Class II Hitch Looks Like a Class III to Me

[ToolMan514]

Do you want to add a kick to the pants? In Europe (Germany specifically) the JLU Sahara and Rubicon are both rated to tow 2,495 kg (5,500 pounds) with a brake controller. Europe does not follow the same "class" system, and I think the class II limit is just because it doesn't quite meet the 6,000 pound max rating of a class III. All I know is that even with 2,500 pounds, you're going to want a weight-distribution system to keep it level!

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[RockyMtnHigh]

The main reason that the JL has a towing capacity of 3,500 lbs, is not because it can't pull it. But rather, that It cannot stop it. My 2000 Wrangler TJ had a 2000 lb towing capacity, but I frequently used it to pull around a 26 foot sailboat (5000 lbs) in its dry dock on a trailer. The Jeep has more than enough torque to move whatever you wish. But at speed, the momentum of an overloaded trailer will overcome the stopping power of the brakes, and push the Jeep around.

Tongue weight is arguably far more important; and adjustable. However, you cannot improve the tongue weight of a given trailer/vehicle setup simply by adding a beefier hitch. Tongue weight is a product of a lot of different components.
https://www.doubledtrailers.com/how-to-calculate-horse-trailer-tongue-weight/

Too little tongue weight and the trailer can sway. Too much and it causes you to lose steering.
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/tongue-weight.htm

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

Effectively, the only thing that changes in this video is tongue weight.

 

[tyresmoker]

Do you want to add a kick to the pants? In Europe (Germany specifically) the JLU Sahara and Rubicon are both rated to tow 2,495 kg (5,500 pounds) with a brake controller. Europe does not follow the same "class" system, and I think the class II limit is just because it doesn't quite meet the 6,000 pound max rating of a class III. All I know is that even with 2,500 pounds, you're going to want a weight-distribution system to keep it level!

Germany has VERY strict (enforced) speed limits associated with trailer towing on the A's. It is not uncommon to have recreational trailers limited to 80-100kph.

 

[InvertedLogic]

I'm going to be about 700 pounds under max tow capacity and with some slight mods to where things are located on the camper (i.e. the tongue area) I'm going to be at about 325 on the tongue weight.

This is below the rated capacity, I am not sure what you are worried about. The Mopar hitch may not look as beefy, but you have no idea what kind of testing they performed on it to confidently state it'll hold to 350/3500 indefinitely. If they did not trust it, it would not be rated as such. It would be a litigation nightmare. Unless you know the material and processing that Mopar uses vs Curt and have done a stress analysis, you cannot just look at it and decide that one is better than the other.

 

[digitalbliss]

My issue is that the factory hitch is not as well made as the Curt hitch. The Mopar hitch is thinner and lighter weight. The trailer is 2600 dry and I travel alone and super light. The tongue weight is at 390, but the spare tire is mounted on the tongue as well as a 20# propane tank (weighs 37 pounds full). I can easily mount that on the back of the trailer.

The trailer has electric brakes.

Still in research mode, so everyone's comments are priceless in helping make the best decisions.

I would bet that the tongue weight above is also calculated "dry". Meaning that the spare and propane weights are not taken into consideration. Of course the only way to really know would be to weigh it on a certified scale.

Good luck to you, but like @WXman and others have said, I think you are worrying about the wrong thing.

 

[GunnersJL]

I agree with others, no need to change the hitch, but with this caveat. It depends entirely on you and how much weight you add to the dry weight of the camper. Your hitch is not frame mounted, it is mounted to a crossbar, and that is the weak link. Changing to an aftermarket hitch will not change that! There is no value in switching hitches. Changing to an aftermarket bumper that is frame mounted, and has an integral hitch (not reusing the factory hitch in the same mounts) will change the strength of the hitch, but keep in mind that won't change your tow rating. It's more complicated than that. For your setup switching bumpers is overkill. With a little caution you should be fine as is.

You stated the camper dealer said they won't sell you the camper with that hitch? Potentially exceeding the bumpers tongue weight rating may be why. First, what is the gross allowable weight on the camper? I would guess maybe 3500 lbs? They may worry you will load the camper to capacity, which will then exceed the tongue weight rating of the JLU.

Typically tongue weight needs to be 10% to 15% of loaded camper weight. Personally the least I will run is 12%. If you take a 2600 lb dry weight camper and add 800 lbs in batteries, LP, cargo and water you are up to 3400 lbs, and 12% of that is 408 lbs. 15 % is 510 lbs, The hitch is only rated to 350 lbs of tongue weight. Depending on how much weight you add to the camper you could potentially exceed the rated tongue weight capacity, and the dealer is probably worried about liability. Odd that they are that concerned. Most camper dealers would just overlook it.

