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Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps

DocTwinkie

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Doc... Duh.
I've been reading a lot about this over the past day after I was thinking about buying some rock sliders. A few things came to mind...

- Anybody know why Jeep used red loctite on these front body bolts?
- Could they had done it to not mess with the adaptive cruise control calibration?
- What does the factory service manual say about removing them? At some point in time, those bushings need to be replaced.
- It seems like lots of heat is the way to go for liquidifying the loctite.
- If you do have to cut an access hole, does anybody have pictures of the inside floorboard where you did it? The only one I saw was a youtube video going through the wheelwell.

It's odd that so many people install sliders and this is a common method to do it where Jeep made it so difficult.
Can’t speak to why they used red or the adaptive. Why do you need to cut into the floor board?
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nU7OuxIx

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Why do you need to cut into the floor board?
If you break a bolt, what are your options? Try to jack the one side up enough to remove the bushings and use an extractor, try to back it out with some vise-grips, and if all else fails, open up the floorboard and remove the rest of the bolt that way.

I'm wondering why they decided to use it in the first place. And then if a large percentage of people have successfully removed the bolt without breaking it and we're just hearing from the ones that had issues.

I've broken plenty of bolts in my lifetime and know the feeling. I would hate to do this on a new vehicle and try to figure it out.
 

DocTwinkie

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Doc... Duh.
If you break a bolt, what are your options? Try to jack the one side up enough to remove the bushings and use an extractor, try to back it out with some vise-grips, and if all else fails, open up the floorboard and remove the rest of the bolt that way.

I'm wondering why they decided to use it in the first place. And then if a large percentage of people have successfully removed the bolt without breaking it and we're just hearing from the ones that had issues.

I've broken plenty of bolts in my lifetime and know the feeling. I would hate to do this on a new vehicle and try to figure it out.
I got ya now. Yeah. It’s nerve wracking for sure. I’ve never used a torch so that was a no for me. Induction worked great but it is an expensive tool.

recently I’ve been using more lock washers and anti-seize (nord lock). My understanding is better torque retention than loctite. But who knows why they used it.
 

nU7OuxIx

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I got ya now. Yeah. It’s nerve wracking for sure. I’ve never used a torch so that was a no for me. Induction worked great but it is an expensive tool.

recently I’ve been using more lock washers and anti-seize (nord lock). My understanding is better torque retention than loctite. But who knows why they used it.
I thought about picking up a cheap inductive heater. On amazon, the cheap one is about $180. I'm sure you get what you pay for though.

I'm following another thread in the 'potting your locker position sensor'. To my surprise, Jeep is using red loctite on the differential bolts too. It makes me wonder where else they used it.

The other recommendation in that thread is to get a feel for if loctite was used or not when removing the bolts. That's probably the best advice... Living in the midwest though, you don't know if the bolt is seized up because of rust or loctite.

Also use caution when using anti-seize. I've used the permatex antiseize compound on a number of bolts and have had them strip when using a torque wrench, even when reducing torque by 30%. I've even checked my torque wrench to make sure it was reading correctly. I think what was happening is that when tightening, the bolt was producing a lot of heat, which made the antiseize act more like a grease and allowed me to overtorque. If I were to do it again, I would snug it, wait a bit, then torque it down again. Just something to keep in mind.
 

DocTwinkie

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Doc... Duh.
I got ya now. Yeah. It’s nerve wracking for sure. I’ve never used a torch so that was a no for me. Induction worked great but it is an expensive tool.
I thought about picking up a cheap inductive heater. On amazon, the cheap one is about $180. I'm sure you get what you pay for though.

I'm following another thread in the 'potting your locker position sensor'. To my surprise, Jeep is using red loctite on the differential bolts too. It makes me wonder where else they used it.

The other recommendation in that thread is to get a feel for if loctite was used or not when removing the bolts. That's probably the best advice... Living in the midwest though, you don't know if the bolt is seized up because of rust or loctite.

Also use caution when using anti-seize. I've used the permatex antiseize compound on a number of bolts and have had them strip when using a torque wrench, even when reducing torque by 30%. I've even checked my torque wrench to make sure it was reading correctly. I think what was happening is that when tightening, the bolt was producing a lot of heat, which made the antiseize act more like a grease and allowed me to overtorque. If I were to do it again, I would snug it, wait a bit, then torque it down again. Just something to keep in mind.
Good advice. I have a few steel bolts in aluminum parts so those I try to be diligent about the antiseize.

not sure where you live but there might be a jeeper with an induction heater to borrow.

also I didn’t do it this way but might be a good safety measure. Once you hear the bolt use your torque wrench to loosen it. Maybe set it to 90 or 100 (specs for those bolts are 80). If you’re clicking maybe heat more and try again.

good luck.
 

