Clayton Off Road: JL Overland Plus Lift Kits

[Ross]

You guys may want to look at their 2.5 Overland Plus

The shocks extended travel is what will determine the need for a front driveshaft. I have the 2.5 Overland Plus with 38s using Fox shocks and it Flexes nice without the need for a new driveshaft.

We're trying to get Clayton to do a shorter lift for people with 35's. The 2.5" looks/fits great for Jeeps with 37's/38's, but it's tall for 35's. Good to know you haven't felt a need for new driveshaft. I think Clayton recommends a new one, but they're probably being cautious. I had driveshaft issues with my Tacoma, caused by a higher than average lift in back, and I don't want to go down that expensive road again if possible.

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[Jeep&dogs]

My main reason is I absolutely 100% don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of going bigger than a 35” tire. 2” max and get rid of the factory rake. Anything over 2” starts to look funny with a 35 on a Rubicon in my opinion. A 35 lets me get anywhere I want to go with this Jeep.

I have a winch and the current springs from Dynatrac I have to run a 1” spacer in the front and it would need another 1/2” to get rid of the rake. Also address the right side lean from the gas tank. I shouldn’t need a 1/2 spacer front and rear to get the Jeep to sit level side to side.

Lastly I would like to tow a small 6x12 in closed trailer. It has about 175/200;lbs of tough weight, with the current springs I am running it sags the rear 1 1/2- 2”.

I do have sliders and may add skids but I really don’t travel very heavy.

 

[xaugievike]

How 'bout that 2" @Clayton Off Road ? I've got a pocket that's starting to smolder a bit.

 

[UtahRubi]

I'm in for the true 2" heavy spring. I don't want to go bigger than 35's and would like a spring that will support some weight.

 

[ElvisJL]

We're trying to get Clayton to do a shorter lift for people with 35's. The 2.5" looks/fits great for Jeeps with 37's/38's, but it's tall for 35's. Good to know you haven't felt a need for new driveshaft. I think Clayton recommends a new one, but they're probably being cautious. I had driveshaft issues with my Tacoma, caused by a higher than average lift in back, and I don't want to go down that expensive road again if possible.

I can tell you with more than enough confidence, you don't need a new driveshaft with their 2.5" kit. I've had mine installed for the past 12K miles, wheeled in 5 states, pushing it hard and I've yet to have any issues with the driveshaft. Even the boot looks new except for the dirt on it.

I gained 3.5" out of my 2.5" kit on my Sport S with plastic bumpers. Since adding my spare tire carrier, 35" spare, and rock sliders, it's settling in and it'll continue to do so as I add aftermarket bumpers.

If you're worried about a 2.5" kit being too tall for 35's, I'd suggest rethinking the type of kit you go with. A majority of your overland kits are designed to carry the extra weight of overlanding equipment and will sit higher if you're not loaded down, something to keep in mind.

 

[Jeep&dogs]

I can tell you with more than enough confidence, you don't need a new driveshaft with their 2.5" kit. I've had mine installed for the past 12K miles, wheeled in 5 states, pushing it hard and I've yet to have any issues with the driveshaft. Even the boot looks new except for the dirt on it.

I gained 3.5" out of my 2.5" kit on my Sport S with plastic bumpers. Since adding my spare tire carrier, 35" spare, and rock sliders, it's settling in and it'll continue to do so as I add aftermarket bumpers.

If you're worried about a 2.5" kit being too tall for 35's, I'd suggest rethinking the type of kit you go with. A majority of your overland kits are designed to carry the extra weight of overlanding equipment and will sit higher if you're not loaded down, something to keep in mind.

2.5” is perfect for a sport, a rubicon however the fenders are a high line fender, they are 2” higher than a shoot from the factory. Appearance wise you would need to add 2” to your lift to have the same tire to wheel clearance as a factory rubicon.

 

[Sydwaiz]

I'd be down for a 2" Rubicon diesel kit if the only upgrade to the next higher kit would be springs if I decide to later. I just installed 35s and don't see the need for 37s anytime soon. Will be adding a winch and RSE steps this weekend and those RSE steps are a bit heavy.

 

[Paul19JLR]

My stock springs sag about 2" when loaded up. I need something firmer to handle the weight I carry. Trailer tongue weight is about 170. Fridge and gear inside and up top add another maybe 300.

 

[maddscot]

I can tell you with more than enough confidence, you don't need a new driveshaft with their 2.5" kit. I've had mine installed for the past 12K miles, wheeled in 5 states, pushing it hard and I've yet to have any issues with the driveshaft. Even the boot looks new except for the dirt on it.

I gained 3.5" out of my 2.5" kit on my Sport S with plastic bumpers. Since adding my spare tire carrier, 35" spare, and rock sliders, it's settling in and it'll continue to do so as I add aftermarket bumpers.

If you're worried about a 2.5" kit being too tall for 35's, I'd suggest rethinking the type of kit you go with. A majority of your overland kits are designed to carry the extra weight of overlanding equipment and will sit higher if you're not loaded down, something to keep in mind.

Assume those are 35"?

 

[ElvisJL]

Assume those are 35"?

Yes sir they are.

 

[Village Idiot]

Anyone think I will be able to run AEV JL Borah wheels with this 2.5" lift? I know Clayton's website recommends 4.75 backspacing but I think the Borahs are 5+ something (+25 offset). I want to try to keep the tires tucked as much as possible while running 35s.

Should be ok if you have a rubicon. Just like the arm green one in this thread earlier Was running 37s without wheel spacers on stock rubicon wheels with similar backspacing.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

I can tell you with more than enough confidence, you don't need a new driveshaft with their 2.5" kit. I've had mine installed for the past 12K miles, wheeled in 5 states, pushing it hard and I've yet to have any issues with the driveshaft. Even the boot looks new except for the dirt on it.

I gained 3.5" out of my 2.5" kit on my Sport S with plastic bumpers. Since adding my spare tire carrier, 35" spare, and rock sliders, it's settling in and it'll continue to do so as I add aftermarket bumpers.

If you're worried about a 2.5" kit being too tall for 35's, I'd suggest rethinking the type of kit you go with. A majority of your overland kits are designed to carry the extra weight of overlanding equipment and will sit higher if you're not loaded down, something to keep in mind.

Jeep looks great! The front driveshaft upgrade is definitely more of a necessity with our 3.5" kit

 

[KB34]

@Clayton Off Road Can I run the overland+ 2.5" kit with stock Rubicon wheels with 35s? Or do I need to get new wheels to fit 35s?

 

[Clayton Off Road]

@Clayton Off Road Can I run the overland+ 2.5" kit with stock Rubicon wheels with 35s? Or do I need to get new wheels to fit 35s?

Pretty much anytime you introduce larger tires to the vehicle you're going to need a new set of wheels with more backspacing or use a wheel spacer since the width of the larger tire usually causes some rubbing at full turn. If you don't care about rubbing you can always get away with the factory wheels, but for best results we recommended either going with a new wheel with backspacing somewhere between 4.5 and 4.75 or a small wheel spacer.

 

[Paul19JLR]

@Clayton Off Road Can I run the overland+ 2.5" kit with stock Rubicon wheels with 35s? Or do I need to get new wheels to fit 35s?

You can run 35's on a Rubicon with stock wheels. I am with no lift........yet.

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