BUILD PLAN, MAX UPTRAVEL HELP

[ArmyRN]

When I put the IRO hydraulic bumpstops in my Jeep, I got 5" of uptravel (3" before making contact, and then two more inches with the bumpstop compression). That was too much. So I added a 1.25" spacer to bring it down to 4". At 4" my shocks are fully compressed.

Sponsored

 

[Bdoza10]

Yeah, but I don't wanna. I was hoping someone already had. I don't believe suspension, drivetrain or steering will limit up travel an additional 1.5". I put 35s on my stock Willys with 2.5" wheel spacers and nothing hit, not even the tires into the fenders, but I doubt I fully articulated the front end. You are correct though.

You’re honestly afraid of the most simple thing. Put the jeep on stands and yank the springs. To do hydraulic bumps you have to do this work anyway. Also if you get shocks that are too short you can always swap eyelets. It takes 10 mins and will cost you $40. Your best bet is to just dive in.

 

[ASSFROW]

You’re honestly afraid of the most simple thing. Put the jeep on stands and yank the springs. To do hydraulic bumps you have to do this work anyway. Also if you get shocks that are too short you can always swap eyelets. It takes 10 mins and will cost you $40. Your best bet is to just dive in.

I'm not afraid, I'm busy and have a ton of stuff going in this year. Wife is having surgery later tis month and I'm having surgery the end of September which will put me out for physical stuff for at least 2 months and that's prime weather for this kind of stuff. It will also change the order of what I wanted to do. I'll get the right shocks. I'm not willing to go with a shock that's too short and sacrifice what the longer shock will offer, so I'll eventually do the work and measure.

 

[Bdoza10]

2.5 remote reservoirs on stock coils, no adjustable track bar or links is far from a proper suspension. It will never be aligned well, the shocks will be so much stiffer than the coils that they will just blow through.

I think you’re missing the part where he’s a stock xr, no lift? Maybe adjustable lowers or uppers. One or the other. I prefer lowers. Metalcloak says go uppers. Either one is fine. Track bar? Why he’s 1/4 inch off center at most with his set up. And his coils are factory spec. With heavy valving from the 2.5 it should ride quite nice. Now bilsteins digressive isn’t my favorite. But it’s a hell of a lot better than stock. And way better than any Chinesium shock from rancho

 

[Bdoza10]

I am quite familiar with straight axle vehicles and how they can handle (stock and modified). 96 Dodge 1500 4x4, 98 Jeep ZJ, 89 Range Rover Classic, 56 Willys Truck, 98 Jeep TJ, 46 Willys CJ2A, and my current 23 JLU Willys XR.

I will note of all of those, the jl has a massive jump in potential because of the linked suspension. And with geometry we have and the mounting points where they are you leave a lot on the table by not running modern shocks. Anything with bypasses will feel like Ivan Stewart’s short course truck. Compared to the stock shocks or anything rancho offers.

 

[Bdoza10]

I'm not afraid, I'm busy and have a ton of stuff going in this year. Wife is having surgery later tis month and I'm having surgery the end of September which will put me out for physical stuff for at least 2 months and that's prime weather for this kind of stuff. It will also change the order of what I wanted to do. I'll get the right shocks. I'm not willing to go with a shock that's too short and sacrifice what the longer shock will offer, so I'll eventually do the work and measure.

Here’s the thing, if the shock you get is too short just grab a set of metalcloaks outboard mounts that raise the eyelet and rotate it. It’s $100 and for what you’re spending, it’s probably not a bad place to start. Or again eyelets are a ten minute job… the reason you don’t see every one jumping to give you an exact answer is all jeeps are built just a little different. And year to year there’s a bit of variation. And depending on how you use your jeep what one person may recommend can be way off.

our tires rubbed the rear fenders for six months. Only at full flex, and only really in 4low situations. It was never an issue any other time and all it did was make a tiny bit of noise. Also if you get shocks that are too long there’s a long list of ways to compensate for that as well.

 

[Bdoza10]

The front of my Jeep uses the factory XR springs and a half-inch TF spacer. With the axle crossed (one tire stuffed, one dangling) when the up axle went up 4" the tire was rubbing the inside fenderwell. Shocks or bumpstops here made no difference. And my bumpstop fully compresses at 4", so I can go up 4".