Reading back through your comments, I noted you said you would be about 700 lbs below towing capacity. That means your total loaded weight would be 2800 lbs? You would only be adding 200 lbs in LP, batteries, clothes, food, on-board water, bicycle maybe? Doable, but won't be very easy.

Consider investing in a Sherline scale for weighing your tongue before hooking up. I weigh mine before every trip and move cargo around as needed to hit my ideal tongue weight. The smaller scale will be fine. https://www.sherline.com/product/sherline-trailer-tongue-weight-scale/

Sounds like you are on top of this and doing your homework, so I suspect you know all this already. You may need to educate the dealer that you are very much aware of the vehicles limitations and are capable of watching your tongue weight. Also, don't mess around and run with light tongue weight! You do not want to come in light for reasons others have already highlighted. This cannot be overstressed! To keep weight down, if necessary do as you already suggested, get creative and move some weight out of the camper and into the Jeep.

I'd suggest capping the loader camper weight around 2900 lbs, if you can actually manage that (I'm not sure I could). Your Jeep will handle that weight easily and you won't exceed tongue weight. You will know it is back there, but it is well within limits. This will not be as easy as it sounds. That's only 300 pounds over dry weight. Propane and battery are almost half of that. 20 gallons of water is another 160 lbs. Doesn't leave much room for other stuff.

You may also want to consider an anti-sway Weight Distribution Hitch. In fact, you need one. You will be surprised just how much 350 lbs pushes down the back end of the Jeep, taking needed weight off the front wheels. A WDH redistributes that and restores balance and helps avoid sway. I use Andersen. There are plenty of others to choose from.

Happy Camping!

 

[roaniecowpony]

As with any engineered product rated to do a specified amount of work, there is margin built in to the design. In the case of repeatedly loaded steel structures like a hitch, that margin is to prevent fatigue failure from repeated loads seen for braking and acceleration at maximum rated loads. The hitch will also be designed to not permanently deform in a panic stop. You can feel safe that the hitch will not fail within the rated load limit.

 

[BWWJL]

Are you ignoring all the posts made regarding the hitch capacity? The stock hitch is fine for up to the rated weight, and will be fine a good amount over, these hitches have a safety margin built in. What trailer are you looking at? If the loaded/wet weight is less than 3500/350, you're fine, and the place you're buying from isn't a place you should be buying from.

As noted multiple times, you're really pushing it if you're towing near or at capacity in these Jeeps. The hitch isn't your problem/weakest link. You're worrying about the wrong things, and you should refocus on the trailer more than the Jeep. If you're well under the capacity as you indicate you are, there's no problem, and you don't need to upgrade anything. Trailer brakes are always a great investment, that might be a good place to start.

^^ this ^^

 

[GunnersJL]

Good point. A 2600 lb dry weight camper will have a GVWR of around 3500 lbs. It will come with trailer brakes. Not a option, trailer brakes will be standard.

 

[AK0311]

Hi, this is my first post on this forum. I'm happy to have found a site dedicated to the new JL. I just bought my JLU Sahara in November.

So, I have the factory tow package and I plan to tow a Tear Drop Camper in the Spring. I know the JLU is rated for up to 3500 tow weight and 350 tongue weight. Here is my dilemma, the window sticker says a Class II hitch. The Mopar parts website says Class II hitch, but the hitch on my Jeep LOOKS like a Class III hitch. Class II hitches normally have just a 1 1/4" receiver opening and a Class III hitch has a 2" opening. Mine has a 2" opening! I've called around, and even still waiting for a return email from Chrysler/Jeep. I know the Jeep is rated at Class II towing capability, but is this or is this not a Class III hitch? If you look on all the aftermarket sites show exactly the same hitch, 2" opening, but listed as a Class III hitch. The trailer weights are on the higher end of the max towing of the Jeep, and I plan to use a weight distribution hitch system, but I want to make sure I have a class III hitch. Easy enough to just switch out for a FOR SURE Class III hitch, but if I don't have too, obviously I don't want to do it. I know a Class II hitch is rated for up to 3500/350, but I'm just not comfortable walking that thin of line if my tongue weight gets a bit close to the 350.

Thanks,
Robyn

The size of the receiver doesn't necessarily reflect the class of the hitch. Yes, "most" class 2 hitches are the small 1 1/4" tube. That said, the larger 2" size has more options for types of hitches you can use. I would guess this is why Jeep used a 2" receiver instead of the smaller size. My Dad had the 1 1/4" on his Mazda and had to use an adapter that took away capacity and stability to tow his little box trailer around.

