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Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps

Jeepmarkjl

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I remembered more of my discussion with my mechanic who fixed mine. At first he tried drilling up from below to try to extract the broken part still stuck inside. the bit just spun round and round. He then took out driver seat, trim and pulled back carpet, drilled down from above. Then used an extractor and it came right out. Said taking the seat out and putting back was the most time. covered hole with epoxy and put everything back. I asked him about lifting whole body up and he said waste of time and money but Im sure a body shop would love it.
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Jeepmarkjl

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Also they had to order a bolt which they got in one day but I dont have which one they ordered. I can try and hunt it down or call mechanic tomorrow if you cant find the info.
 

danielmio

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Also they had to order a bolt which they got in one day but I dont have which one they ordered. I can try and hunt it down or call mechanic tomorrow if you cant find the info.
Thanks for the info Mark! A parts person is looking for the bolt now, but the issue is that the drawings don’t show him where it goes. Was yours the smaller washer bolt under the drivers door? If so would really appreciate if you have the part number. Perhaps on an invoice?
 

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What size, length, and thread pitch are these bolts? They sound weak and brittle. When I install my sliders I think I’ll just replace them all with more robust hardware.
 

danielmio

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Today I got an extractor in my bolt. Won't even move. Certainly there is something wrong with this mount. Next step might be to have a look up top by having to cut the floor, and try to get at it that way. Such a mess. I am convinced there is an issue with this mount bolt, but I have made too much a mess of it now to try and get jeep to care about it. Just have to fix it myself. Damn these rock sliders..I should have just dealt with jumping in the jeep =[.
 

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danielmio

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I was able to get an extractor in my bolt, but it won't move!! This thing is stuck in there. Looks like I have an unlucky bolt that just didn't want to come out.

My local dealer was able to order me in 2 of the replacement bolts. They came with notched threads on the end and red thread lock. The other bolts have blue, at least the one they had was blue. Seems for some reason these bolts were never meant to come out. That being said, so many people had no issues. If you hear cracking, take it slow, maybe stop. ACE says they used a air racket to hammer at the bolt loose once the bar made it looser. Should have tried that.
 

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Ughhhh despite reading this thread and following the suggestions meticulously I tried to install the aforementioned ACE sliders. Two small gentle turns and the front passenger side bolt breaks!

Does anyone know the size of these bolts or better yet a part number? I am so frustrated that I can barely think. WTF.
 

Saejin

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Yeah, these bolts are not meant to come out by the average home mechanic....they hold the body to the frame. I took mine out on my JKU using a air ratchet, so I think that’s the trick and also heat if you want to totally sure. Using a regular ratchet with a breaker bar puts too much stress on the bolt since it’s locked in there with what I assume is red Loctite or something similar which required heat to break free safely.

Some have succeeded though.

If anyone else wants to try this I recommend heating the bolt up to 550F and then break it loose.
 

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I was one of the lucky ones with no broken bolts, but just barely. Used breaker bar, air ratchet. The passenger rear bolt cross-threaded it’s way back to tight. I hope the ace sliders are made to last b/c they’re never coming off!
 

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I nearly gave up on mine while installing my ACE sliders. I had to apply so much downward pressure just to keep the anchor nuts from turning I thought something was wrong. I have been wrenching for fifty years and never encountered anything like it. I really thought the bolts would snap. I so wished I had installed the weld to frame version. If I had it to do over there is no doubt in my mind I would. I am still worried to this day that those bolts are not right. Going to check them every once in a while to make sure they are staying put. Wished I had read this thread before I did mine even though I had no bolts break.

Ace really should give some direction on this. I had no install sheet at all. The JK bolts were no where near as tough as these to remove. Not to mention the strange configuration of the bolts and washers being different from front to back. Not too confident in the set-up at this point. My third set of ACE sliders installed at this point 2013 JKU, 2015 JKUR and our 18 JLUR.
 

Richamby

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Red loc-tite has the be heated to re-liquify so the bolts can be removed. Jeep really didn’t want these to be removed.

Ace needs to put this, red loc-tite on the front bolts, in their instructions so, moving forward, we all know how much “fun” this is going to be.

If you can get the bolt to loosen slightly, it’s best to then tighten the bolt back, then loosen a little more, then tighten and continue this slow process until you get the bolt out. Anytime it starts to get hard to turn, go back in the other direction. Loc-tite packs into the threads as you move the bolt, this cleaning action, keeps it from packing so tight, the bolt yeilds. Breaks.

If the bolt is really tight, when you try to loosen it, try to tighten it a little first and go back and forth, as above.

You guys rock getting these installed despite the challenges.
 
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FrankieFJL

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I nearly gave up on mine while installing my ACE sliders. I had to apply so much downward pressure just to keep the anchor nuts from turning I thought something was wrong. I have been wrenching for fifty years and never encountered anything like it. I really thought the bolts would snap. I so wished I had installed the weld to frame version. If I had it to do over there is no doubt in my mind I would. I am still worried to this day that those bolts are not right. Going to check them every once in a while to make sure they are staying put. Wished I had read this thread before I did mine even though I had no bolts break.

Ace really should give some direction on this. I had no install sheet at all. The JK bolts were no where near as tough as these to remove. Not to mention the strange configuration of the bolts and washers being different from front to back. Not too confident in the set-up at this point. My third set of ACE sliders installed at this point 2013 JKU, 2015 JKUR and our 18 JLUR.
+1
I used to be a mechanic back in the day and turned a few wrenches myself. I never experienced anything like this. Lots of popping and snapping, I thought I was gonna break something. I did it all with hand tools, no impact tools. I turned everything nice and slow. The hardest part was the downward pressure to remove those rear bolts. Don't know if I would ever want to do this again!
 
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Khsonic03

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I know sometimes impact tools are better for breaking loose rusty or stuck bolts more reliably than a breaker bar, which tends to shear them.

Just curious for those that broke the bolts - did you use breaker bars or impact guns?

Not saying it was the wrong way. Just thinking to help future people who attempt this job what they will have better luck with.
 

OBJLU

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not having to remove these bolts is why I went with the more expensive LOD sliders.
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