather spend $500 in other places. Maybe it's not possible to get more articulation than stock without a better driveshaft. Perhaps the kit could specify two different front shock options, one to protect the driveshaft, and one to provide max articulation.

What's your preference on the driveshaft?

I just ordered my 315's. With the extra weight I carry, I'm trying to lose as little of the effortless power that the 2.0 has as possible. I'll probably put on 20k next year, so on road manners are important. Hopefully get in 1000 miles or so off road.

Thanks for your thoughts
 

jkasmann

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I am happy with the height of 315s + the ST1 (2" front 1.5" rear). True 2" sounds about right. Just nervous about the 2.5" lifts that really net 3-3.5". I'd be happy w/ flex that doesn't require driveshaft replacement.

I have LOD steel front/rear and sliders, synthetic winch, and diff/LCA skids. Call it 400lbs exterior? Then me and my wife and the dog. A few extra items off road but we don't carry a lot of extra weight.

Mostly looking for improved drivability on and off road, less body/head roll, that sort of thing.
 

OversandJL

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@Paul19JLR , @jkasmann , and @Jeep&dogs , since @Clayton Off Road seems to be thinking about our request, I thought maybe we could elaborate a little more about what we're looking for. Can you all chime in?

CoG/ Lift height I'm trying to keep center of gravity as low as possible, since I'll either have a RTT or a pop up camper on top a lot. Although I started out saying 2", I don't know what the right number is. What I really want is the lowest height possible that will clear 315's/35's and carry more weight.

Do you agree, or have other thoughts?

Weight On my Jeep JLUR, I have OE steel bumpers (light for steel), a winch (+100lbs with mounting plate) Roam sliders (est +60lbs vs OE). Planning on a rack/RTT or pop up. (+200lbs) Empty fridge (+50 lbs) No extra skids planned. And then me (+180lbs) So in summer daily driver mode, I'm at about (+580 lbs) over stock empty weight.

In off road mode add Dog (+80lbs), 5 gal water(+50lbs) Food (+25lbs), Recovery gear (+30lbs), Tred Pros (+20lbs), Compressor (+15lbs), Cooking gear (+15lbs), Camp chairs/table (+10 lbs) Solar panels (+10), Tools (+10lbs). So that adds about (+265lbs). Sometimes a son (+200lbs) or daughter (+130lbs). So +800lbs to +1000lbs over empty weight.

Are you all running at similar weights?

Driveshaft Ideal for me would be to keep the stock driveshaft, still get more articulation than stock, and spec the front shocks to protect the driveshaft so I know I won't have to buy another one. I don't need absolute max articulation, and I'd rather spend $500 in other places. Maybe it's not possible to get more articulation than stock without a better driveshaft. Perhaps the kit could specify two different front shock options, one to protect the driveshaft, and one to provide max articulation.

What's your preference on the driveshaft?

I just ordered my 315's. With the extra weight I carry, I'm trying to lose as little of the effortless power that the 2.0 has as possible. I'll probably put on 20k next year, so on road manners are important. Hopefully get in 1000 miles or so off road.

Thanks for your thoughts
You guys may want to look at their 2.5 Overland Plus
I am happy with the height of 315s + the ST1 (2" front 1.5" rear). True 2" sounds about right. Just nervous about the 2.5" lifts that really net 3-3.5". I'd be happy w/ flex that doesn't require driveshaft replacement.

I have LOD steel front/rear and sliders, synthetic winch, and diff/LCA skids. Call it 400lbs exterior? Then me and my wife and the dog. A few extra items off road but we don't carry a lot of extra weight.

Mostly looking for improved drivability on and off road, less body/head roll, that sort of thing.
The shocks extended travel is what will determine the need for a front driveshaft. I have the 2.5 Overland Plus with 38s using Fox shocks and it Flexes nice without the need for a new driveshaft.
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