Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps

Rubi

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Interesting, Did you read this entire thread ? I only ask because that’s the opposite of what most have been saying.
Yes, for the most part; I’ve read this entire thread. When I removed my body mount bolts, I didn’t even know about this problem. The majority of people using impacts didn’t break bolts. I did say majority; not everyone was so lucky.

It’s simple physics; a body in motion stays in motion. Once someone using a breaker bar stops and restarts multiple times you’re applying additional torque until you exceed the bolts torsional strength. When you start and stop you’re causing the threads to excessively bind up; which is exactly the purpose of Loctite. As I also stated constant rotational motion using an impact under load will create heat and soften the red Loctite.

I’m not advocating FCA’s use of red Loctite; which was not the best idea; I wire wheeled on a bench grinder all of the red Loctite off replaced with blue when re-installing.





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No IFS

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I also had great luck using an impact. The right front was tough, had to go in and out several times but it came out. removed the Loctite, added anti-seize. Torqued , just did a retorque after some miles.
 

Kevin Mojito

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I wire wheeled on a bench grinder all of the red Loctite off replaced with blue when re-installing.
If you need to ever remove again, lacquer thinner will wash it right off fast.
Yes I used blue on the replacement bolt, just like all the rest of the body bolts have..........
 

lordcon

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As some others have already stated, ignorance is bliss because I didnt discover this thread until after i already installed my Rock Hard 4x4 sliders this past weekend. I will say the passenger front body bolt gave me the most trouble - wouldnt budge with a cordless impact. I had to use a ratchet driver with a floor jack crank slipped over the handle that gave me 4 ft of leverage to crank that bolt off. All the others came off with the cordless impact gun. It didn't even occur to me that it it could shear. Because the 2 front bolts had red locktite on them, I opted to use the 8.8 grade 19mm bolts that were supplied with the sliders on those 2, but reused all the body bolts for the middle and rear. Honestly I was more nervous about potentially snapping the new bolts during torquing them in than I was removing the old ones. I only went to 80 lb ft on the body mounts because I didn't want to snap anything during tightening.

I guess I went through the whole process with confidence because I had installed ACE sliders on my '14 Rubicon previously with no issues. No one ever talked about the body bolts snapping on the JK.
 

Moregone

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33 pages. Can someone give me the cliff notes of what I need to do now? Broke my passenger front bolt.


Should I finish putting on the slider or leave it off?

I was aware of the concerns and went slow using a pipe on the end of a breaker bar and then ratchet after it got moving a little easier. It basically froze in place at one time so I applied some heat and then tried again. Started moving again and then just broke. Pretty cleanly and fast.

#$%@#&#@%!!

IMG_20200501_152458.jpg
 
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lordcon

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33 pages. Can someone give me the cliff notes of what I need to do now? Broke my passenger front bolt.


Should I finish putting on the slider or leave it off?

I was aware of the concerns and went slow using a pipe on the end of a breaker bar and then ratchet after it got moving a little easier. It basically froze in place at one time so I allied heat and then tried again. Started moving again and the other day just broke pretty cleanly and fast.

IMG_20200501_152458.jpg
Sorry for your luck. The cliff notes are: you have basically 3 options.

-Try your luck and drill into the broken piece and try to get an extractor in there.

-Remove the wheel/tire and fender lining and cut into your body to remove the mount.

-Remove the other body bolts on that side and attempt to separate (jack) the body from the frame so that you can get to the broken bolt piece and remove it.
 

Moregone

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Sorry for your luck. The cliff notes are: you have basically 3 options.

-Try your luck and drill into the broken piece and try to get an extractor in there.

-Remove the wheel/tire and fender lining and cut into your body to remove the mount.

-Remove the other body bolts on that side and attempt to separate (jack) the body from the frame so that you can get to the broken bolt piece and remove it.
Thank you for the reply.

I have seen in this thread that some people have reached out to Jeep and got some courtesy work. Is that worth looking into?

Has anyone successfully extracted the bolt? I mean as hard as it was with the breaker bar, I don't have confidence the extractor will work.
 

lordcon

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I have seen in this thread that some people have reached out to Jeep and got some courtesy work. Is that worth looking into?