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After reading this thread I was extremely nervous about installing my new rock sliders. This past weekend I removed all 6 body bolts and didn't have a single issue... I thought I would share my methods with the hive mind after being so concerned over what seemed to be nothing.

Lots of heat - This point can not be stressed enough, I used a hand held MAP gas bottle (similar to propane, just burns hotter) and didn't have any melting issues with the body mounts. After doing a few bolts I eventually noticed that I would smell Loctite melting in the air (direct flame for 3-4 minutes), this is when I would switch to the impact on a slow speed and zip the bolt out in one smooth continuous motion.

I think people are being mislead with the manual removal of these bolts without the use of heat. In my opinion this is allowing the Loctite to reset which makes the next turn as hard as the first adding extra shear stress on the bolt. I also think the manual method of removal has a higher probability of not applying torque on the bolts axis, again increasing the risk of the bolt breaking.
 

Nachostheclown

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Add me to the list. Front passenger side snapped after maybe a 3/4 turn. Worst part about it, it’s my friends Jeep. Feel terrible going to try and drill it out. It’s a 2020 Rubi 4 door.

Jeep Wrangler JL Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps EBAB26CA-037F-4134-A882-65A7A8C93C96
 

DocTwinkie

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Doc... Duh.
Add me to the list. Front passenger side snapped after maybe a 3/4 turn. Worst part about it, it’s my friends Jeep. Feel terrible going to try and drill it out. It’s a 2020 Rubi 4 door.

Jeep Wrangler JL Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps EBAB26CA-037F-4134-A882-65A7A8C93C96
Did you heat it or just hope for the best? Either way sucks and sorry.
 

DocTwinkie

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Doc... Duh.
As an update I re-torqued my body bolts one year later. Only one was out of spec and only about 1/8th of a turn.

I did not fully remove them or add/remove any loctite. Just heat, loosen, retighten.
 

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This is short of off topic and sort of on.....on the topic of factory stripped or overtightened bolts....

I found while installing a bracket for a rear Rokblokz mudflap one of the bolts that attach the rear bumper end to the frame was very tight backing out......after just a turn or so.

I worked it back and forth and got it out, and found that part of it was stripped. Luckily it's a thick bolt and did not break.....I chased the threads and stuck it back in and all is well..

I just happened across this thread and thought it was ironi.

Our jeep is brand new, has 1,000 miles on it.
 

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For anyone still needing this thread. As long as your bokts wefe not damaged by FCA upon installation...
Front nuts on either side of the hood need nothing and come right off.
Two bolts at the front of the tub, behind the front wheelwells have red loctite. Exactly 2.0min of direct heat on the bolt head with a MAP gas simple torch (home depot) and these will come right out with a 3/4" standard ratchet. DO MOT USE AIR TOOLS ON ANY BOLTS, ASK ME HOW I KNOW. Hold counter-clockwise tension on your socket to avoid the bolt/nut retainer in the body from rocking back and forth.
All other 6 remaining bolts have blue loctite and exactly 1 min 30 sec of the same direct heat on the bolt head and they come right out with the same standard legnth ratchet.
You can use a ratcheting torque wrench to remove if you'd like for more leverage.
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT
I used an impact on exactly one middle bolt. The nut in the body, that just kind of flops around, came out of place and i spent a good 45 min with safety wire and long picks to get it flipped back right side down and lined uo in the hole.
All bolts retorqued just fine to 80 lb/ft. I did have new hardware though as I was installing a 1.25" body lift. I actually gained closer to 1.5.
in case you are interested, Zone offroad 1.25" kit, simple install, a spacer on the power steering reservoir waz the only additional part. Great kit, highly recommend. Like $70 on sale shipped and any tax from liftkits4less.com
 

Devil6Dog

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I guess I got lucky, I just used a socket wrench and all came off with no issues on my 21JLUR. Maybe it's the Snazzleberry. The fact that I am not good with this stuff on my own and just know found this thread gave me anxiety. Now I will research this forum before I replace anything
 

FINN 2.0

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In my case anyway the only way I have broken bolts is by wrenching them off with a breaker bar. Never have broke any using an impact. Either way I spray them down with WD40.
 

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My JCR rock sliders are getting delivered this week and they tie into three body mount bolts as well as the stick rock rail connections. What's the consensus on removing the body mount bolts?

Heat them up and use an electric impact?

Heat and manual wrench?

Impact only?

Drop off at 4Wheel Parts and go have a beer while they do it?
 
 



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