Brainstorming: the ultimate JLUR on 35s

[mayoJames]

I post because it seems like anyone covering all the bases on a rubicon build goes for 37s just because they can. I cant really find much info on anyone doing a complete build on 35s.
I have wheeled anything I wanted in Colorado, Moab, and Sedona stock with a winch. I bought 35 inch toyo M/T since I do not think I need 37s.
I need help envisioning what I should do.
I want more than a budget boost lift, but i don't need full long arm like the 37s people. I might need gear but want to hear peoples experience (manual transmission). It seems like anyone on 35s just does it cheaply and is done. I want a more complete build on 35s.

Opinions? Experience?

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[oceanblue2019]

Any good quality 2.5 lift kit is a good starting point.

 

[Engine Guy]

I have a MetalCloak 2.5" Game Changer suspension kit and just fitted 315/70R17 BFG KO2s. I wheeled the OEM 285/70R17s at Ouray this summer and did great. The 315s may buy me a bit more capability in the East Coast conditions.

I have only driven it for a few days but I don't feel the need to re-gear. It feels slightly slower, but not a big enough thing that most people would notice.

Hope this helps!

 

[jhackathorne]

I’m in same boat mostly. Didn’t want to run 37’s for cost/potential regearing. I’m running 2” Synergy Stage 1 lift on 315’s which is pretty complete and happy with it. Didn’t want to go with any of the 2.5” lifts as they’re netting 3” or so depending on build. MC 2.5” is based on a fully loaded rig and I believe AEV/RK are the same. I do have steel bumper group, winch, and adding skids when it warms up. In summer I run a RTT and can barely tell I’m under load with all the gear once fully packed up.

Running this setup I’m confident I can handle pretty much any trail except extreme rated ones. I have ran trails all over CO and Moab and had no issues with my old JK that was similar lift and 34’s. So the 35’s and lift are plenty.

 

[JasonInDLH]

I post because it seems like anyone covering all the bases on a rubicon build goes for 37s just because they can. I cant really find much info on anyone doing a complete build on 35s.
I have wheeled anything I wanted in Colorado, Moab, and Sedona stock with a winch. I bought 35 inch toyo M/T since I do not think I need 37s.
I need help envisioning what I should do.
I want more than a budget boost lift, but i don't need full long arm like the 37s people. I might need gear but want to hear peoples experience (manual transmission). It seems like anyone on 35s just does it cheaply and is done. I want a more complete build on 35s.

Opinions? Experience?

I hear a lot of people running the Metal Cloak lift and they like it. I opted for the AEV DualSport 2.5 on my JLUR with 35’s. I purchased an additional JKS adjustable front trac bar to recenter the axle. Works fantastic with simple trails around here and I’m sure it would work fantastic on serious trails (if we had them here and if I didn’t care about bumps and scratches)

 

[redracer]

I did a MetalCloak 2.5 dual rate kit and wheeled another year with the stock 33's before putting on 35's. My biggest unknown was wheel backspacing. Metalcloak states a minimum backspacing with their kits, but that includes non-rubicon wide axles. I ended up with going to 0 offset Method 701s and Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ P3s in 315/70r17. There is still only slight rubbing on the sway bar ends when fully crossed up and turning hard.

I couldn't be happier with this setup. It does great on the hardest of trails. But, it's also still very comfortable on the road. So much so that for new years I put 1,000 miles on it with the family and then this last weekend we put in another 500 miles in one day.

 

[vegasblue]

Well. It depends on how far you want to go. After research I didn't go with a 3.5" lift because "it will look goofy". I don't know honestly if that is sound or not. I ran 37" tires on my JKU and it changed everything on the Jeep and I didn't care for it. This JLUR is my daily, but I wanted to be able to use it as intended. I also wanted to stick with a 35" tire for the time being. I love the way it drives on the road. Off road, well, I'd always love more travel. I love this setup because it's stone silent. I can't stand squeeking. I may jump to 3.5" and stay 35". Not sure yet.

2.5" Clayton Overland
Fox 2.0 shocks (dist. chain dictated this)
35x12x17 Mickey Thompson M/T (Load Range D, wearing GREAT!)
Metalcloak Fenders and Sliders
Metalcloak Full Skidplates
Rusty's front and rear bumpers

 

[hockeynut258]

I’m putting together a MC 3.5” lift with Bilstein 8100 shocks and 35” tires. The 8100’s require 3-4.5” lift and I want to maximize up travel, limit overall lift height and maintain durability. My new JLUR this will go on will have the factory 4.88 gears.