Has any successfully extracted the bolt? I mean as hard as it was what make me think an extractor will work?
Totally worth trying to get your local dealer to cover the work if you can. Its a total pain in the ass to try to do yourself. Yes, reach out to Jeep if you can, you got nothing to loose at this point.

I have never personally attempted to do a broken bolt extraction on a body mount so I cant tell you if it will work or not. I can tell you that I have read this entire thread and can only recollect maybe 2 posters that claim they successfully extracted the broken piece.
 

Kevin Mojito

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back on post 270.
You need to use a Snap On / Bluepoint screw extractor set 1020 These bad boys will not break off. I tried one without heat and twisted it like a pretzel, never snapped. Read my post and you will get it out like a pro.
 

Kevin Mojito

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That's how I broke my bolt was with an impact gun...... The rest I did by hand to feel them.
 

MarkY3130

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Yes, for the most part; I’ve read this entire thread. When I removed my body mount bolts, I didn’t even know about this problem. The majority of people using impacts didn’t break bolts. I did say majority; not everyone was so lucky.

It’s simple physics; a body in motion stays in motion. Once someone using a breaker bar stops and restarts multiple times you’re applying additional torque until you exceed the bolts torsional strength. When you start and stop you’re causing the threads to excessively bind up; which is exactly the purpose of Loctite. As I also stated constant rotational motion using an impact under load will create heat and soften the red Loctite.

I’m not advocating FCA’s use of red Loctite; which was not the best idea; I wire wheeled on a bench grinder all of the red Loctite off replaced with blue when re-installing.
Maybe this is what you are saying and I’m just not following it, but an impact is a start stop start stop force on the bolt. The definition of the impact is that it hammers repeatedly (starts/stops) until it gets it moving and then it applies constant torque (spins freely) once it does. As long as the bolt keeps moving at a constant speed it will no longer hammer. If a bolt part way through removal seizes up, the impact will start hammering (start/stop force) again.

Maybe that’s what you mean. Just wasn’t following the part about an impact not applying a force in and start/stop manner.
 

No IFS

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That's how I broke my bolt was with an impact gun...... The rest I did by hand to feel them.
Where have you been ? 33 pages later. I read every post and used an impact specifically because nobody had broken one with an impact.
 

Kevin Mojito

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:LOL::bandit:

My feeling is Jeep has a bad bolt supplier. Way back when mine broke, it was really hit and miss. It still looks to be that way. No real for sure way to remove. My M-18 made 2 rattles, that was it. At first it looked like only the front driver or passenger side that broke (red loctite ones.) I have seen other's with the middle or rear broken too. Those are the rare ones.
 

jse

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Thank you for the reply.

I have seen in this thread that some people have reached out to Jeep and got some courtesy work. Is that worth looking into?

Has anyone successfully extracted the bolt? I mean as hard as it was with the breaker bar, I don't have confidence the extractor will work.
Earlier in this thread a process was outlined that worked for me. Really pretty straightforward and didn't have to cut into the body at all. Cliff notes are as follows:
-Lift the body off the frame enough to get the mount out.
-Drill into the broken bolt to use an extractor bit
-Heat up the bolt with a torch - really needs to get hot, a heat gun didnt work for me.
-Insert extractor bit and it comes out easily when hot enough to loosen the loctite.

Happy to have a phone call if you would like. Two different dealers shut me down. DM me if you want more details.
 

Rubi

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Maybe this is what you are saying and I’m just not following it, but an impact is a start stop start stop force on the bolt. The definition of the impact is that it hammers repeatedly (starts/stops) until it gets it moving and then it applies constant torque (spins freely) once it does. As long as the bolt keeps moving at a constant speed it will no longer hammer. If a bolt part way through removal seizes up, the impact will start hammering (start/stop force) again.

Maybe that’s what you mean. Just wasn’t following the part about an impact not applying a force in and start/stop manner.
There are impacts and there are hammer impacts; correct me if I'm wrong. I used a pneumatic, non-hammer, impact. Mine just rotates without any shock value with a high torque capacity. Mine is labeled "Impact" on its case, but I've never experienced a hammering effect from it. Yes, there are impacts that will revert to a hammering state when the torque requirement gets high enough.
 
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