BROOX's 2DR Billet Silver Rubicon

[broox]

Quick update... I picked up the Rhino-Rack Vortex SG2 (SG59) drip rail roof racks to prepare for an upcoming snowboarding trip. They're not listed to fit the 2-door JL, but they fit just fine and look great!

There's no wind-noise at all, and the security screws offer a bit of peace of mind for parking in lots, etc... The only modification I'm thinking about making is cutting another half-inch off of the rear rail so that it will fit better when slid a little closer to the back end.

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[broox]

I threw on the Artec Industries JL bottle opener last week. Fun little upgrade. Ready to do some campin!

 

[broox]

To get ready for the warmer weather ahead, I splurged on a TopLift Pro Hardtop remover. Yes, it's way overpriced, but I have no regrets after assembling and using this thing. I was really impressed with the engineering, quality of materials, packaging, and the amount of detail in the instructions that I received.

To be able to add/remove my hardtop with no help in < 5 minutes, and then push it out of the way is priceless. Here are a few photos in action!

 

[jmm45]

To get ready for the warmer weather ahead, I splurged on a TopLift Pro Hardtop remover. Yes, it's way overpriced, but I have no regrets after assembling and using this thing. I was really impressed with the engineering, quality of materials, packaging, and the amount of detail in the instructions that I received.

To be able to add/remove my hardtop with no help in < 5 minutes, and then push it out of the way is priceless. Here are a few photos in action!

That garage tho...damn jealous of how clean it is!

 

[broox]

Gave the jeep a bath, stripped it down and finally got around to mounting my CMM doorless mirrors. I also threw on a fire extinguisher (with the Bartact rollbar mount) for ... safety. This vehicle is too fun.

 

[broox]

It took 2 drives to get annoyed by the slapping rear seatbelts with the Jeep in its first topless, doorless, summer mode. As soon as I got home from that second drive, I started googling and quickly ordered the SpiderWebShade seatbelt silencers.

While I waited for those to arrive, I tried a hack with some Velcro wire straps that I had laying around... Here's the hack. Just pull the belt down far enough to meet the little loop right below the tongue and then strap the belt it to the loop.

This worked surprisingly well and looked pretty clean too... It also would've saved me $30 if I would've just tried it first, heh.

Anyway, the Spider Web Shade silencers arrived really quickly and looked nice, strong, and clean... well, except for the gaudy "SPIDERWEBSHADE.COM" advertisement across them.

But luckily the badges were just stitched on and easy to remove... So, I immediately threw together some makeshift seam rippers and went to town.

Once I debadged the new silencers, I realized that my little velcro seatbelt hack was actually kind of a pain in the ass to remove... so that justified the cost of the spiderwebshades, I suppose. The spiderweb shade silencers are easier to use and also look really clean without that logo splattered across them. They work great too.

Now I just need to figure something out for the occasional front seatbelt flaps.

 

[broox]

I installed the pixeldecals fender vent blackout decals today and am super happy with them!

Step 1. Wipe down the vent area with straight alcohol to remove any wax, etc.

Step 2. Spray down the vent and both sides of the decal with the all-in-one solution. I used the leftover All-in-One solution from my R3 Hinge protector install and it worked great.

4oz. of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
12 oz. of Distilled Water
1 ml of Johnson's Baby Shampoo​

Step 3. Align, re-align, apply, slide, shift, re-align, peel, slide, and finally get it right.

Step 4. Use a squeegee (I used a cheap body-putty squeegee) with some clean microfiber cloth wrapped over it to work any bubbles and solution out. The microfiber cloth helps protect the decal so you don't scuff it up, and it also helps absorb the liquid that you're pulling out so it doesn't seep back in.

My only beef is that the decal is just a touch too short underneath the plastic vent. It just doesn't quite reach the fender...

 

[broox]

Over my COVID-19 quarantine, I threw together a door cart with some scrap wood, a furniture cart, and the Arc Off Road door hangers. The Arc hangers are totally overkill, but I bought em before deciding that I'd rather have my doors on a cart in my storage unit than on the wall in my garage...

The weight of the door is resting on the furniture dolly. The Arc hangers are simply there to keep the door in place. This keeps the cart from being too top heavy.

