Buying a new jeep for first time

[Rubicon127]

What's up everyone , I finally have saved for years to buy a new Rubicon cash down paid in full. I'm just procrastinating to deal with dealerships and the bullshit salesmen on the lot. I'm to the point of just continuing to drive my 1999 Honda Accord LOL. I dont have much patience for these slimy con artists and I can see me walking off the lot within 10 minutes. It's been awhile since I played the haggling game and I'm not so sure I will let them know I'm planning to pay in full. I know they like the financing buyers , because that's where they gouge people. I watched a video of a dealer in Canada , give info on how much off the sticker these dealers can knock off. He said from the low end Wrangler 2 door at about 2k off sticker price , than the higher end Rubicon loaded can knock up to 5-7k. IF they are honest dealers.
This isn't off the total sticker price , it's off the lower end price you see on the sticker.
Can anyone tell me about their experience and how much you were able to get them dow ? Now I know the financing people are going to have a different experience cause they get you in the end total price. What can I look forward to , if I'm paying the full cost out the door. Thanks for any help.

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[Shooting or Jeeping]

What area do you plan on buying in? This is important, as your location drives a lot of the negotiation power.

 

[TimmH]

I got mine down to 42,500 from 46,210 MSRP. I had financing already with a check in hand, so as far as they were concerned it was a cash deal.

I worked with 4 dealerships in my area, all but 1 were pretty close on how much they would come down, for me it came down to trade value.

The 1 that wouldn't come down much also low balled me on my trade in by 4k less than the other offered.

Another was slow to respond to my offers (I do everything by phone and email, I don't want to sit in the dealership and haggle), and by the time they did, the one I was interested in sold off their lot.

The 3rd was great, we went back and forth worked out a tentative deal (depending on trade once they saw it, although they offered based on VIN and my description), but they didn't have one on the lot, they had one that matched my interests coming in later that week.

The one I bought from, was quick to respond, I sent him his stock number to ensure it was there, he even took a video of it on his lot showing every inch of the vehicle and texted it to me. We worked out a deal (again based on unseen trade), and I said I'd be there in an hour. Walked in, test drove it while they looked over my trade, they agreed with the original trade-in offer, and deal , I signed papers handed over my check and the whole process was done in less than an hour.

I actually spent probably 15 minutes after signing waiting for the detail to get finished.

 

[jeremyjeep]

Be sure to test drive it for at least 1 hour in all types of conditions especially the highway. Many are reporting steering problems. Also, shop around to at least 3 dealerships and get written quotes from each. Finally, check out the other threads on purchasing info. Many are posting pictures showing the prices they paid. This will be a good reference. If you have cash, no trade in, then you just minimized the "game" sales people can play, so you are "in the driver's seat" big time.

 

[Jrbrannan]

You have saved up money and are buying a new car... My opinion is always to order one brand new to be built. That way you get exactly what you want and you can pit dealers against each other because you will be comparing apples to apples.

I did it this way and I had dealers from across the country as well as local dealers. Get all the pricing in writing and choose what deal works best for you.

For reference my Rubicon MSRP was $49k and I got it for just a bit over $42k and brought a check the day I picked it up. I also got a free 5/60 bumper to bumper warranty. It pays to be able to compare apples to apples and pit dealers against each other. The total process took about 2 weeks to research, reach out to all the dealers and put my deposit down but at no time did I worry about dealing with slimy dealers and I did it 100% over the phone and online. Very easy.

 

[gofastguy]

I would recommend not mentioning the cash part at all during price negotiations. I used to kind of enjoy the haggling to get to a fair price but when I bought the Jeep, I came home after my second trip to my local dealer not even close to my target price. I decided I didn't feel like playing the game this time so I came home and called one of the 6% off invoice dealers who can be found on this site. Within 20 minutes total I was able to put together what I consider a great deal with zero hassles. Totally transparent deal that was not one penny more than was discussed. Not even a couple bucks for the temp tag to drive home!

 

[Wanderingwheelz]

What's up everyone , I finally have saved for years to buy a new Rubicon cash down paid in full. I'm just procrastinating to deal with dealerships and the bullshit salesmen on the lot. I'm to the point of just continuing to drive my 1999 Honda Accord LOL. I dont have much patience for these slimy con artists and I can see me walking off the lot within 10 minutes. It's been awhile since I played the haggling game and I'm not so sure I will let them know I'm planning to pay in full. I know they like the financing buyers , because that's where they gouge people. I watched a video of a dealer in Canada , give info on how much off the sticker these dealers can knock off. He said from the low end Wrangler 2 door at about 2k off sticker price , than the higher end Rubicon loaded can knock up to 5-7k. IF they are honest dealers.
This isn't off the total sticker price , it's off the lower end price you see on the sticker.
Can anyone tell me about their experience and how much you were able to get them dow ? Now I know the financing people are going to have a different experience cause they get you in the end total price. What can I look forward to , if I'm paying the full cost out the door. Thanks for any help.

