Caution: Broken Body Mount Bolt When Installing Frame Mount Rock Sliders / Rails / Sidesteps

[Wightmn]

After hearing all the people having problems, I asked the dealership to pull the body bolts and clean off the thread locker prior to delivery. They were undercoating it and had it up anyway. Didn't charge me a dime to pull them. When I went to install the RockHard 4x4 rails, they were a breeze.

Sponsored

 

[Jondrew]

S.O.B......... add me to the list broke bolt club.
Heat with my Milwaukee impact--bang-bang- freespin...............

That sucks. Heated mine and used an air impact gun and they came right out. Was that a front bolt?

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

After hearing all the people having problems, I asked the dealership to pull the body bolts and clean off the thread locker prior to delivery. They were undercoating it and had it up anyway. Didn't charge me a dime to pull them. When I went to install the RockHard 4x4 rails, they were a breeze.

You were lucky to have them be so accommodating. I had the dealership put mine on a lift for pre delivery inspection, I wanted to check all the problem areas (track bar bracket, frame, etc.) that had some bad welds on some of the 2018s. No problems. I asked if they’d take out just the front bolt on each side, clean off the red loctite, and replace them. I’d pay, of course. They declined. I asked why and they told me they didn’t want to do it for the same reason I don’t - because they break. They knew full well about the issue. They thought that if they break them off I might walk away from buying that particular Jeep.

Fortunately I was able to remove all 6 for my rock slider install without issue.

 

[Kevin Mojito]

That sucks. Heated mine and used an air impact gun and they came right out. Was that a front bolt?

Front driver side...... Have not started the other yet. Still working on get the broken one out....... No luck yet. Drilled, Blue Point/Snap on extractor twisted it ( the extractor ). Glad it did not snap in two. Bolt still there.

Side note:
No way this is a 10.9 bolt. Way to soft to drill for a hardened bolt.

 

[Cypher]

This thread is exactly why I waited for a good slider that does not require removing the body bolt. The new ones from Roam Off-road should work well as a step and slider, and no need to remove the body mount. Being frame mounted should be plenty strong. As long as they don't interfere with the Metalcloak Undercloak skid I will be a happy camper.

There were a few I liked, but ultimately I did not want to deal with a broken body bolt. How do most people get this fixed? Do they require drilling out from above like older Jeeps, or just hard work from below?

 

[Jondrew]

There were a few I liked, but ultimately I did not want to deal with a broken body bolt. How do most people get this fixed? Do they require drilling out from above like older Jeeps, or just hard work from below?

Fortunately I never had to find out first hand. I am curious how people ultimately fixed them. My plan was to drill into the floor from above and try to get an extraction tool in from there (the front of the bolt is tapered so that would have been challenging). I also considered drilling a large enough hole (2-2/1”?) to get to the top of the body isolator and removing it from there. Then sealing the hole up with some sheet metal and epoxy. Maybe somone who fixed a bolt could post some pictures of what they did.

 

[Jeepmarkjl]

Fortunately I never had to find out first hand. I am curious how people ultimately fixed them. My plan was to drill into the floor from above and try to get an extraction tool in from there (the front of the bolt is tapered so that would have been challenging). I also considered drilling a large enough hole (2-2/1”?) to get to the top of the body isolator and removing it from there. Then sealing the hole up with some sheet metal and epoxy. Maybe somone who fixed a bolt could post some pictures of what they did.

This is what my mechanic did. I dont think he made a wide hole like you are suggesting though, Just big enough to get the extractor in to get the broken bolt part out. Patched it up with epoxy. He took out the driver seat to give him self some room to work too. Whole process took less than an hour. Taking the seat out and back in took the most time. Dont have picks though.

 

[Jlmack75]

I just finished installing my eag rock sliders/ steps and it was not to bad. I used a heat gun on front mounts and when it started to give me resistance I would back it off alittle and start again. The back two mounts came out easily. I did spray some PB blaster on the mounts a few times the day before I put them on and just used a breaker bar to get bolts loose - no air gun.

 

[Fire Burns]

You're one of the few to report use of PB Blaster or WD-40 the day before an attempt. Great idea.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

You're one of the few to report use of PB Blaster or WD-40 the day before an attempt. Great idea.

It does jack squat to break down Loctite. Even if it could, it won’t penetrate far enough to reach it on those long bolts. Placebo effect.

 

[Jondrew]

It does jack squat to break down Loctite. Even if it could, it won’t penetrate far enough to reach it on those long bolts. Placebo effect.

My theory on heat also. The heat would have to travel 4 or 5 inches to get to where the locktite is. I did it for the placebo effect.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Hey, if it makes you more confident of doing the job I ain’t gonna take that away from anybody. I almost tried acetone to break the Loctite and heat to help it penetrate more. Then said screw it svd took a chance.

 

[Kevin Mojito]

Finally had some time today, to work on the broken bolt.
I'll go over what I did, hope it works for the next poor s.o.b. with broken body bolt. I did take it to Jeep on the off chance they might do it..... Not a chance. Was told to go to a body shop.... B.S. I can do it just did not want to....

Step 1. After bolt is broken, loosen the middle and back mount bolts 1 inch down.

Step 2. Jack side of body up just enough to remove front mount.

Step 3. Hit the bolt upward with a big hammer hit. Drill and use Blue Point Snap On 1020 screw extractor kit. Can be found on ebay cheap used.

Step 4. With the mount out of the way you can heat the bolt directly at the body/bolt/red loctite area. You will need to heat it enough to melt the paint off. No problem just touch up afterwards.

Step 5. Hammer in the extractor, rock back and forth. then just unthread it out.

Step 6. Drink a Beer or 3, because you did not get any sleep the last week waiting for tools to show up.....

In all took about 30 minutes to get it out of the body. No real special tools. Floor Jack, drill gun, Snap Extractor kit ( think a must have ), MAP gas torch, basic hand tools. No holes in floor, no removing the body off the frame, blah, blah,... As the dealer was talking about. $800-1,500. I don't think so.

I'll get the correct part#'s for bolt this next week as they come in. They are not all the same size. For 4 door anyways.

Front Bolt that breaks:
6512962AA it should be under $4.00.
Comes with free red thread locker that you will want to wash off and add blue thread locker.

 

[rockadile]

I started a poll to see if we could try and figure out what works and what doesn't.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-steps-what-worked-and-what-didnt-work.25437/

 

[twisty]

I recall reading long ago needing heat on red locktite. I think it was on the directions. I have some in the shop and will check again but a simple youtube search yeilds this:



I follow directions like a software guy follows code, unless of course there is a reason not to. I havent read anything on this thread that indicates a reason not to remove them per the directions. HEAT.

Sponsored