And here it sits next to my Top Lift Pro, freedom panels and back seat (in a christmas tree bag)...

 

[Varilux]

It took 2 drives to get annoyed by the slapping rear seatbelts with the Jeep in its first topless, doorless, summer mode. As soon as I got home from that second drive, I started googling and quickly ordered the SpiderWebShade seatbelt silencers.

Nice solution. I tried the Velcro option (which worked well). Eventually, I just became tired of seeing the belts back there- and my rear seat won't be going back in until 15 minutes before I drive it to the dealer to trade it in- so I finally just removed them all together- much cleaner look IMO (I keep every OEM part I take off in storage, so I can put anything I need to back on when I trade it in). I'm thinking the upper mount for the belt can be used to add an extinguisher or something useful....

Enjoying this thread, as it lets me see pretty much exactly what my Jeep would look like with what you're installing (great call on debadging those silencers- 100% better... it kills me how prominent after-market vendors make their badging on parts).

 

[jjgagne99]

I want to get these racks for my 2 door 2020 Wrangler Sport S. There is conflicting information on if I need SG59 or SG60. I’m thinking SG59 like you, Broox, because my gutters extend the length of the entire roof not just the removable freedom top panels like some 2 doors. Did the SG59’s fit no problem?
Did you use the labelled ‘front’ bar at the rear of the Jeep? I’d like to have about 30 inches between the bars to transport a kayak and the 18” spread of the SG60’s over only the front doors doesn’t seem to make much sense.

Quick update... I picked up the Rhino-Rack Vortex SG2 (SG59) drip rail roof racks to prepare for an upcoming snowboarding trip. They're not listed to fit the 2-door JL, but they fit just fine and look great!

There's no wind-noise at all, and the security screws offer a bit of peace of mind for parking in lots, etc... The only modification I'm thinking about making is cutting another half-inch off of the rear rail so that it will fit better when slid a little closer to the back end.

 

[broox]

Yep! The SG 59s fit no problem. The width of the roof gets narrower toward the back, so that's about as far back as the rear one can go... That said, I do wish the rear one was about 1/2" shorter so that I could slide it back a bit further. Since they're aluminum, I may just get a metal blade for my chop saw and cut a bit off.

 

[Blueeyedme]

Is there any difference between the SG59 & SG60 besides the bar length. I see the SG59 is 16mm longer on the front bar and 8mm longer on the rear bar. In the specs, the SG60 specifies a weight limitation of 88lbs. The SG59 doesn't mention anything. Also, how do you feel about having the front mount on your panels? Thanks!

 

[Boatbuilder88]

Yep! The SG 59s fit no problem. The width of the roof gets narrower toward the back, so that's about as far back as the rear one can go... That said, I do wish the rear one was about 1/2" shorter so that I could slide it back a bit further. Since they're aluminum, I may just get a metal blade for my chop saw and cut a bit off.

I just found this build thread and am following.

I want to install this rack on the rear section of the Wrangler JL 2-door hardtop (NOT on the freedom panels) with maximum front-to-rear bar spread on the rear section. The Rhino Rack website indicates that the two versions of this rack have different length bars.

• SG59: Fr - 1272mm, Rr - 1291mm
• SG60: Fr - 1256mm, Rr - 1283mm

Do you think reversing the bars (moving the front SG59 bar to the rear) would work for my needs? Or would the shorter SG60 bars be better?

Thanks!

 

[broox]

@Boatbuilder88 Honestly, the SG60 might be a better fit all around. Mine do press against the outer edge of the drip rail in all configurations that I’ve tried. With only 8-16mm difference, I’d think that you could get a tighter fit with the SG60s.

Here’s a photo of the longer SG59 rail in front and shorter in the back without using the freedom panels. They’re not torqued down in the photo, but they do fit in this configuration.

 

[Boatbuilder88]

@Boatbuilder88 Honestly, the SG60 might be a better fit all around. Mine do press against the outer edge of the drip rail in all configurations that I’ve tried. With only 8-16mm difference, I’d think that you could get a tighter fit with the SG60s.

Here’s a photo of the longer SG59 rail in front and shorter in the back without using the freedom panels. They’re not torqued down in the photo, but they do fit in this configuration.

Thanks for testing this out for me! Really appreciate it.

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