Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps

[hollowpoint]

I managed to get all 3 mounts out on the drivers side… but going back in, only two went cleanly. The rear mount will start to tighten, I can feel resistance, then pop and it’s loose again.

Guessing I broke the spot welds on the nut… or something is tweaked on the retaining clip.

Anyone know if a shop in the Tomball / Houston area that has experience fixing body mounts? Also, does it make sense to just replace them all with new hardware while it’s up on the lift?

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[unsavory]

Some of mine did that as well, but I was able to get them off by sliding a wrench into the frame end, if I remember correctly. Then an impact wrench was able to tighten them up when putting them back on.

I remember it not being fun.

 

[Gaffer]

This video shows how the front mount is installed and a fix. As far as heating a bolt in a vise to test the temperature transfer from bolt head to tip, you need to isolate the bolt from that giant heat sink.

 

[JeepFiend]

Buying rock hard sliders was on my radar, but the thought of a broken body bolt had me hesitant to pull the trigger. I was brainstorming with a buddy who has these sliders waiting to be installed. So I came up with a new method to remove the body bolts yesterday. Really this is just building on the other methods by adding a torque wrench to keep my strength in check.

The Cookie Monster Method™:
1: Grab a torque wrench and set it at 100 ft lbs
2: Attach a 18mm deep socket
3: Applying upward pressure on the head of the wrench with one hand to keep the wrench level
4: slowly apply level horizontal force using your other hand
5: The secret sauce: If the torque wrench clicks, STOP! This is your warning sign.
6: If it clicks, try reversing the direction and tighten the bolt a half turn, then start again
7: If it clicks again, try applying heat using a torch or induction heater
8: If it clicks again, consider selling your sliders for another brand or having a shop do the install.

My passenger side never even clicked, it was super easy to remove. The driver's side was a different story. However the torque wrench only clicked once as I started the bolt moving. After that it was just slow and steady, taking frequent breaks, reseting and ensuring the wrench was level. I never had to use steps 6, 7, or 8.

Yes, I am that crazy, I removed my front two body bolts as practice.

The Proof

Passenger:

Driver:

You will notice significantly more locktite on the driver's side which corresponds with my level of effort to remove. Also I am wearing a glove as I am about to use a wire brush to remove the locktite before reinstalling.

So I followed that method. Started with the passenger side. It was a bit harrowing as it was hard to turn almost the entire way out. About 80% out, I started hearing a creaking sound, but both bolts came out successfully. Switched over to the drivers side, but this time set the torque wrench to 90 ft/lbs, and the front bolt came out with no issues at all. The rear body bolt however clicked before it ever began to turn. Switch directions and waited for another click. Switched back to loosen and it slowly started to move. All four bolts successfully extracted!

 

[kah.mun.rah]

These bolts can be very tight and make a snap crackle pop sound along the way. If you are going to pull them, take it very slow. 1/2 turn out and then 1/4 turn in if you have to for the whole process.

 

[Cookie Monster]

I recently received my flat step sliders from rock hard. So yesterday I went about installing them. Having previously removed and cleaned out the front two body bolts, the whole install was fairly painless. I was surprised how much wobble the rear four bolts have during removal compared to the fronts.

I was also lazy and didn’t drill out any holes, drilling the front pinch bolt hole as instructed would have been simpler.

I ordered my steps without any metal plate (didn’t like the black or silver traction plate with the large Rock Hard logo) Instead I added some 4” wide grip tape for traction. The result is a clean look.

 

[TJP]

Thanks for the information in this thread.

i was able to loosen 4 and had to remove 2 to grind threads so washer could be moved to accomodate bracket for Rock slide engineering. Both were middle bolts that I removed

used torque wrench to loosen aet at 80 lbs as additional safeguard ifbolt got bound.

for front two I used heatgun for 3 mins on high.

I have more work to do, but Im glad I got past this today.

 

[KHR Racing]

A can of Tuna…………..

 

[GreenWilly]

I will add another broken bolt to the list. Crazy thing is I read all the troubles and got all the bolts out with the techniques described. Cleaned all the threads and put everything back together. Torqued all the bolts to 80ft/lbs and counted myself lucky. And a week later the right front developed a squeak. Found the front bolt needed to be re-torqued. Easy enough, put the torque wrench on and that's when she snapped. Happy new year to me. Looks like the jeep is going under the knife. Wish me luck. Crazy that these bolts all break at the same spot on the threads.

 

[Megawatt]

I will add another broken bolt to the list…. Crazy that these bolts all break at the same spot on the threads.

So you removed the OEM bolts and reinstalled them? Why didn’t you use the new set of bolts that came with the sliders?

 

[Antonio]

I will add another broken bolt to the list. Crazy thing is I read all the troubles and got all the bolts out with the techniques described. Cleaned all the threads and put everything back together. Torqued all the bolts to 80ft/lbs and counted myself lucky. And a week later the right front developed a squeak. Found the front bolt needed to be re-torqued. Easy enough, put the torque wrench on and that's when she snapped. Happy new year to me. Looks like the jeep is going under the knife. Wish me luck. Crazy that these bolts all break at the same spot on the threads.

Honestly this is the reason why I went from ace rock sliders to the mopar step assist HD rock rails, as much as I read suggestions etc no shop near by was willing to take the job and I wasn’t comfortable trying it as I know my luck well enough not to consider taking a shot, but the only advice I can offer is if you pull the oem bolts off don’t reuse them get yourself a new set! Best of luck getting this taken care of

 

[GreenWilly]

Motobilt doesn't provide or instruct you to use new body mount bolts. They are not a stretch bolt and should be able to be reused. I haven't seen any sliders that do come with that hardware.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Motobilt doesn't provide or instruct you to use new body mount bolts. They are not a stretch bolt and should be able to be reused. I haven't seen any sliders that do come with that hardware.

It has been mentioned before, it is prudent to use new body mount bolts. I know I used new when my Ace Sliders went on a few years ago.

Bought new bidy bolts from Mopar.

 

[blnewt]

Motobilt doesn't provide or instruct you to use new body mount bolts. They are not a stretch bolt and should be able to be reused. I haven't seen any sliders that do come with that hardware.

I wouldn't reuse those bolts, but they really should include new fasteners, or at the very least instruct you to purchase new fasteners. These bolts seem to have a thread locking compound apllied from all I've read and would be a good idea to just go new rather than having to worry about over stressed fasteners. As many horror stories that have been posted about these very bolts it's just not worth the risk to reuse them IMO.

 

[GreenWilly]

I definitely considered the new bolts and should have listened to the little voice in my head. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Cheers

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