After seeing some mopar lifts and 35’s that were raised 4-5” over my current stock JLUR, figured the MC 3.5” on 35’s would look similar and those didn’t look awkward.

No hands on experience yet but the parts are in my garage.

 

[Mikester86]

2020 JLUR with a Rancho 2” Sport lift with their 9000 adjustable shocks, Rancho front and rear adjustable track bars and I opted for Rancho’s geometry correction brackets instead of lower adjustable control arms. Running 35x11.5x17 Toyo AT3’s. This is my daily driver and weekend warrior vehicle, this setup works awesome for us.
@wibornz runs the same lift and wheels the hell out of his rig!

 

[wibornz]

I would tell you there is no reason to spend huge money on a lift . The Rancho lift is $750 the last time I looked and has adjustable shocks. I have 63,000 miles on the lift and wheel it all over the place. Note I do run 37s, but it would still look good with 35s. It is a 2 in lift. Rides great and flex’s great.

 

[Themistocles]

So for the "ultimate" JLUR on 35's below would be the direction I would go:

1. Good 2.5 inch suspension
2. Full aluminum belly armor
3. Onboard air (ARB dual)
4. Front and rear inner fenders
5. Fender liners stripped with brace
6. Warn Zeon 10S winch
7. Good lighting with mix of floods, driving, and rock lights
8. Reid knuckles
9. Yeti drag link and tie rod
10. RCVs
11. Good steel rock rails
12. Aluminum front and rear bumpers (save weight)
13. Yeti sector shaft brace
14. Extended kevlar or braided stainless brake line
15. Synergy e-brake cable relocation bracket
16. Tailgate hinge reinforcement or bumper mounted swing arm
17. Recovery and medical gear on board
18. Good adjustable 2.5 inch shocks (probably Radflo or Fox)
19. Air bumps on front
20. Limiting straps set for 1/4 inch from max shock extension
21. Front and rear trussed axle housing
22. Dual batteries

That to me is pretty close. I did not include new front and rear ends (Dana 60s), new engine, new trans or transfer case, new frame etc because on 35s they are not really critical in my opinion, and once you start replacing big parts like that, to me, it is no longer the original build...it is a new custom vehicle...amazing capability and cool builds, but really no longer a JLUR.

 

[Buddy Lee]

I am also a fan of running 35" tires, as I feel they are the best all around option. I currently have a Metal Cloak 3.5" lift with the front geometry correction brackets. I use my Jeep for overlanding but have no problems playing on the trails. The 35" tires work great even with the brackets, which I have yet to hit. I will stick with the 35" size.

 

[MtCamper]

I just wanted to keep up with the 2 doors I wheel with and I'm pretty frugal. OK maybe even pretty cheap. I went with the Rancho 2.5 puck lift with correct length Bilsteins. Rockhard aluminum front bumper and rock rails. Full steel armor. 315 KO2s from a Raptor with stock wheels. Steel Tyger rear bumper and muffler delete. I can keep up and it's still a comfortable daily driver.

 

[GATORB8]

I’m putting together a MC 3.5” lift with Bilstein 8100 shocks and 35” tires. The 8100’s require 3-4.5” lift and I want to maximize up travel, limit overall lift height and maintain durability. My new JLUR this will go on will have the factory 4.88 gears.

After seeing some mopar lifts and 35’s that were raised 4-5” over my current stock JLUR, figured the MC 3.5” on 35’s would look similar and those didn’t look awkward.

No hands on experience yet but the parts are in my garage.

They don’t require a set lift, they require a set bump stop. At 18.22” front compressed, you’ll need 2” bumps. You’ll be right at max extension for the stock DS so you’ll want to watch it if you wheel hard.
Edit, note rereading, the 2” bumps can include however much you get form the factory XR bump extensions.

 

[GATORB8]

I post because it seems like anyone covering all the bases on a rubicon build goes for 37s just because they can. I cant really find much info on anyone doing a complete build on 35s.
I have wheeled anything I wanted in Colorado, Moab, and Sedona stock with a winch. I bought 35 inch toyo M/T since I do not think I need 37s.
I need help envisioning what I should do.
I want more than a budget boost lift, but i don't need full long arm like the 37s people. I might need gear but want to hear peoples experience (manual transmission). It seems like anyone on 35s just does it cheaply and is done. I want a more complete build on 35s.

Opinions? Experience?

Remember there’s more to lift height than tire clearance. It improves your approach, BO and departure angles.

Also, flex isn’t really related to the ride height, it’s determined by bump stop and shock extension.

Something to watch, some lifts with arms are not clearanced for higher backspacing, so that may influence your decision.

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