Chromoly axle shafts for fr

scrape

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Question for you guys doing FAD delete: If you do the FAD delete, can you add traditional manual locking hubs?
Sure, if you can find a spindle that will bolt to the stock knuckle, get custom stub shafts made, find tone rings that will fit and work with JL sensors, get you rotors drilled for a different bolt pattern and bored for a larger hub, and run different wheels on the front. Just easy basic stuff really.





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roaniecowpony

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Sure, if you can find a spindle that will bolt to the stock knuckle, get custom stub shafts made, find tone rings that will fit and work with JL sensors, get you rotors drilled for a different bolt pattern and bored for a larger hub, and run different wheels on the front. Just easy basic stuff really.
So, no bolt-on parts currently available?

I do have access to a full machine shop and I used to own a shop many lifetimes ago. So, given the motivation, I can handle the machining. Pretty sure I wouldn't do it the way you described, but I get the idea.

It's all a bit academic at the moment. I'm not doing much discretionary spending until my investments get well.
 

MarkY3130

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Exactly!!! Unfortunately for me, the surprise (a pretty shitty one) cost me $80 in return shipping costs. It pisses me off even more because I took the time to call the Dana Tech Support line where you get connected with a guy who sounds like he's ready to slit his wrists and is hating his job, and then you are lied to about what comes in the box. :mad:

I had the same thought about the stock inner-inner (Mopar calls it the intermediate) shaft already being Chromoly but I doubt it. This is the stock part...

https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/i...er-jl-gladiator-jt-rubicon-dana-44-68400416AA

Nothing about it being chromoly and the splines appear to be cut/machined instead of rolled. And why would they make that one part stronger than the rest of the shaft(s)? Especially considering that auto manufacturers are notoriously cheap.

I think I'm pretty much done with anything from Dana-Spicer. I've been less than impressed with everything I've received from them. Their online parts descriptions suck (could've saved me $80), no instructions and terrible packaging. They basically take these parts and toss them in a cardboard box with no cushioning and hand 'em to UPS. Every package I've received from them (all axle shafts to this point) has poked/worn through the box. I had to return one rear shaft to the seller because the tone ring was chipped.

I, too, am ordering the RCV front shafts and seals. Let me know how your install goes.
Finally started my install. After putting the kids down tonight I tackled the passenger side. This was my first time working with RCV shafts.

I ran into an issue where I couldn’t remove the FAD skid because of a conflict with my lower control arm skids. So had a couple extra steps there.

I found the RCV tube seal (optional add-on part) somewhat difficult to install into the axle tube. What worked was taking a block of wood and placing it on the backside of the knuckle, forward of the axle, and using that as a fulcrum point for a a pry bar, using the shaft of the pry bar against the tube seal to push it in.

I was surprised how much force it took to seat the shaft into the CV joint. Once it’s in you’ll know it though.

Installing the boot on the CV wasn’t too bad. Zip tie did the trick

Also, more gear oil drained out of the FAD housing than I was prepared for. Made a small mess, but whatever.

Took about two hours. I suspect the the driver side will go much quicker due to fewer parts and a few lessons learned this evening.
 

Rosco1983

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Ok I know this is a old post but I was hoping somebody can tell me I didn't screw up the install. I installed the kit that keeps the fad. I slid in the new outer shaft and it wouldn't slide it. I gave it a little and I mean little tap and it still wouldn't go. I got back under to see the male end on the new outer wouldn't slide into the original intermediate shaft bc it was to small. I pulled out the new shaft and held it next to the new one. You can clearly see the male end on the new shaft is bigger. I could see that I had already screwed up the nylon bushing so I just pulled out the intermediate shaft to look at it. The female end on it is clearly to small to except the male end of the new out dana shaft. So I said screw it and I knocked out what was left of the bushing and tried to see if the male end of the new shaft would now slide into the original intermediate now that the bushing was removed. Sure enough it was a perfect fit. So my question is should I have removed that bushing to make it fit? Because after I did it all went back together perfectly.
 

wibornz

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I have put The Yukon chromoly axle shaft in the back because of this..

1608380504099.png


I will put the RCV axle shafts in the front soon.
 

oceanblue2019

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I'm hoping the long big box under the tree marked "From Santa To Blueberry" are my RCV fronts ;)
 

cocaine_white

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The FAD RCV fronts keep all of the FAD stock parts. If you pull the module, you can put the stock parts back in...a reverse of the installation.

I did RCV front and rear. I thought the rears were precautionary but my LH rear shaft was twisted almost a full spline. No way they would have lasted through EJS this year.

I think spending some money to be sure you have a good wheeling trip before you get the 60's is a great idea. You can recover some of the shaft cost and have some peace of mind on the trail.

This was my shaft after 10 months on 37's.

IMG_9522.jpeg
Whats the part number for the rear rcv's? I found the fronts but didnt see they made rears. Ended up going with yukon for the rear
 

wibornz

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I have put The Yukon chromoly axle shaft in the back because of this..

1608380504099.png


I will put the RCV axle shafts in the front soon.
I have now added the RCV axles shafts up front.
 

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