Canbus freak out Jeep had to be towed

[mwilk012]

I’m only at 16000 miles. Think both batteries could need replacing that soon?

Yep. And one bad battery can damage the other.

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[WranglerMan]

I’m betting it’s that BS baby battery...mine is gone and I don’t miss it one bit.

 

[mwilk012]

I’m betting it’s that BS baby battery...mine is gone and I don’t miss it one bit.

IME it’s just about as likely to be the main AGM battery. The Mopar batteries aren’t very reliable, we see shorted cells on batteries less than 2 years old pretty often.

 

[Arisdocjk]

IME it’s just about as likely to be the main AGM battery. The Mopar batteries aren’t very reliable, we see shorted cells on batteries less than 2 years old pretty often.

Any recommendations on what brand of battery to get

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Any recommendations on what brand of battery to get

Per @Rhinebeck01, who did a lot of research: NORTHSTAR Pure Lead Automotive Group 48 Battery NSB-AGM48

 

[Arisdocjk]

Per @Rhinebeck01, who did a lot of research: NORTHSTAR Pure Lead Automotive Group 48 Battery NSB-AGM48

. Thanks

 

[Arisdocjk]

Best place to buy the northstar battery and do they make the auxiliary size battery too?

 

[WranglerMan]

IME it’s just about as likely to be the main AGM battery. The Mopar batteries aren’t very reliable, we see shorted cells on batteries less than 2 years old pretty often.

My main battery actually only lasted about 7 months before it failed, was covered under warranty but I never liked the location of where the ESS battery was and I never use ESS as I have it disabled with a SSS module so I had both removed and went with a Genesis dual battery setup.

I could have gone a lot cheaper by running with a jumper on N1 to N2 or moved the ESS positive to the main positive and removed the ESS negative and I could have even did what several have done like @Rhinebeck01 and @Jebiruph did and buy some switches and gages and make my own system to monitor and maintain the poorly designed FCA system but it still came down to the secondary battery’s location and yes I know some say just remove the fender flare or go in thru the top but changing a battery should not require ripping off a fender flare or removing the PDC to get to the battery that would, could and has left several stranded but apparently FCA has addressed that with a software patch but it’s still BS so I went a different route and yes it’s a costly one but I run some aux equipment and now have two batteries that I can easily get to from the top with a few simple tools plus have a built in jump pack providing I have not pulled my aux battery down two far..

I do no condemn anyones method of managing a poorly designed system and there are multiple ways to make the stock system more reliable by providing the Jeep owner with info they need to monitor and maintain the stock system for little $$$ like @Rhinebeck01 and @Jebiruph have done as I believe they run similar if not identical systems and they did there’s for a minimal investment and I’m on other end of the side of that with a system that allows me to run aux equipment without taxing my main crank battery plus have the extra power from two full size batteries and lastly have a built in jump pack so to speak but my option is not for everyone as the cost is pretty high when you factor in the cost of two full size quality AGM battery’s plus the equipment from Genesis or similar maker of a dual system but what is cheap to do on a Jeep

 

[mwilk012]

My main battery actually only lasted about 7 months before it failed, was covered under warranty but I never liked the location of where the ESS battery was and I never use ESS as I have it disabled with a SSS module so I had both removed and went with a Genesis dual battery setup.

I could have gone a lot cheaper by running with a jumper on N1 to N2 or moved the ESS positive to the main positive and removed the ESS negative and I could have even did what several have done like @Rhinebeck01 and @Jebiruph did and buy some switches and gages and make my own system to monitor and maintain the poorly designed FCA system but it still came down to the secondary battery’s location and yes I know some say just remove the fender flare or go in thru the top but changing a battery should not require ripping off a fender flare or removing the PDC to get to the battery that would, could and has left several stranded but apparently FCA has addressed that with a software patch but it’s still BS so I went a different route and yes it’s a costly one but I run some aux equipment and now have two batteries that I can easily get to from the top with a few simple tools plus have a built in jump pack providing I have not pulled my aux battery down two far..

I do no condemn anyones method of managing a poorly designed system and there are multiple ways to make the stock system more reliable by providing the Jeep owner with info they need to monitor and maintain the stock system for little $$$ like @Rhinebeck01 and @Jebiruph have done as I believe they run similar if not identical systems and they did there’s for a minimal investment and I’m on other end of the side of that with a system that allows me to run aux equipment without taxing my main crank battery plus have the extra power from two full size batteries and lastly have a built in jump pack so to speak but my option is not for everyone as the cost is pretty high when you factor in the cost of two full size quality AGM battery’s plus the equipment from Genesis or similar maker of a dual system but what is cheap to do on a Jeep

If you think that battery is bad, put one in a Chrysler 200.

 

[WranglerMan]

If you think that battery is bad, put one in a Chrysler 200.

i honestly don’t think any factory battery dependable and to be honest batteries are expendable and they start to fail from day 1 and after countless research that I have done most ppl that drive any vehicle don’t properly maintain a battery, I was actually one of them and never gave battery upkeep much thought until my JL

 

[ChattVol]

I’m only at 16000 miles. Think both batteries could need replacing that soon?

Yep...dont automatically rule something out when talkin about Fiat Chrysler quality.

 

[Arisdocjk]

I recently added some led fender lights with sequential turn signals about 2 weeks ago. I didn’t tap into anything, they were plug and play. Is there any way that they could have caused the can bus freakout?

 

[RFR JLR 2.0]

Had a similar issue yesterday. When I pulled off the freeway and stopped at an intersection the engine died as soon as I took my foot off the brake with ESS engaged. All kinds of lights and warnings. Once I put it in park I couldn’t shift back to neutral. Had it towed home and will get it to dealer today. 2019 JLUR with 16,000 miles. Luckily this happened a few miles from my house after a weekend of camping and off roading. Had this happen any earlier we could have been stranded miles from the nearest paved road. Will follow this thread for updates. Thanks

 

[Arisdocjk]

Had a similar issue yesterday. When I pulled off the freeway and stopped at an intersection the engine died as soon as I took my foot off the brake with ESS engaged. All kinds of lights and warnings. Once I put it in park I couldn’t shift back to neutral. Had it towed home and will get it to dealer today. 2019 JLUR with 16,000 miles. Luckily this happened a few miles from my house after a weekend of camping Iand off roading. Had this happen any earlier we could have been stranded miles from the nearest paved road. Will follow this thread for updates. Thanks

I will post any updates on mine. Hopefully, we get this fixed ASAP

 

[neil]

what batteries are you going with?

bypassing the aux in one of the many forum approved ways will address this for the future.

Another option is an extended warranty and frequent meetings with lovely service advisors who pass the blame.

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