Broken front locker connector.

Yankee1019

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From the pictures this looks like a 4-way Hirschmann Sealstar 1.2 series connector (Code B). The Hirschmann part number is 805-122-542. I don't know the numbers for the terminals or the backseals for the connector. I attached the spec. drawing.

Edit: The TE (TE Connectivity) MCON 1.2 series of connectors SHOULD be compatible but I can't confirm that. The TE part number would be 2-1718645-1. I also included the spec. drawing for this one.

Edit2: All of the connector components should be available from Mouser. Links below. I'm still looking for what would be the correct cable/wire seals but haven't had any luck with that yet.

Connector
Terminals

Found the right ones.
Wire Seals
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DrGroovenstein

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Thank you, that is a good option if I can't find an OEM pigtail. I haven't set terminals like that before, so I'd have see what tool is needed to do that.
 

911turboz

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So as a resolution here, and hopefully some reads this when they do it, because its an easy mistake to make.

The issue for me was no slacking the line pulled one of the 4 pins out of the connector.

The fix is to gently pry apart the connector cover, pup up the little top piece that holds the pins in place, slide the pin back into it's socket, then you place the cover back over it and plug it back in.




Once I pulled the cover off the missing pin popped right up.
IMG_20180708_115656.jpg


Here is a side view of the cover you need to pup up to slide the pin back in place.
IMG_20180708_115728.jpg


all pins back in place with stops up.
IMG_20180708_115918.jpg


Then just close everything back up.

IMG_20180708_115650 (1).jpg
What is the wiring color sequence? Hard to tell after the pink on left what the combos are on the next 3
 

engineXI

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I'm trying to avoid the same issue the OP had. I also didn't want to just brute force the connector out. The little white tab on the top, is it a press, pull, lift, or squeeze type of connector tab?
0099888.jpg
 

Yankee1019

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I'm trying to avoid the same issue the OP had. I also didn't want to just brute force the connector out. The little white tab on the top, is it a press, pull, lift, or squeeze type of connector tab?
0099888.jpg
The little locking tab needs to be pulled out before you can disconnect it. Once the locking tab is pulled out (not removed) you can use is as the squeeze point release the connector from the receptacle.... It is possible that it will still be difficult to remove....
 
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