When I put the half-inch spacer up front, the factory red XR shocks were pretty much fully extended. So I had minimal axle droop. I did some research, and figured the Fox 2.0 IFP shocks for a 2 to 3 inch lift would have enough compression, and give me more droop so if off-road, my tires should be contacting the ground at all times. And I wasn't breaking the bank buying the shocks. And I wasn't dropping the axle too much (I think the consensus is shocks should have no more than 29" extension or it can negatively damage the front driveshaft).

Like you, my Jeep (23 Willys XR 2.0T) is my daily driver with occasional off road (overlanding) and snow. I put half-inch spacers all around partly for looks, but also to put some more space in the front bumpstop. Less than $100 for all four spacers.

Mopar front LCAs. $65.00

Fox 2.0 IFP shocks for more droop and maybe improve the ride (can't really tell if it did to be truthful). $700?

IRO hydraulic bumpstops to increase bumpstop space. Don't want to be banging the bumpstops when overlanding. Not expensive - $300ish.

But I did dump some money into the axles. All this other stuff doesn't really help a lot off-road or in the snow if you don't have traction to the tires on the ground. So I put TrueTracs front and rear. This was MY priority. They're invisible on pavement, awesome in snow, and great for mild to moderate off-roading. Almost $4000.

Since I overland and pull a small teardrop trailer, I put Clayton 2.5" springs in the rear and removed the spacer. Whenever I get a winch and winch bumper up front, I'll put some Clayton 2.5" springs up front. And keep the Fox shocks.

If the fox 2.0’s weren’t much of an improvement I just did some testing with bilstein 8100’s and those were phenomenal on road. Can be had with some serious searching in the 800-1000$ range

 

[Mustapha Mond]

I'll help you out. My Jeep is a Sport with Rubicon axles for what it is worth with the factory non-extended bumpstops.

I am running stock Rubicon springs with the 0-1.5" Fox 2.0 IFP shocks (16.25 compressed/25.85 extended Front, 16.75 compressed/26.85 extended Rear), and the Mopar extended (1/4") front lowers on 35/12.50R17 Toyo M/Ts mounted on stock Sport wheels (17x7.5", +45mm offset).

Additionally, I am running the Motobilt high clearance inner fenders (MB1243 & MB1254) with KBD flares.

I get rubbing on the inner fenders fully flexed out, but it is 100% a wheel offset issue. There isn't much clearance at full bump for more bump travel even if the tire rubbing isn't an issue, so I would not shorten your bumpstops beyond the standard JL length, and I wouldn't go shorter than 16.25" in the front and 16.75" in the rear for compressed lengths on your shocks since that won't be useable travel. My Jeep rides pretty well, but I wouldn't mind some more articulation. I was looking at the short body 12" Bilstein 7100s for the front since they have increased travel with about the same compressed length. I will need more modifications to accommodate additional down travel though both front and rear.

What it looks like stuffing 35" tires:

A picture of the rubbing:

 

[ASSFROW]

I'll help you out. My Jeep is a Sport with Rubicon axles for what it is worth with the factory non-extended bumpstops.

I am running stock Rubicon springs with the 0-1.5" Fox 2.0 IFP shocks (16.25 compressed/25.85 extended Front, 16.75 compressed/26.85 extended Rear), and the Mopar extended (1/4") front lowers on 35/12.50R17 Toyo M/Ts mounted on stock Sport wheels (17x7.5", +45mm offset).

Additionally, I am running the Motobilt high clearance inner fenders (MB1243 & MB1254) with KBD flares.

I get rubbing on the inner fenders fully flexed out, but it is 100% a wheel offset issue. There isn't much clearance at full bump for more bump travel even if the tire rubbing isn't an issue, so I would not shorten your bumpstops beyond the standard JL length, and I wouldn't go shorter than 16.25" in the front and 16.75" in the rear for compressed lengths on you shocks since that won't be useable travel. My Jeep rides pretty well, but I wouldn't mind some more articulation. I was looking at the short body 12" Bilstein 7100s for the front since they have increased travel with about the same compressed length. I will need more modifications to accommodate additional down travel though both front and rear.

What it looks like stuffing 35" tires:

A picture of the rubbing:

Thank you sir!!! Great info.

Sponsored