I don’t think it makes any difference to the dealer or the salesperson whether or not you pay with cash or finance. The salesperson’s commission is based on the selling price, not the financing interest rate. The financing guy would definitely rather see you borrow money, but by the time you get in front of him the final selling price has already been agreed to.

I also agree with the comments made about ordering exactly what you want. This can save you money if there are options on in-stock Wranglers that you do not want or need. I don’t agree that you can secure a better deal by ordering so long as you stick to a % off of MSRP/Invoice that will allow you to compare apples to apples in the sense that each Rubicon you consider will have the same “deal” from one dealer to the next (save for the variables in doc fees and perhaps travel expenses for a far away dealer).

Also, even though you’re a cash buyer (and major kudos for disciplining yourself by saving before buying), waiting weeks to take delivery or an ordered Wrangler can have a material affect on borrowed money in a sharply rising interest rate environment like the one we are in. Some are calling for a 10 year rate near 4% quickly, which would be a big move from here, adding significantly to a long term loans interest expense. This is what many are expecting car sales, and especially home sales, to cool in the period ahead. This may not affect a quickly delivered Rubicon, but may have a bigger affect on one that is delayed for one reason or another. But you’re paying cash so you don’t have any concern over interest payments.

Regardless of what sort of deal you end up with you’re coming out far far ahead by not paying any interest on your Rubicon. That said, I’d shoot for 5% under invoice (including doc fee) thinking anything you get below that is icing on the cake. On a Rubicon I suspect you can find a dealer that’s willing to go lower.

 

[Lacroix1]

What's up everyone , I finally have saved for years to buy a new Rubicon cash down paid in full. I'm just procrastinating to deal with dealerships and the bullshit salesmen on the lot. I'm to the point of just continuing to drive my 1999 Honda Accord LOL. I dont have much patience for these slimy con artists and I can see me walking off the lot within 10 minutes. It's been awhile since I played the haggling game and I'm not so sure I will let them know I'm planning to pay in full. I know they like the financing buyers , because that's where they gouge people. I watched a video of a dealer in Canada , give info on how much off the sticker these dealers can knock off. He said from the low end Wrangler 2 door at about 2k off sticker price , than the higher end Rubicon loaded can knock up to 5-7k. IF they are honest dealers.
This isn't off the total sticker price , it's off the lower end price you see on the sticker.
Can anyone tell me about their experience and how much you were able to get them dow ? Now I know the financing people are going to have a different experience cause they get you in the end total price. What can I look forward to , if I'm paying the full cost out the door. Thanks for any help.

Had a very similar experience as a first time Jeep owner. I currently drive a Porsche and BMWs in the past and always wanted to add a Wrangler; the JL did it for me as a the most refined to date. I went to about 5 dealers in Orange County in Southern California and I encountered the Good = 1, the BAD = 4 and the Ugly = 4. All were bunch of sleazy, dishonest, "used car salesman" mentality with lies oozing out of their skin. I was amazed that FCA allows bunch of sharks to run their dealerships but wasn't surprised at all. I went to each dealer prepared with what I want, what I was willing to pay, and a check in hand. JStar Auto in Anaheim Hills was the only dealership with some class, probably because they also sell Maseratis along side so they know their clientele well. I made an offer of a $41K (because I wanted to be under $45K including taxes and registration) on a fully loaded Granite Sahara with MSRP of over $48K and they took it. I was in and out in an hour; was great experience with JStar Auto...

 

[wibornz]

I found it pretty easy to get the Rubicon for 6% under invoice. My Order for the 19 JLUR had a MSRP of $51715.00 the Invoice price was $48805.00 and the agreed selling price was $45877.00

+ doc fee of $210 and sales tax.

 

[lightsout]

Just purchased my JLU Sahara MSRP (Sticker price) was $46,552, purchase price $39,668 ($6800 off), That also included a lifetime drive train warranty. Instead of going to lots and looking to find the right one, I first used www.carguru.com to locate the lowest price new wrangler similar to the option package I wanted. Turns out for me that I purchased that lowest priced (heavily discounted) advertised JLUS it was a perfect match. I paid the advertised price no negotiation and I was more than OK with that as I knew there was NO more $$$ for them to give. Often dealers use a portion of their advertising dollars to dramatically reduce price of a single car as this is their loss leader, that was the case with mine. You can also find that lowest price JL on cargurus's or other sites and just take that ad in with you as a negotiating price. I did this wen I bought a new Ford Fusion for my son, I found the lowest advertised price Fusion on the region and then took it to my local ford dealer and said here is what I will pay and of you are not interested in selling to me another dealer will. Dealers do not like to be undersold by other dealers with proof like thisit eliminates much of the negotiating process.

 

[ThirtyOne]

Take a closer look on this forum. There are a lot of no-haggle dealers all over the country offering 5%-7% off invoice if you order.

Because Jeep doesn't do factory incentives on Wranglers they are the easiest vehicle to know what a fair price is. There should be no stress getting to a price on a Wrangler.

 

[cjaama]

Yeah, there's a whole sub-forum dedicated to these topics:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/forums/ordering-and-pricing-discussions.7/

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