You should never exceed the capacity listed by the auto maker, even if the vehicle will tow it. Being that it's only 3500 pounds max weight, you shouldn't need a weight distribution hitch. If you load the trailer correctly it won't cause any sag on the Jeep.

 

[robynE]

My main concern now at this point is if this hitch is quality and if it will hold up with the full 3500/350 weight load. I'm sure it must otherwise Jeep would be open to lawsuits. It's just that the after market Curt hitch designed for the JL more heavy duty and seems to have fewer welds BUT it has been determined that the Curt hitch (and others) dont work with the factory installed wiring harness. I even called Curt to alert them and they were not aware of it was not a fit even though the two reviews on their website for the hitch say IT DOESNT FIT! It's fine if you dont have or plan to install the Mopar 4/7 pin wiring harness but it will not work if you do. I wanted to just switch it out for the Curt hitch which has the SAME weight rating but is considered a Class III and seems to be better made. Curt and others will need to come out with a hitch that has that curvature to accommodate the factory wiring harness.

What are opinions on the quality/strength of the factory hitch? It just scares me because it is thinner and has more welds than the Curt hitch.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

My main concern now at this point is if this hitch is quality and if it will hold up with the full 3500/350 weight load. I'm sure it must otherwise Jeep would be open to lawsuits. It's just that the after market Curt hitch designed for the JL more heavy duty and seems to have fewer welds BUT it has been determined that the Curt hitch (and others) dont work with the factory installed wiring harness. I even called Curt to alert them and they were not aware of it was not a fit even though the two reviews on their website for the hitch say IT DOESNT FIT! It's fine if you dont have or plan to install the Mopar 4/7 pin wiring harness but it will not work if you do. I wanted to just switch it out for the Curt hitch which has the SAME weight rating but is considered a Class III and seems to be better made. Curt and others will need to come out with a hitch that has that curvature to accommodate the factory wiring harness.

What are opinions on the quality/strength of the factory hitch? It just scares me because it is thinner and has more welds than the Curt hitch.

The factory Mopar hitch is sufficiently strong enough to tow what you have proposed. While the Curt Hitch may claim to be a class III hitch, it attached to a cross-member on the JL. Class III hitches attach solely to the frame of a vehicle. Either way, the JL is not rated for Class III towing loads.

I would bet that the Mopar hitch has AT LEAST a 1.5 safety factor. Meaning that it could handle 5250/525 weight load before it begins to yield. Your very concerned about the appearance of the hitch, and how beefy it is. Fair enough, if you were to swap to a beefier hitch, all you have done is moved the "weak point" (though its not actually weak) from the hitch to the cross-member. I would rather the hitch break than have it take my cross member with it. (Though that will never happen under your load)

 

[robynE]

The factory Mopar hitch is sufficiently strong enough to tow what you have proposed. While the Curt Hitch may claim to be a class III hitch, it attached to a cross-member on the JL. Class III hitches attach solely to the frame of a vehicle. Either way, the JL is not rated for Class III towing loads.

I would bet that the Mopar hitch has AT LEAST a 1.5 safety factor. Meaning that it could handle 5250/525 weight load before it begins to yield. Your very concerned about the appearance of the hitch, and how beefy it is. Fair enough, if you were to swap to a beefier hitch, all you have done is moved the "weak point" (though its not actually weak) from the hitch to the cross-member. I would rather the hitch break than have it take my cross member with it. (Though that will never happen under your load)

Great reply! Very helpful. Thanks. It's not the appearance I'm concerned about. I was just thinking the beefier curt hitch seemed just a bit more sturdy...not so I can tow over the 3500 limit, but just becaue it "seems" to be more sturdy. I am also hoping thinking there would have to be a safety margin built in as you mention. It's just nice to hear it from others to reaffirm my thoughts.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

Great reply! Very helpful. Thanks. It's not the appearance I'm concerned about. I was just thinking the beefier curt hitch seemed just a bit more sturdy...not so I can tow over the 3500 limit, but just becaue it "seems" to be more sturdy. I am also hoping thinking there would have to be a safety margin built in as you mention. It's just nice to hear it from others to reaffirm my thoughts.

The JLU Sahara has a curb weight of 4300 lbs. Its common practice to use the hitch as a recovery point, meaning that you hook a tow strap to it and pull the JLU with another vehicle out of a ditch or what have you. That's proof right there that the hitch can handle a load of at least 4300 lbs. Its much stronger than you might realize.

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