Can I go back to the OEM style fender flares from the chopped flares?

[Fredo]

I bought painted black rubicon fender flares to make my black sport. The fenders were chopped. I used them for awhile but ultimately don’t like how the look with my 2in spacer lift and 35s. I’m wondering if it’s possible to go back to the oem style rubicon fenders or do I need to buy new fenders? Does mopar sell the internals for the fenders and their lights separately?

Sponsored

 

[blnewt]

Might consider trading, I'm sure there's many on the site that would do that. If not, as long as just the lower inner fender was removed w/ no cutting you should be able to return them to stock.

 

[falcon241073]

I have a set of LED rubicon lights I’ll sell you. $300 shipped

 

[Headbarcode]

There's no going back after chopping a fender. The upper and lower halves were plastic welded together at the factory. There wouldn't be any easy way of reattached them, especially with the painted finish. Holding out on a trade or buying new and having them paint matched are your only options.

 

[blnewt]

There's no going back after chopping a fender. The upper and lower halves were plastic welded together at the factory. There wouldn't be any easy way of reattached them, especially with the painted finish. Holding out on a trade or buying new and having them paint matched are your only options.

My bad, I thought those plastic rivets could be bought and used there, maybe that's just for the Sport sets (or maybe you can never put them back w/ any model???)

 

[Headbarcode]

My bad, I thought those plastic rivets could be bought and used there, maybe that's just for the Sport sets (or maybe you can never put them back w/ any model???)

The liner is the only replaceable part of the fender flares. Once chopped, there's nowhere to attach the liner on both the underside and outer edge of the flare.

The Rubicons and Saharas have 2-piece flares that are easier to chop. The Sports have a 1-piece design that requires the extra step of having to neatly cut a separation line around the outer edge.

You've also been here for a few years, so you might remember. In the early JL days, there was a thread about the mystery grid pattern of morning dew on the tops of the flares. It was caused by the honeycomb shape of the lower half, so dew would form above the air pockets but not above the contact grid. There's about 2 dozen plastic welds about the size of a thumb within that contact grid, per flare. It would be difficult to reestablish those hold points. Heat is out of the question, especially on painted flares. Something applied cold like marine tex or jb weld may work, but I don't see it bonding as strong and it would suck to have flares rattling like they had Legos in them.

Sponsored