Brake pads JL Sport ‘21

[eureka]

They don't use grease from the factory, only the dry black coating. So you won't see any.

If I ask at dealership will they do that complimentary for me?

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[limeade]

If I ask at dealership will they do that complimentary for me?

That depends on the relationship you have with your dealership's service department. They may do it in the course of inspecting the brakes for the noise. I wouldn't count on it though, especially if their repair guides don't instruct them to.

 

[missionale]

my brakes and others occasionally squeak while backing up - usually after sitting overnight and after raining/moist conditions. It's a normal sound from the pad/rotor interaction and goes away. The only item that will tell you that a pad change is required is by measuring the pad - easy to do and a good easy introduction to a DIY project - I taught my Son to change out pads when he was 12 - I know a little late in life but better then than never -

 

[JasonInDLH]

As stated previously, a bit of lubricant on the pad hardware and guide pins should take care of the squeaking. I use 3M Copper Anti-Seize on the pad hardware and 3M Clear Silicone paste on the guide pins.

 

[JasonInDLH]

Including a bit of anti-seize where the piston presses against the pad backing plate.

 

[jjvincent]

The only lube needed are on the guide pins. I guarantee they are lubed from the factory. As for the rest, never use any lube whatsoever. There's a reason why OEM's do not use lube. It's because it's not needed. Lube was all the rage back when we banned asbestos pads and thus, brakes at the time squealed. So, everyone slathered them up with lube. It's an old school practice that for some reason, some still do. Just like using valve grinding compound when doing a valve job.

Lube makes matters worse as it collects all of the dust and road grime. Pads get jammed up in the caliper carrier. I see it all of the time because I change thousands of brakes per year. Squealing is from either a bad pad compound or vehicles that sit for long periods of time. Never from not adding lube. Plus your pads have squealers. Thus when they get to 2mm, they will squeal initially upon brake application. Soon after, squeal all of the time. Thus driving you nuts and you either bring it in to check it out or drive it unil there's no pad left and it becomes grinding. If in the winter and you live in a place that uses salt, the wheels will start to look like rust and in some cases, the side of the car.

 

[jjvincent]

On the other hand, you could be like me. Jeep left off some parts for the parking brake on the RR. Thus my parking brake never worked right. Initially I adjusted it and it was better. Second time I pulled the rotor and discovered some missing parts. Installed them and readjusted. Problem solved. Never made a squeal but was a QC issue. My jeep was either made on a Friday, before a holiday or before a plant strike. As the QC on it was a mess. Even down to the various fasteners rattling around on the floor as there were a number of extras that the factory left in there.

 

[JasonInDLH]

The only lube needed are on the guide pins. I guarantee they are lubed from the factory. As for the rest, never use any lube whatsoever. There's a reason why OEM's do not use lube. It's because it's not needed. Lube was all the rage back when we banned asbestos pads and thus, brakes at the time squealed. So, everyone slathered them up with lube. It's an old school practice that for some reason, some still do. Just like using valve grinding compound when doing a valve job.

Lube makes matters worse as it collects all of the dust and road grime. Pads get jammed up in the caliper carrier. I see it all of the time because I change thousands of brakes per year. Squealing is from either a bad pad compound or vehicles that sit for long periods of time. Never from not adding lube. Plus your pads have squealers. Thus when they get to 2mm, they will squeal initially upon brake application. Soon after, squeal all of the time. Thus driving you nuts and you either bring it in to check it out or drive it unil there's no pad left and it becomes grinding. If in the winter and you live in a place that uses salt, the wheels will start to look like rust and in some cases, the side of the car.

First I’ve heard of this. I’ve always used a bit of copper anti seize on the brake hardware and where the piston meets the pad backing plate. In fact, all my brakes have come with a little tube of lube to do so (I still opt for the copper stuff). Curious…if it’s not needed, then why do brake companies still include it in their sets?

 

[JasonInDLH]

And it makes sense to me to use a bit of lube on metal on metal contact (ie brake hardware) especially where it’s moving against each other.

I would love to stop using that messy copper anti-seize, so I hope you (or someone else) can talk me into not using it!

 

[jjvincent]

Curious…if it’s not needed, then why do brake companies still include it in their sets?

It's because many brake pad manufacturers do not include hardware. Plus, people usually just change the pads and never take off the caliper carrier.

For me what I do on customer cars:
Remove calipers and carriers
Take carriers over to the workbench
Mount them up in the vice, remove old hardware
Hand wire brush the carrier
Install new hardware and pads
Remove caliper pins and inspect the boots
Clean off pins and add lube
Reinstall pins
Remove rotor and wire brush off the mating surface on the hub
Push back pistons and check the boots. Sometimes relieve air that gets built up in the boots
Reinstall everything

So far, no comebacks and I only lube on the pins. If it was needed, then I'd do it. So far, no need.

 

[jjvincent]

And it makes sense to me to use a bit of lube on metal on metal contact (ie brake hardware) especially where it’s moving against each other.

I would love to stop using that messy copper anti-seize, so I hope you (or someone else) can talk me into not using it!

I ask you this, why don't OEM's use it? You'd think that at least in high end cars that they would, yet they do not. If I buy a $170K Porsche 992 GT3, it has zero lube on the brakes. You'd think that out of all companies, Porsche would lube up the pads, yet they don't. Is it because of a cost cutting measure? Seems odd that they would cut costs there. A few dabs of lube on the pad contact areas on a supercar would be in order, yet they do not.

I could see why Jeep would not do it as they are always trying to cut corners. For a high end Porsche? Makes no sense. I think it's because the Porsche engineers don't read the forums and need to be updated on what to actually do when it comes to brakes. As we all know, Porsche is known for having the worst brakes on the planet............

 

[Shibadog]

Once I heard like a razor blade noise. I did one difficult trail. I need to go back to dealership to do some diagnostics anyhow, I may want to use that time to ask about the noise. If I ask them to look for rust deposits will the laugh at me? I’m a newbie don’t know much. One dealership told me that brake pads in Jeeps worn out fast, but not sure if he was right. Yeah 10k sounds like to early for new brake pads, but I’m no specialist.

You may just have some crud on the rotor or between the pads and the rotor. Brakes should NOT be an issue for a LOT of miles. My Ram’s got 82 k on the original pads, Wife’s Touareg has 103k, original pads. Both are checked regularly (in all fairness most are highway miles).

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