Body bolts and how not to break them.

[DocTwinkie]

Just an update for folks doing installs where you have to loosen body bolts. There are many horror stories on the forum of broken bolts due to the loctite. I’d also say due to over torquing at the factory (supposed to be 80ft-lbs.

I used the mini ductor 2 induction bolt heater. Loctite need 550 degrees to melt.

Run the bolt heater about 30sec until just starting to glow then give 30sec off. I repeated this about 4x per bolt (6 on the front which have red loctite). this allowed the heat to conduct up the bolt.

I used a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench. I had no creaking or popping. Just a smooth loosening. Wear leather gloves since the bolt will be hot and that heat will go into your socket and bar.

I repeated the process to tighten them as the loctite will reset and torque to 80ft-lbs. The loctite will reset once cooled.

Lots of folks just break them free which is fine most of the time but it’s a gamble. A torch can be used if that’s your jam but it’s outside my comfort level. The bolt heater will help later for any rusted or seized bolts on later installs.

Hope this helps folks.

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[sf5211]

Just an update for folks doing installs where you have to loosen body bolts. There are many horror stories on the forum of broken bolts due to the loctite. I’d also say due to over torquing at the factory (supposed to be 80ft-lbs.

I used the mini ductor 2 induction bolt heater. Loctite need 550 degrees to melt.

Run the bolt heater about 30sec until just starting to glow then give 30sec off. I repeated this about 4x per bolt (6 on the front which have red loctite). this allowed the heat to conduct up the bolt.

I used a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench. I had no creaking or popping. Just a smooth loosening. Wear leather gloves since the bolt will be hot and that heat will go into your socket and bar.

I repeated the process to tighten them as the loctite will reset and torque to 80ft-lbs. The loctite will reset once cooled.

Lots of folks just break them free which is fine most of the time but it’s a gamble. A torch can be used if that’s your jam but it’s outside my comfort level. The bolt heater will help later for any rusted or seized bolts on later installs.

Hope this helps folks.

Wow Doc, thanks for the education and the info on the tool. Watched a video, that tool is awesome.

 

[DocTwinkie]

One thing I’ll add is that the sleeve on the tool will get hot but doesn’t show it so you gotta be careful when you set it down. It cools really quick but I set it down right next to some electrical tape and melted it. Whoops. Lol.

 

[Andy-jr.]

I have never seen one of those tools before. It definitely looks like something I would add to the tool box.

 

[Papi4baby]

A heat gun will work just as well if you already have one.

 

[RSK]

A heat gun will work just as well if you already have one.

Or.....


https://www.walmart.com/ip/GrillPro-Electric-Charcoal-Lighter/21799548

 

[DocTwinkie]

Miniductor is good quality. Made in USA. I personally am not comfortable with torches and lighters as even a bic can get over 3k degrees and that heat goes everywhere.

heat guns can hit 1k or so but again heat goes everywhere and I’ve seen some write ups that they still popped and creaked after using them. How much of that heat makes it to the bolt I don’t know and you need the end to hit 550 degrees.

So lighter and torch will absolutely do the job if you’re comfortable you won’t do collateral damage. Heat gun would be worth an experiment to see how long you’d have to heat the bolt to get the other end 550. I’d bet a long long time.

This was a neat tool in that I could heat the bolt head cherry red in about 30sec and there’s no collateral heat only the bolt is hot.

 

[DocTwinkie]

Don't disagree with any of that...just saying I personally wouldn't spend $330 on a tool for this particular job since I usually would handle such a situation with some other more versatile tool.

That said, the problem is the design by Jeep. Having the bolt thread up instead of feed in from the cab with the nut on the bottom is beyond stupid.

If I already had this tool or envisioned repeatedly working with similarly poorly designed fastener interfaces, $330 would make total sense. Luckily, this design isn't common.

I second that completely. If you have comfort with an alternative I would absolutely not drop $330.

I was stuck between this and having a shop do it for $400 labor. So it seemed like a good reason to add a tool.

But totally agree that if you have another means you’re comfortable with save the cash. Also agree the design was lousy and they were all waaaaay overtorqued.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I’ve sworn off jobs that involve working with the body bolts but I might order this and give it at try. One broken body bolt would be a significant headache I didn’t want to deal with.

Brett

 

[vavaroutsos]

Miniductor is good quality. Made in USA. I personally am not comfortable with torches and lighters as even a bic can get over 3k degrees and that heat goes everywhere.

heat guns can hit 1k or so but again heat goes everywhere and I’ve seen some write ups that they still popped and creaked after using them. How much of that heat makes it to the bolt I don’t know and you need the end to hit 550 degrees.

So lighter and torch will absolutely do the job if you’re comfortable you won’t do collateral damage. Heat gun would be worth an experiment to see how long you’d have to heat the bolt to get the other end 550. I’d bet a long long time.

This was a neat tool in that I could heat the bolt head cherry red in about 30sec and there’s no collateral heat only the bolt is hot.

The Miniductor is made in China, see here and here.

IMHO it's safer to use an impact wrench, perhaps with a torque stick, than a breaker bar. The impact wrench is less likely to turn the fastener to the yield point.

 

[DocTwinkie]

The Miniductor is made in China, see here and here.

IMHO it's safer to use an impact wrench, perhaps with a torque stick, than a breaker bar. The impact wrench is less likely to turn the fastener to the yield point.

According to their website USA. Also stamped USA. So unless there’s some serious false advertising.

https://www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools-about

 

[Dkretden]

OP, thanks for posting your experiences. Good info.

that said, for me, $330 plus $90 for bolt size kit, for a tool that has limited uses is a lot of cash. I would just rather stay away from those bolts.

 

[calin]

Just an update for folks doing installs where you have to loosen body bolts. There are many horror stories on the forum of broken bolts due to the loctite. I’d also say due to over torquing at the factory (supposed to be 80ft-lbs.

I used the mini ductor 2 induction bolt heater. Loctite need 550 degrees to melt.

Run the bolt heater about 30sec until just starting to glow then give 30sec off. I repeated this about 4x per bolt (6 on the front which have red loctite). this allowed the heat to conduct up the bolt.

I used a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench. I had no creaking or popping. Just a smooth loosening. Wear leather gloves since the bolt will be hot and that heat will go into your socket and bar.

I repeated the process to tighten them as the loctite will reset and torque to 80ft-lbs. The loctite will reset once cooled.

Lots of folks just break them free which is fine most of the time but it’s a gamble. A torch can be used if that’s your jam but it’s outside my comfort level. The bolt heater will help later for any rusted or seized bolts on later installs.

Hope this helps folks.

will this tool (only $189), do the same thing?

 

[calin]

will this tool (only $189), do the same thing?

forgot the link

https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magne...dc5dd&pd_rd_wg=SOZvc&pd_rd_i=B0851C6Q22&psc=1

 

[DocTwinkie]

forgot the link

https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magne...dc5dd&pd_rd_wg=SOZvc&pd_rd_i=B0851C6Q22&psc=1

Should.

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